themaninthesuitcase

I still need to sort through the images before I can send them to LMO.

Welcome to the FISD!

Just added a minor tweak to the wording to match how the Night trooper CRL handles the cracking. No changes to requirements, just how it's worded.

I'll leave this to the DO's but that sole and heel look a bit too chunky IMO. Not an issue at basic, but for Lvl3 I think there are better options available.

Sounds like we just drop that requirement, and member can replicate as they choose. Just had a look at this is from the R1 CRL based on : So it more if you have a white end you need a grey insert, but if it's all grey it's all grey and so would be fine.

Confirmed: Tobias @TK-Pilot 28112 - TK 28112 - Basic 1pt Pascal @Kalle - TK-92227 - Basic 1pt Jannis @Flensburg_Trooper - TK-29073 - Basic 1pt Torben @Tall_Trooper - TK-19525 - EIB #1085 - 2pts 5 points total. Congratulations on Apprentice Armorer!

Thank you to all of you who have contributed to the forum. It really does help and means we can keep helping troopers.

Sounds like we just drop that requirement, and member can replicate as they choose. Non-Saga is the terminology LMO will want us to use, I guess adding (Rogue One) can happen though. As far as I am aware all of the night troopers are R1 armour, and certainly all of the primary reference is so I feel mandating it is correct.

Oops will fix that, I remember that and thought I’d left it in. It is there, lvl 3 as it was in the original. All the others have been addressed. Biggest change was moving the cracking text into general so it's not constantly repeated, though shoulders explicitly say no cracking. Blaster flashlight added "if fitted" as per original. Belt updated to match the current R1 CRL.

Oops will fix that, I remember that and thought I’d left it in. Remember these build up. Level 1 paint. Level 2 engraved. Level 3 gold colored lead (ie it doesn’t have to be real gold but has to be leaf) I am going to move it into General rather than on every single item and try phrase it better. They used quite a few blasters as shown in Glen's thread here I think I just copied this from the R1 CRL so will compare the 2 again and work out what to do. Will update to match Will remove but as it will be in general maybe say NO cracking.

Thanks. I'll try find some time to go through them all and match them up to the CRL needs. Just for awareness there are some issues with the CRL system, which is being resolved, but not sure on lead times for some of this with the LMO.

I've taken the earlier post, and updated it to be more in line with Enoch. Nothing has changed from a requirements standpoint, just the wording to get there. Before I nuke the old one can some one proof read and make sure I've not made any mistakes. Few notes: "non saga" is the terminology LMO want to use to represent the new R1/Kenobi/Andor/etc armour. I've added "Grey elements can do not have to match an exact trooper but should be consistent with screen references." as it lets people try and be a little creative but not run too wild. If something is in lv2 it's not in lv3 as these are cumulative. "Weathering details, Gold and gray adornments etc to be added." was all over the CRL so have been removed and are covered by general now to save copy pasting all over the place. Might be worth bringing the cracking painted/engraved/gold into general as well to save that being on everything (and do the same in Enoch) Doing this would probably make this CRL almost the same as the R1 one but with a little more top detail and different images. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. General Construction Notes Amour must be based on the Non-Saga armor, ANH, ESB or ROTJ armour or similar may not be used. All armor must have light to medium weathering as per reference images. All damage must be consistent with screen references. Grey elements can do not have to match an exact trooper but should be consistent with screen references. Red fabric wrapping must be dark red in color, rough torn and applied consistent with screen reference. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface, gold paint may be used. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cracks are filled with gold or gold colored leaf. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 9 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. Green LED that can be switched on and off representing both living and the resurrected Night trooper shall be fitted behind the lenses. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. There is no cracking applied. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Cod Armor The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate. The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Posterior Armor The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Belt The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The belt overlaps on the sides. There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm. All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Note: the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight, if fitted, shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

Greetings Troopers, This year we're going to be focusing on some CRL clean up work. First up is the First Order Stormtroopers, of which we currently have 6 (Phasma: TFA, Phasma: TLJ, Pyre, TFA, TLJ//TROS, Executioner: TLJ) and all of them have the images for the "Back/Yoke" where they show the "rams horn" style rather than a more accurate full chest. Whilst this is not a clearance issue as it's not visible, it would be good to update these to be more accurate where possible. I have also heard of builders removing the accurate middle section to match the CRL images which makes them less accurate and generally makes life harder for the builder too. As both are acceptable, and kits may come with either we may leave both in the final update to try and reduce confusion. If you have any of the these listed suits and are able to supply a new set of images as below we will be able to update our CRL images. CRLs required: Captain Phasma : TFA Captain Phasma: TLJ Commander Pyre Stormtrooper: TFA Stormtrooper: TLJ/TROS Stormtrooper Executioner: TLJ

I'd argue that more suits where "lived in" than super clean but it's been a while since I watched R1.

Welcome to FISD!

Welcome to the FISD. In the links above make sure you read the thread on who to avoid when buying your amour. This can save you a lot of heart ache later.

Hi, Some are okay but some are probably a bit too far off angle wise. If you have a look at this CRL which is essentially the same armour you should get a good idea of the framing and angles we need. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rogue_one It also helps if you can use a contrasting background which makes it easier to cut the parts out. Ideally this would be a blue or green screen but essentially anything that contrasts well to the armour will help.

Welcome to the FISD!

Looks like a great build. I look forward to the DOs comments. The CRL text was written prior to the Enoch CRL which has had a bit more work since. Whilst I doubt much will change in a substantial way I do want to go over this CRL and update some of the wording to be more consistent with Enoch.

Welcome to the FISD Peter!

Thank you to all of you. Even a small donation makes a difference and means we can keep this place running.

An iPhone speaker? In a blaster? Madness surely? No, and you can blame model train people. I just stole it from them. To an extent a speaker is a speaker is a speaker. There's a few things you need to know about. One is the impedance measured in ohms (Ω) and the other one is wattage. When you drive the speaker most drivers will state what impedance they need, and how many watts they put out. So something like "4-8Ω 3W", which is what's on the driver I am using. You'll also find that most of these will put out more power, and so be louder, at the lower impedance so you want to shoot for 4 if you can. For this one it's 3W at 4ohms and only 1.8 at 8ohms. So with that in mind on to the speaker. I am using a speaker for an iPhone 8 plus, but anything in the iPhone 5-8 range is all similar in size for a give phone class (e.g. normal vs the larger plus models). These came from AliExpress and are quite affordable, I got a 5 pack for £2.93 (with free postage as I made my order over £8 to qualify for choice). I went with the bigger speaker as I have room, and in general bigger is better with speakers. If space is limited get a non-plus speaker and it will be around half the size but volume will probably suffer. The specs on these online are sparse so first job is to work out what impedance these are. Using a multi meter over the 2 contacts (not photos sorry those pins are tiny and needs both hands) and I got about 8.7 ohms. This is DC resistance, which isn't the same as impedance but close enough. 8 ohm speakers. We don't know what wattage they will take but the train people seem to drive them hard, but if yours blows up then sorry no warrantee here. But we want 4ohms for maximum loud from our pew pew so how do we do that. We use 2 speakers, and wire them in parallel. Thanks to physics 2 speakers (resistors) in parallel make a smaller one. I won't cover the maths but simply if you have 2 of the same resistance in parallel you halve the resistance. So our 8 ohm speakers will be one 4 ohm one once wired up. Now on how to do it. If you've got a different speaker, you're on your own but basically join both of + sides together and both of the - sides together. None of of this is marked, so just join them "the same" on each. If you don't it will work but the speakers will be backwards to each other and sound awful and weak (they will be out of phase). This is how I did it: First the speakers have a few bits of plastic sticking out so those where trimmed with a pair of flush cutters. This isn't 100% needed but makes the package tidier. In order to parallel the speakers I decided to "piggy back them". So started by picking one speaker and bending out the contacts so they stuck straight out and so would fit over the side of the lower speaker. I then stacked the speakers. Due to the shape I sandwiched in a bit of 1.5mm HIPS I had lying around to pack out the air gap. With them carefully positioned so that the bent leg touched the unbent leg on the lower speaker, I applied a tiny bit of flux from a flux pen and tack soldered one side, then the same on the other side. Now things where stable I applied a little more solder to make the joint more solid. Care is needed here, these are small pins and you also don't want to cook the speaker by applying too much heat for too long. To attach the leads I pre soldered (aka tinned) both the wire and the connections again with some flux. This means the join is just a case of holding the wire in place and re-heating which makes the whole process far easier, but was still fiddly. I did add a touch more solder but this is probably unnecessary. At this point it's probably wise to test things. Hook it up make sure it works and sounds good. All okay, then you can move on. If not check things like you haven't created a short or melted the speaker by checking the resistance across the speaker if you have a meter, you're looking for something like 4-5 ohms of DC resistance. Things work but are fragile so lets try add some strength. First grab som 2-3mm heat shrink about 2-3cm long and slide it over the leads and slide it up close as you can whilst still being gentle. Ideally use a heat gun to shrink this in a more controlled manor than a lighter. Next we want to glue things in place to further strengthen things. You can use hot glue if you want, but this can be messy so I went with 8 year old E6000 as I had some left and seemed perfect for the job. This looks messy but the E6000 self levelled quickly and looked a lot cleaner. We want to glue the contacts, and also the wire it's self so hopefully there will be no strain on the contacts. Really you should now wait 12 hours or so for the glue to go off, but I am lazy and wanted it done. The final step in adding strength is more heat shrink. I want to say this was in the region of 13mm dia but may have been more like 15mm. I just grabbed some the right size from my stash. Cut a bit the right length to cover the whole assembly and shrink down again. And you're all done. Here is a comparison vs the typical 28mm speaker people generally use in blasters and lightsabres. It's a a little bigger but I think the shape means it will fit inside a blaster a bit easier and be less awkward to mount. It also sounds significantly nicer.

This is the sort of thing we love on the forum. You've clearly spent a good amount of time gathering resources and documenting the build, having it on the forum makes it available to anyone who's working on a build.

LMO have now ratified, so have sent them an email for a go/no go on this one.

Looks fantastic. That chrome is such a different look! Or at least it was until that pesky mando showed up.