themaninthesuitcase

Sounds like you'll do fine. Slow and steady is definitly the way with this. On mine I swapped between the armour and Doopy kits to keep things a bit varied. Have a ready through some of the build threads for the DD, they can be brought to a near perfect replica state if you want to. Don't feel you need to especially for a trooping blaster. Make sure you ask any questions before cutting or gluing bits and you'll be fine.

Not sure I follow? What kits do you mean?

Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr The under suit is similar to the DT and ST under suits, not rubber definitely fabric, and of course different fabric to both the others. Construction seems to be ribbed for elbow, knees, shoulders and top arms (assume whole arm?), chest and neck seal. As with the shore trooper there's a mesh section under the armpits. It appears that the hip section is smooth with no ribbing. Full gallery of images submitted in evidence: https://www.flickr.com/photos/themaninthesuitcase/albums/72157671098462536/with/28268756232/

I belive this is because the original suit they own has, wait for it, 2 left shins! I don't think so, they look fine. Look at this reference image, you can see theres a small lip most the way round. I would also say your ear gaps are completely fine as is. For a tutorial on painting the traps I did one for my bucket here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=479783 if you scroll up a few posts you'll see how I did the tears too. When doing the tube templates you really do need to burnish them down and seal them. I preferred to use clear rather than white as white is notoriously hard to colour match and stands out when it doesn't. Let the clear dry as per the tin, for my Humbrol this was 6 hours. I think if you scroll up a few more posts you'll find how I did my tube stripes. What you use to remove the old paint will depend on what you used. Be careful to test what ever product first on an offcut to ensure that it doesn't damage the plastic or make it brittle.

Looks like the image address is a bit messed up. Are you trying to put multiple images in one [ img ] [/ img] tag? You can only have on in each, so if you have multiple images you will need one set of img tags for each image.

I've got to pick up some craft supplies tomorrow so I might see if I can get a black fabric marker to save me on that last bit of acetone rubbing.

That would certainly affect shipping and possibly breach a "band". But if thats the case, why not offer a chepaer slower option as well as air mail. If I've waiting 12 months whats another 6 weeks for a container on a ship? I've been takling to someone on their FB pages and have been pointing to the issues with delayed shipping payment/pricing. It's a nice idea but they need a reasonably accurate estimate up front, they guess too low and people may not be able to pay the final bill and have to cancel, guess too high and people won't order in the first place.

I'm out of this one too, the shipping and taxes wiill probably come to more than the $675 the kits costs which I just cannot support going forwards. The OT TK was only $130 shipping so not sure how it's suddenly 3.5x more expensive for what must be a similar size and weight box.

I had a similar issue when I first suited up. Removing most the return on the toop allowed me to pull the thighs up that little bit more and made all the difference, I don't even need cresants now. Though as joseph suggests get everything else done first. Final adjustments for fit and comfort need to be done as a whole really.

I've been following their work in a shoretrooper group on Facebook, seems like a nice guy but I can't tell you if it's any good yet as no one has any.

If you're perscription isn't too strong just go with out. I wear glasses normally but don't bother in armour. The visor isn't great and messes with the view anyway. When trooping you will have a spotter to help guide you too, some other costumes may as well be blind!

This is how I did my traps: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=479783 For the lines around the edge, I just took my time. Braced up as well as I could and even then I made mistakes. Just have some kitchen roll handy and a bit of the appropriate thinners, though go easy on this. If you make a mistake, I made several, wipe away straight away. As the base grey is dry a quick wipe won't hurt it but will take away the wet paint with out issue. if you're worried practice on a scrap piece. Alot of the trick is getting the right amount of paint onto the brush.

Just had to look at the CRLs to see what the commander was, but I think I prefer it to the standard snow trooper. Is the face mask on it a vac formed part or a vinyl part like the trooper?

I have a similar style logo on my Sondico stuff. The logo comes off pretty easy but to get the "glue" off has taken a LOT more effort. Basically I use a t-shirt off cut then hold a pad of it soaked in acetone on then rub hard. It's taken a lot of elbow grease but I'm getting there. I wash it after each session and after 2 there's not much left at all and I'm hopign 1 more go and I'll be done.

Chances are if you found them via google it's not what you want. There's a couple of excptions but not many. I really do recommend you speak to the Armourer team or send me a PM. Chris.

Whish I'd known about those a month ago! No logos I can see either.

I'll echo the stay away from SDS, there's many reasons but ultimately there's better options, and not just the two already mentioned. I'd suggest popping over to the UK Garrison and posting in our forums. The armourer team will be able to point you in the right direction for you're needs and budget. Chris.

RS should work well with the Anovos helmet, there are many who believe they are both based on the same original armour. Looking at my Anovos helmet it does seem your gap between the face plate and cap is a bit larger how ever I've had mine apart so could be how I put mine back together. For the frown I used Humbrol Enamel thinners and possibly some Isopropyl alcohol. The thinners can be got at Hobbycraft (get a big 125ml one it evaporates FAST) and the IPA at a chemist, independents are more likely to have it vs a boots etc. I just cleaned off all the grey and then repainted with Humbrol Enamel #5 Admiralty grey. On mine I pulled out all the standard internal stuff as it's a bit pants. For the lens I measured out and drilled the lens it's self to fit the screws that hold the ears on. These screws should ideally be swapped out for some M3.5 counter sinks painted white (again i used Humbrol, white gloss). screws:http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-countersunk-slotted-head-machine-screws-m3-m4-m6/I used the M3.5x 30mm long nuts: http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-coarse-brass-hexagon-full-nuts-m2-m3-m3-5-m4-m5-m6-m8-m10/ washers : http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-flat-washers-m3-to-m10/ This shows my lens mounting. For the padding I used some cheap tactical pads from eBay but a foam clover is also popular and was what was used on the set. The clover is just some 1" foam cut to a shape that works well in the bucket. I wouldn't worry about plastidip. You'll find very few people bother in the UK and people I've spoken to who've done it here say it wasn't worth it. The one other thing people will usually do on the Anovos helmet is either change the mesh or the whole mic tip (aka hovi tip). The mesh on the anovos is too fine, I swapped mine out for a bit cut from a poundland sieve but I'm still not 100% happy so might change them for some others in future. My bucket refurb starts on this page and is a bit scattered amongst the armour build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/page-5

I'm toying with a 2nd but that email comms.....Well that and I'd have to buy another load of accessory parts!

So what are we waiting for? Lets get this build rolling! Just make sure you dont' follow the Anovos instructions which will lead you wrong in a few places. If in doubt ask here and someone will help you. Remember it's not a race and slow and steady will give you a far better result.

https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/ Looks like you should be okay depending on the extruder/hotend. You need a pretty enclosed path through the extruder to stop it bending all over the place. It would probably work on mine but don't know what the simple extruder is like.

If you're looking for spare parts I would not pick Anovos. The kit is pretty straight forward to build, mien was by first and so far only build, but there are a few gotcha points which can catch you out if you're not expecting them. Of course thats the same for any armour, so if you can read up as much as you can first that will help reduce unexpected issues causing you to mess up. There's a few suppliers in the US, I don't know of any in Canada, those may well be your best option. The TM option mentioned is great but you'll have to import it from England so shipping and customs will expensive. It is excellent armour though and will probably be what I end up with next.

Your best bet is to contact your local 501st Garrison and have a chat with them. They should be able to point you at a known source locally or at least where shipping won't cripple you! For Ontario it looks like Capital City Garrison for you: http://capitalcity501st.ca/

Sounds like something for the list, those Hengstlers look lovley too.

I wouldn't pay for the Anovos soft goods. I use the neck seal as I've not got another but the under suit has certainly been religated to a backup. The neck seal is quite nice but I don't think it will last long. It's also quite big, which is great for my 17+" neck but I'm a minority, most people have loads of room.