themaninthesuitcase

Welcome back trooper!

Welcome to the FISD!

A small fabric sample came, plenty enough for 2-3 chest plates. I got this based on some images I've seen of what others appear to be using. Image on some a black fabric, with some white paper for contrast. Does this look about right? I'll back it with some black cloth, and then attach it behind the pills.

As time allows I've been working on a 3D moddled version of the rails for the forearms that allow for the correct hex head screw. I used the DN part as a guide for size and replicated them bar the 1 bump where the screw will go. I don't plan to go whole hog and do a full length part that goes under the wrist box but who knows what the future holds. I know this isn't the right screw but it's the only one I had to hand that was the right size. I'll order some plan hex heads later. On first testing I realised the offset alignment block means that on one side it fits will and on the other it creates a bad fit. So I created 2 mirrored rails to fit on the respective forearm. I got to learn some fun Fusion tricks with parameters so I only have 1 model, and just change between L and R and it updates the alignment and the engraving to ensure I know which is which. I have also been progressing on the armour and have had some deliveries to cover but I'll do that in a different post.

OOOF that's a big bed. The TD looks great, and is probably a nice piece to learn on. Nothing too exotic to discourage you. You've clearly thought a lot about printability as well. So many models don't and then need tons of support and look bad. I'd rather print 5 parts and glue them than deal with loads of support. After you mentioned it before I've printed a SE-44C in ASA. It's really good, even the super cheap stuff prints well (enough anyway). The parts sand nicely compare to PLA and PETG and also I was able to make a slurry to fix a bit on one part where the support didn't quite work as well as hoped. Also seems for the most part support comes off pretty cleanly and easily.

Greetings troopers, Now the term is in full swing we are looking to update some of the CRLs and need you to help us with this. On all of our First Order CRLs you will see an image like this: The "rams horns" are not accurate as we now know and there are now more accurate armors out there. We would like to update all, or at least as many as we can with the correct full fronted one. Not only is this more accurate but it can stop any confusion with members building who think that they may need to remove the front plate. We will not be changing the CRL wording for those kits where this is not possible, only the image to better guide troopers. We would need images to cover : TK - Stormtrooper: The Force Awakens TK - Stormtrooper: The Last Jedi The above two be the same image. TK - Stormtrooper: The Last Jedi Executioner TK - Captain Phasma: The Force Awakens TK - Captain Phasma: The Last Jedi Phasma can also be the same image. Thank you for your assistance.

Welcome to the FISD eh.

Thanks for finding that scan Glen, though it was bothering me today so I hunted around all of the places it could be and eventually found it in a folder on the shelf. Having seen that scan of the Anovos one, I'll scan this so if anything goes wrong applying I can reproduce bits.

Two weekends in a row? outrageous. Started by addressing last weeks mistake. I filed out the holes as I described, which worked well on one but the other side drifted slightly so fitting the bar was impossible. I ended up making some little 3D printed donuts I taped in place and then used a step bit and went to 5mm. This is a little sloppy but allows me to align how I need to. A dab of slow setting glue when I apply will stop them moving with time. Next up, there was a fun delivery this week. The full works from @R2Dan After a quick test fit of my SC-44C, which was perfect spacing but needs shorter screws I moved on to fitting the holster to the leg. Having learnt to be more carful on the Kit Kats the 1st job was to prep the template. The mount from R2Dan wasn't a perfect fit so I positioned it where it looked central and marked the holes. I then marked the hole centres. Once the template was taped on I very very carefully aligned the part to where it will go and after a couple of adjustments was happy so centre marked the holes and drilled with a brad point. Used the nicer ones this time which where through very cleanly. Much happier with this. I will probably also reinforce the leg slightly at the hole point, which means slightly longer screws. Will Need to see what the leg room is like. This means the legs are all now ready for gluing up the 1st seams. I need to check I have all the clamps and magnets to hand and I can get going. (legs swapped side to side so the fall into each other not over, I didn't drill the holster in the middle) Next up I got on with removing the remaining excess from the forearm parts, again going for a minimal return for comfort, room, and flexibility. The wrists I have tried to remove as much return as possible. My hands BARELY fit so I need to tape them up and see if I need to do something clever to help here. Biceps got the same treatment as everything else. Also probably now ready for the main seam to be glued up. The overlap will wait for sizing later down the line. Shoulder bell lips also all ready for glue now, removed the lip for a clean edge. The foam draft trim came so I also fitted that to the spats per Ardeshirs video. I also couldn't resist adding the velcro to have something that sort of looks done. The glued clip end I'll wait for once I have the shins and boots assembled to be able to check positioning. The foam trim works great and really does help kit it all lined up well. Finally I did a trimming pass on the chest plate. I've left more return here as it's not really going to need to flex much, but I know some reshaping will probably be needed. As you can see I also removed the pill backing to allow for some fabric. I've left a small lip on the rear to give a nice clean definition, but could go a little further if needed. I need to order some fabric for the backing. I understand this should be an aeromesh? I can't find any good reference or documentation on this only a few photos from submissions. I was sure if I should go for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122155896996?var=424700660017 which is a basic mesh, or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323052345596?var=515553086677 which is a "spacer" which has a thin foam and backing which might be a bit more opaque. I am also considering the basic mesh with a plan cotton/canvas 2nd later to make it opaque. I also can't seem to find the sticker sheet for the armour, which is a little worrying as if so I am going to have to remake them all. And while I have a circuit, that's not really what I was hoping to have to do.

Welcome to the FISD! Make sure to start a troop log so we can follow your deployments https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/276-trooper-missions-and-deployment/

Finally been able to work on this again. Come up with a plan to work bottom up. This builds confidence as I go and introduces things like ABS slurry slowly as I work up. I started on the spats. I have finish sanded the trim lines to 120G now, probably need to do a 2nd pass at 240. I plan to make these as Ardeshir does in his video with the Velcro away from the slip end. To give these maximum flex I've gone pretty tight on the return edge, and have some foam trim coming to lock into the shin grooves. I also went pretty tight on the shin returns. Enough to have a bit of depth but not enough to dig in to anything like on my OT. I think there's about 3/4 mm of thickness, not quite as small as it looks here. Obligatory try on with completely inappropriate trousers This shows the spat return well I also drilled for the Kit Kats, and independently learned the template is rubbish. I carefully measured and marked and aligned the templates before drilling. And found I'd aligned it a bit too far left. The left side is right on the seam line, and should be in a little. To fix this I plan to slightly slot the holes in 2mm and then use a 3D printed reinforcement to fix the final position. I've drawn on some guide lines that will allow me to move them in slowly. I'll probably start at 1mm (marked is 2mm) and see how that looks 1st. Next up will be the thighs. Again I'll trim the return reasonably close and drill for the holster. I've also trimmed and sanded a few other bits bit these will get more attentions I work up the armour.

Congratulations on the helmet looks awesome! I've started using ASA on a blaster build. Didn't know I could vapor smooth but good to know, I'll try some slurry to fill a few gaps and issues!

I am bad at staying hydrated but the day before a troop I do make an extra point to keep drinking water, then on the day just keep topped off on each lids off break. I probably should drink more but having to de-kit for the loo is always a faff

Welcome to the FISD. Good luck with your build. Make sure to take your time and if not sure on anything ask first.

Merged the two threads.

Also dead for me today

Welcome back trooper! I've been using Proton VPN recently to get round this: https://protonvpn.com/?ref=pme_lp_b2c_proton_submenu It's free, is rated well and bypasses all the annoying blocks well. Easy to flick on and off as needed on PC/phone/tablet. The UK GML is probably the best shout here, have a word with Wez and see what they can do for you.

Love how the diagrams use a bucket

This is why I hate painting, I do something like this more or less every single time. Builds coming on well but I also wouldn't want to clear coat it, it won't look right. I'm not doing a Non saga build but for things for my TLJ I've just been leaving them in the bare white paint, which is an acrylic. This gives a pretty decent approximation of the bare castings used. It also doesn't really buff up properly if you do polish it. It also dings up and weathers in pretty well, which for something I've never trooped shows how clumsy I am. I am using Halfords paint in the UK so not how sure this compares to the Behr but I can't imaging they are a million miles apart if they are both acrylic auto style paints.

Maybe a casting to get the volume they needed? 2 tips times 56 is a lot of tips and they would have probably struggled to source that many tips.

I recently re-did my fans with 5015 hydraulic bearing fans from aliexpress. The old set I had were never quiet and had gotten really rattley. These new ones I've only trooped a couple times but have been more than quiet enough for me. Being 5v I can run them off of a USB power bank. I also wire mine separately, not being from somewhere hot it's more about stopping my helmet getting stuffy or fogging up. With one on I've never run the battery flat in a whole days trooping. I've occasionally used both for a bit bit never very long, it's just not needed. Why not noctua? These fans cost £6 for 5 and do the job. The flow is also not ideal. The blower fans suck the air away from you and blow it away. The noctua is a through design so it's either blowing directly away or at you, and there's not really any good way to mount that and still get good flow. Plus you might even feel the cold a bit.

Welcome to the FISD! Would love to see you start a build thread so we can follow your progress!

Hi, There's no such thing as "legion approved". The approval is of an entire costume as a whole as fitted to that individual at the time of the clearance. Costumes have been approved using an EFX but there are more accurate options available. If you're looking to source Stormtrooper armour I'd suggest you start here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ We have posts on where to look, and also importantly where to avoid.

Working fine here, I know some browsers are funny about not having https these days. That site is Star Wars internet history. Glad it's safe on the archive.

An amazing amount of effort going into this, I've tried a few times and always fail with big 3D parts! Allergies aside you should be wearing full PPE with most of this stuff, or you can develop them. Not sure what alternatives there are to the 2 part body filler. Maybe some thing like a resin and a filler? Would cure pretty fast too.