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Everything posted by themaninthesuitcase

  1. Sounds like I'll be making a change to aluminium. Found a eBay seller selling the correct 1.5" tube so will probably order a length next pay day and start over.
  2. Gotta have blingy lights! The battery plate did have a back plate which screwed on with 4 tiny screws. After the butcher job only 1 was left so I will probably just glue it once I am happy with everything. I'm working on another TK related software project for a bit this evening but I do have some ideas to add a bit more utility to the lights seeing as I have fancy posh ones.
  3. The hand guards are vac formed in the images they sent out. But not seen any gloves up close, best I can see is the header in the email which *might* be rubber.
  4. I'm also hoping someone records the panel, I asked them direct and it basically said someone might be we won't be.
  5. This weekends progress report: I spent a bit of time on the collapsed tube with a kettle and a broom handle. The collapsing is a bit lessened but not gone. Will try again during the week. On Friday the charger and battery set I ordered arrived. I opted for a Nikon EL-EN9 as I already had 2 batteries and a charger so would mean I wouldn't need to buy 2 chargers and give me a spare set of batteries too. Once I started comparing the battery closely to the mag holder I found there was marginally less room than I thought so I made a small change which earnt me 1.5mm of space. Essentially I removed a side from between 2 panels and put it on the end giving me the thickness of the panel extra. Checking the battry fit by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr I next worked on trimming down the excess from the charger plate to fit in the little space available. It's a bit flexible with so much removed but a dab of glue here and there should be okay once I have final placement sorted. Modifed charge plate by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr The power cabled inside was about 4cm long with no real way to plug in so I had to splice in a new wire. I started by taking about 45cm of single core wire in black and red. I was going to go for a bigger gauge wire but the internal wire was tiny so figured this would be plenty. To keep things tidy I got to do something I've wanted to try for ages. You put the wire in a drill and then slowly wind there 2 together ensuring you hold the wires apart just after the twisting. Custom twist cable by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This give a nice neat length of wire that will not make a mess. This was then spliced int the existing wires and covered in heat shrink over each join and then a 2nd layer over the top. All was great until I stuck a battery on and checked the voltages. They were backwards. On closer inspection the red and black wires had been reversed at the factory. At this point I just decided to unsolder the old wires and to do it properly. Mk2 Power connection by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This sorted out my concerns with the voltage and so I braved a live test with the battery on the breadboard. This went flawlessly and even the new switches I added all worked great. Testing on battery power by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr In all things went pretty well this weekend.
  6. Skomer in Wales, was a great experience. It's really not complicated. The hardest part of these setups is the coding, and Skyone taught him self pretty well, I could code before I started so I was a bit faster/tidier is all. The actual electronics on these kits are pretty basic, it's mostly just joining together premade circuits and components. If you want to try some of it read through the Arduino getting started guides and look on places like AdaFruit and Make: who both are very good on their explanations. A quick example, the power LED on my circuit is more or less the blink example from arduino. But I later moved it to a PWM(pulse width modulation) to allow me to slow flash (i.e. it dims slowly). The code behind that isn't hard, its just using maths to move a number between 1-255 and back again. The various switches again followed the examples from Arduino. If you want to try a lot of places do a starter set for about £25-40 using copy boards depending on what comes with them. Get one of these and work through some examples you'll soon get the hang of it.
  7. I've started a scratch build but a lot are using doopydoos resin kits if the blaster forums are nothing to go by.
  8. Worked a bit more on the main tube recently. I've cut out the rest of the cocking handle slot and the ejector port. This was done a day or so and today I discovered a bit of a disaster: The cocking slot has collapsed. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr The cocking slot has collapsed. I am guessing this was due to the tension in the plastic being released by the cut. I've had a half hearted attempt to straighten it but will have to have a think it through a bit. The ejector port has also collapsed but to a much lesser extent. To remove the paper template was a pain. First I peeled off as much as I could by hand. Then warm water and a scrubbing pad to remove the rest of the paper. This left a lot of the spray mount which was cleaned of with WD-40 which in turn was cleaned off with Isopropyl alcohol and finally washed in soapy water. Cleaned tube by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This gave me a nice clean tube one which to start the final cleaning and repair work on. There's a few distinctly oval holes to fix and also some drill damage where it caught while drilling. I've got some magic sculp on it's way as recommended by Khazid. The drill damage by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr
  9. One of the issues with the sounds was the file ordering on disk that skyone mentions in his build. As a mac user the application he suggests wasn't going to work. Fortunately there's a open source linux tool I could use call fatsort. This can be installed using homebrew and then used this guide to get it working http://unfinishedbitness.info/2014/04/16/alphabetically-sorting-fat-usb-drives-with-mac-osx/(just skip the compilation steps if you used home brew, also you need to use diskutil unmount /Volumes/disk not amount). Battery charger to cut up was ordered today along with some switches, resistors and a pack of assorted coloured wire to make things a bit easier.
  10. First big screw up this evening. Was attempting to wire in the mini amp and managed to solder a hole over before the wire went in. Queue much swearing with a solder sucker them soldering it into the wrong hole before calling it quits. I've got 2 more on order as they are only 99p a piece. This gives me one for the test rig and one for real with out having to remove wires. My top tip is to ensure all wires are threaded before any soldering is done! I'll also be using a smaller tip. I also checked and all 3 grounds are common on the amp so unless they are all needed I'll not be using them all. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. I ordered my armour last night using the code that welshchris77 was kind enough to let me use. As a token of appreciation I also have a 10% code available if someone wants $45 off their armour and haven't yet ordered. Code expires just after the deadline so act fast. PM me if you're interested. Codes now gone to Kredal this morning.
  12. Oh I also have made a schematic of the circuits as they are (plus what I expect for the amp). This can be seen on the github repository: https://github.com/themaninthesuitcase/e-11blaster There is an image on the readme and in the docs folder there is the raw Fritzing file if you want it.
  13. Got most the electronics working now. There's a few issues with the sound but I'm currently running the minimum viable circuit so I suspect I need to wire in the amp and such to hear what's happening properly. Lights wise I'm done! The grove 10 segment is great, super easy to use and I can easily display the current ammo level, flash it, cycle all the LEDs etc. It's also pretty bright, maybe too much so! Ammo display by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Unlike other builds which are using the big 3W (1W per colour) LEDs I've elected to use AdaFruit Neo Pixel Minis. These are still RGB but only need 3 wires (5v, ground and a data) can be chained, individually addressed and only draw 60mA each when all 3 colours are maxed. Given the low current draw I was sceptical of the claimed brightness but I need not have worried. When testing last night they where TOO bright and I couldn't look at them directly in a dim room! The red isn't as bright as the blue or green, but still plenty bright and if I feel the need I can chain 2 or 3 to increase the brightness. Neo Pixel Blue by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Here I've aimed the camera back at my monitor to show the brightness a bit. Whilst my monitor isn't the brightest I can tell you its 98 cd/m2 and your's is probably more like 200-300 unless you've turned it down (if not do so, you're eyes will thank you). In all pretty happy with last nights progress.
  14. Thanks Chris, it's slow work but not as hard as I had expected yet! I've not got much done recently as I spent last weekend on a small island in the Irish Sea photographing puffins, then had to come home and pay the family tax I'd accrued! Most of the electronics are here now. Sound stuff arrived the day I went away and I ordered some other bits on Thursday, some Adafruit nano-pixels for the barrel lighting and a Grove LED bar as an ammo counter. The nano-pixels arrived yesterday and are TINY. Hoping they are bright enough but if so will save me messing about with LED drivers. Also discovered that the battery from my old Nikon D40 JUST fits, these are EN-EL9 for those following along at home. I should have 2, though I've only found one. At some point I will order a cheap charger/battery kit on amazon to give me something to cut up for mounting in the blaster and also a 2nd battery. Next jobs are to finish the mag holder, adding the remaining details and trimming the finial shape. I also want to make a start on the mag it's self as I know that one will be tricky. Edit: The Grove 10 segment LED arrived this morning so I am pretty much all set to complete the electronics over a few evenings.
  15. I'm ordering this evening if you're sure you won't use it for a spare bucket or cap etc.
  16. I've just heard back from Anovos and the butt and kidney plate are separate.
  17. I've just heard back from Anovos and the butt and kidney plate are separate.
  18. That would be my hope as it does a appear to be some what idealised but they do make a point of pointing out the asymmetrical look so who knows.
  19. That should be my hope as it does a appear to be some what idealised but they do make a point of pointing out the asymmetrical look so who knows.
  20. A fair point, but ignoring the specifics, would a warped back ROTJ bucket be an issue on an ANH build? I suppose you could warm and unwarp it to an extent.
  21. I've just spent a a bit comparing the images on their site of the prototype. I've been comparing them to images in centurion builds and I do think the mould accuracy is good, one thumb print is a detail many kits miss. My first concern is the rear of the helmet looks more like a ROTJ helmet than a ANH that most have, and it also looks like stickers rather than hand painted, though that makes sense and is easy to change. The 2nd is isn't not clear if the butt and kidney plates are 1 piece or two. Would the shape of the rear of the helmet force an ROTJ build or would a ANH be okay? The rest of the build is clearly ANH so I would expect they've gone this route with the butt/kidney too. I gather the helmet was based on a archive one so that may well have been a later one. I think ultimately I've sold myself on this kit now, I have been investigating other vendors but I *think* I"m about to order one of these.
  22. Spent some time on the blaster today. I started making the magazine holder. Again using the templates I printed and adjusted to size then cutting them out. I transferred this to a cereal box and made a mock up. Test fitting a cardboard mock of the Mag holder. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr The mock was a great fit so I cut the tape with a scalpel and then traced all the parts on to some 2mm ABS. I chose 2mm as I wanted the strength. I used the score and snap method people use for their armour. The breaks were super clean and didn't need any finishing before gluing. Finished the main work. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr After the unit was made I sanded the worst of the misalignments, non more than about 0.5mm which I was very happy with. There's a few small gaps that need filling which I will do once I order some magic sclup. I then attached some of the detailing greeblie bits on the side and bottom. The bottom part was made from some 2mm off cut but I noticed it was much thinner on the real sterling so I sanded this down to just under 1mm. More greeblies by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr All that's left on this now is the filling and also I need to trip the sides to the curve of the barrel. I deliberately left these over sized to trim back
  23. Really great build. Lot of inspiration for my build in there too. If mine comes out half as good I'll be happy!
  24. That is good. Most of my stuff took a few days to dispatch. One took nearly a week!
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