themaninthesuitcase

Just had to look at the CRLs to see what the commander was, but I think I prefer it to the standard snow trooper. Is the face mask on it a vac formed part or a vinyl part like the trooper?

I have a similar style logo on my Sondico stuff. The logo comes off pretty easy but to get the "glue" off has taken a LOT more effort. Basically I use a t-shirt off cut then hold a pad of it soaked in acetone on then rub hard. It's taken a lot of elbow grease but I'm getting there. I wash it after each session and after 2 there's not much left at all and I'm hopign 1 more go and I'll be done.

Chances are if you found them via google it's not what you want. There's a couple of excptions but not many. I really do recommend you speak to the Armourer team or send me a PM. Chris.

Whish I'd known about those a month ago! No logos I can see either.

I'll echo the stay away from SDS, there's many reasons but ultimately there's better options, and not just the two already mentioned. I'd suggest popping over to the UK Garrison and posting in our forums. The armourer team will be able to point you in the right direction for you're needs and budget. Chris.

RS should work well with the Anovos helmet, there are many who believe they are both based on the same original armour. Looking at my Anovos helmet it does seem your gap between the face plate and cap is a bit larger how ever I've had mine apart so could be how I put mine back together. For the frown I used Humbrol Enamel thinners and possibly some Isopropyl alcohol. The thinners can be got at Hobbycraft (get a big 125ml one it evaporates FAST) and the IPA at a chemist, independents are more likely to have it vs a boots etc. I just cleaned off all the grey and then repainted with Humbrol Enamel #5 Admiralty grey. On mine I pulled out all the standard internal stuff as it's a bit pants. For the lens I measured out and drilled the lens it's self to fit the screws that hold the ears on. These screws should ideally be swapped out for some M3.5 counter sinks painted white (again i used Humbrol, white gloss). screws:http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-countersunk-slotted-head-machine-screws-m3-m4-m6/I used the M3.5x 30mm long nuts: http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-coarse-brass-hexagon-full-nuts-m2-m3-m3-5-m4-m5-m6-m8-m10/ washers : http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-flat-washers-m3-to-m10/ This shows my lens mounting. For the padding I used some cheap tactical pads from eBay but a foam clover is also popular and was what was used on the set. The clover is just some 1" foam cut to a shape that works well in the bucket. I wouldn't worry about plastidip. You'll find very few people bother in the UK and people I've spoken to who've done it here say it wasn't worth it. The one other thing people will usually do on the Anovos helmet is either change the mesh or the whole mic tip (aka hovi tip). The mesh on the anovos is too fine, I swapped mine out for a bit cut from a poundland sieve but I'm still not 100% happy so might change them for some others in future. My bucket refurb starts on this page and is a bit scattered amongst the armour build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/page-5

I'm toying with a 2nd but that email comms.....Well that and I'd have to buy another load of accessory parts!

So what are we waiting for? Lets get this build rolling! Just make sure you dont' follow the Anovos instructions which will lead you wrong in a few places. If in doubt ask here and someone will help you. Remember it's not a race and slow and steady will give you a far better result.

https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/ Looks like you should be okay depending on the extruder/hotend. You need a pretty enclosed path through the extruder to stop it bending all over the place. It would probably work on mine but don't know what the simple extruder is like.

If you're looking for spare parts I would not pick Anovos. The kit is pretty straight forward to build, mien was by first and so far only build, but there are a few gotcha points which can catch you out if you're not expecting them. Of course thats the same for any armour, so if you can read up as much as you can first that will help reduce unexpected issues causing you to mess up. There's a few suppliers in the US, I don't know of any in Canada, those may well be your best option. The TM option mentioned is great but you'll have to import it from England so shipping and customs will expensive. It is excellent armour though and will probably be what I end up with next.

Your best bet is to contact your local 501st Garrison and have a chat with them. They should be able to point you at a known source locally or at least where shipping won't cripple you! For Ontario it looks like Capital City Garrison for you: http://capitalcity501st.ca/

Sounds like something for the list, those Hengstlers look lovley too.

I wouldn't pay for the Anovos soft goods. I use the neck seal as I've not got another but the under suit has certainly been religated to a backup. The neck seal is quite nice but I don't think it will last long. It's also quite big, which is great for my 17+" neck but I'm a minority, most people have loads of room.

Hi Lance, Welcome to the club! Certainly a bit faster than most of us got our kits! Make sure you have a read through some build threads. ukswrath's thread is popular, I also liked Kman's and I feel mine covers a few bits many others haven't touched on. My biggest advice is to take it slow and ask questions and know when to stop for the day. This isn't a race and rushing or working tired or angry just leads to mistakes. Chris.

If your working to those sorts of numbers 0.1 would be written 0.100 and be said as 100 thou

It is! 0.136 (or 136 thou*) is about 3.4mm. Thou are quite a nice unit of measure for small stuff and the front sight isn't very big. 0.375 for example, which is the height, is about 9.5mm. * 1 thou = 0.001". A "tenth" is a "tenth of a thou" or 0.0001". Imperial is weird, but good for small measures as you can use whole numbers.

Erm inches I think. 0.136 would be 136 thousands of an inch.

For the block it's in the blueprints bit of the E-11 resource. Else I did a 3D part, link in my signature.

I think mine is 1/4" maybe a shade over.

Good news letter guys. Good luck with filling the attaché program, might it be worth giving some practical examples of work that the team does?

When I did my stripes I left 3-4 hours between coats. I think that's what the tin said anyway. Took 3 coats and I did a 4th out of paranoia.

M4 is a good size for the TD screws, you'll probably want nuts and washers for them but that makes it nice and secure.

The chances are that the paint will have bled under the template. So really you're starting over, clean off with thinners and start afresh. However It might be worth trying a top coat in french blue and seeing what happens. Worst case it's out with the thinners and you're no worse off. The Humbrol brand thinners is safe on ABS too which is handy, and it also works pretty well. If you have to start over you can seal the template with either a clear varnish or white. This will bleed and seel the template and mean the blue can't resulting in less clean up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAR-WARS-1-1-ABS-STUNT-STORMTROOPER-ARMOUR-HELMET-KIT-INCLUDING-TRIM-DECALS-/232073609639?hash=item3608aa41a7:g:nKYAAOSwygJXh120 It's a split cap which is FX isn't it? Must admit I'm not great at armour origins.

You used to be able to request a certficate after passing EIB or Centurion. These were created manually by a staff member who has since stopped. They looked really nice and where available in letter or A4 for you to print at home. Threads for reference: EIB: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22088-request-eib-certificate/?hl=certificate Centurion: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22087-request-centurion-certificate/?hl=certificate