themaninthesuitcase

Thats what I did but means you need a lot more. And they are still fiddly.

I found the smaller ones didn't have enough pull to them but it might have been I just needed stronger ones. I have around 20 of the 20x3mm ones and I think all are okay, I did chip a 10mm one though as they were too small to hold properly and slipped.

Try and add a tape tab to the back, it can help get them off or at least it helped me. Just add a lenght of tape too long but then join sticky to sticy so you have somethign to grab. Can see some here: Final glue up on right bicep by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I did! I thought for a while that was the bag and they just added the insert to the bag, but if you look properly you see its the whole bottom. FWIW i think the bag is black + dirt not brown or green. The ALICE bag does come in black just not as common.

As always if the detachment needs many hands to make light work, they need but ask.

In Scotland I'm surprised he even needs 1 fan! In all seriousness 1 fan should be okay in this fine gaggle of nations of ours. I have 2 but only run 1, even when trooping the Excel and on a warm day. The Excel was actually warmer than the nice day and 1 fan was still fine.

Rogue One Power Cylinders I'm also now offering power cylinders for Rogue One blasters. These are on the E-11 for the Shore, Death and Stormtroopers. These are complete and as accurate as I'm going to reasonably get unless I can get hold of a screen used one with some calpiers! These are closed source unlike my ANH ones, and I will be charging $11/£10 for each of them. To complete them you will need 2 standard M3 screws. DIN 7991 for Shore and TK and the Death use a button head. As before they are available on Shapeways: Rogue One Power Cylinders

Those came out great Theo, glad you liked the parts.

In my Garrison the normal is not painted, infact very very few are as far as I've seen. Mine's not and I can't see me ever doing it. FWIW I've never been able to tell if someones bucket is painted or not just by looking at the eyes.

From what I've heard, and do not take this as gospel at all, Android is awful for real time audio. The code behind my IOS app is actually pretty simple thanks mainly to an incredible audio library called audiokit, though my app is a corner case for them so I've found a few bugs along the way. Arduino is something I really want to do more of but I need a project for it. Though I just helped a friend with some code for a new Ghostbusters Proton pack light kit they're developing.

Sounds good! Lots of good options for troopers now at all prices and skill levels. I'll have to find some time to route around the code in this, I was thinking of going arduino before I started my IOS app.

Most of the effort seems to be going into the Shoretrooper. There's some people working on the Deathtrooper but significantly less. Best bet is spec ops, but outside of some of the shared components with the shore trooper you'll probably struggle for armour. There's 2 helmets I know of, maybe 3 but most aren't as far along as the Shoretrooper ones which are starting to see silicone now. The boots (Dr Martens Jered) are a pain to locate so generally people are going for a close alternative in the Talib.

Quick observatoion, you might want to smooth off the edges of your cuts a bit more. The shins and the shoulder bell you show are both things that flex a bit in use and any roughness will eventually lead to a crack.

How many perimeters did you use?

Quick tip for how I did my lines on the traps: Marking up the lines for trap stripes by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr There's masking tape for the top and bottom, I measured out with a caliper (because the compound error with a rule will be huge) the correct number of equally spaced end points top and bottom. Drew the line with a pen, then just hand painted the line over the top. For the tears I did something similar but I eyeballed the distance. Marked the ends of the first and last line then sub divided to get the right number: Marking out for tear sripes by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Hope that's useful.

#85 Coal black which is the satin one. #5 and #14 are right.

Those look great all lined up!

It's not an official UKG troop but I know a few members will be there. Though I'd doubt they will be kitted up.

You don't count. You could spot a TM form an RS at a mile on a foggy day. I mean normal people!

Romania is in the EU, if I understand correctly, the goods will be taxed at source for other EU countries. That means TM and RS will be taxed in the UK and no further tax due in Romania. All until Brexit but that's a different issues entirely. Anovos will come from the US, and be charged tax upon receipt. In the UK this is 20% VAT + 6% ish duty + fees based on the sales + shipping value. You say Romania is 20% sales tax plus customs charges, so close enough. All the above said, Anovos is probably cheaper than TM or RS, even after the taxes are accounted for as those are premium products and whilst I don't know exactly I have heard rough numbers. There are also other manufacturers of course that may or may not affect the maths here. AV, TM and RS are all good armours. Each has their own pros and cons but the reality is line a 3 of you up in a row and you'll struggle to tell which is which in a photo.

This evening I had to re-do the crack repair. I used some scissors to trim off the excess and it sent a crack down the fabric. In hind sight I should have sanded it off but there was a lot of excess to remove so I didn't. To fix it this time I used a burr on a Dremel to grind back the T-shirt and super glue where it cracked. That stuff is HARD, took a good 15 minutes to get most of the spit area removed. I didn't remove all of it as I didn't want to go through into the ABS. I also left the bits that didn't break to help reinforce the area, but I did smooth. Once the area was cleaned up I glued on a piece of ABS scrap under the crack and about 5mm each side. I left this to set. Second attempt crack repair by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Once the glue was dry I used a sanding drum to remove the excess and smoothed the edges. This seems to have done the trick as the crack isn't moving now. You can see where I left the repair a little proud of the cracked edge by where the black marks from my under suit still are as I couldn't sand there. This should stop the crack opening as the repair comes out past the crack. I'll have to keep an eye on it but hopefully it will hold for a while. I also trimmed back my butt plate as recommended by my CO and smoothed all the edges on the whole armour as he also recommended I do that.

That muzzle looks a lot like a keyless drill chuck. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13MM-Keyless-Drill-Chuck-SDS-HBM-Power-Drill-Driver-Adaptor-W132-/310671934141Not an exact match but there's a number about.

I've been looking at the neck seals on the Shore trooper tonight and just gone back to the DT. They aren't the same. The shore looks to be using a foam rubber material, and there's a zip at the back. For the DT they are using that cloth covered material I mentioned before, the textures are clearly different on both when viewed at high resolution.

You can also tap and hold the refresh icon to request any desktop site. Though if it's a responsive site you might get the exact same thing.

More repairs today On my 2nd troop (I know, I know only 2 but child care is an issue) I cracked my right shin at the top at some point. Poormans fibre glass to the rescue! Same as I did on the bucket but now with added Billgram: I of course forgot to T the crack with a knife (again) but only after 2 layers of T-shirt and glue. This is a very thick reenforcement and the crack isn't moving at all any more. I also have glue covered fingers so am struggling to unlock my iPhone I'll leave this to go off completely and then sand back the repair as the little bits of fabric rise up and make little spikes that won't do the under suit any favours. My CO also recommended I trim down some of my returns so I'll be doing that before my next troop too.