justjoseph63

As Glen mentioned, it all depends on what you want to do with it. If you are looking for an inexpensive costume for Halloween/cosplay, you can find them with a Google search. A decent kit for those purposes will run around 3-4 hundred dollars, but they will still need to be built (trimmed/glued). Be aware that these are usually made from rather cheap materials, though, and in 99% of the cases are nowhere near screen accurate. However, if you are looking to join the 501st I would suggest using one of the "vetted" (tried and true) armorers here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ They cost more, but you get what you pay for. The quality and screen accuracy of these kits are leaps and bounds better than what you will find online, and once you are approved you can use them year-round for trooping at various 501st events. Getting approved and joining the 501st also means you can meet fellow Stormtroopers and all kinds of other SW characters at these events and make a lot of new friends (fellow Star Wars nerds like me) lol. If you have any questions (no matter how small) always feel free to ask. It's what we do here!

Hi Justin! Great to see that you are offering these (they will save folks a LOT of work)! Fantastic photos, and nice idea including the diagrams! But, since this is a sales thread, it needs to be listed in the "Ongoing Sales & Project Runs" area here. You will also need to list the price, as well as shipping costs, and note that as per our rules "All merchandise must be "in hand" and ready to ship before accepting payment". If you need help moving it, just PM any staff member and we will get that done for ya'. Best of luck in your venture!

Bump.

You da' MAN!

GREAT job, sir! To be honest, it would really help to see the armor as it looks (boots on) while wearing it even if it's not complete) which will help us advise of any fitting issues that may be present. Wearing an under suit would be preferable, but anything that is not baggy would do. Keep up this pace and you will be approved before you know it!

That should do it, but some polish may be needed as well.

Thank you for the photos, Robert! Working on your submission now, so bear with me brother.

Looking sharp. Damien, and really nice job on trimming the return edges on those wrists! The blue arrow below shows what I was saying about that area poking into your arms (and it will). Normally I would suggest trimming as seen with the yellow line, but since you have already glued the halves together if you trim that much out there would be too much room at the top opening. Instead, I would go with the blue line. I realize that the edges still need some fine tuning, (red arrow) but be sure to sand the edges down smooth (220 grit sandpaper). This is not only for comfort, but to make sure that any jagged edges don't snag on your under suit. Keep up the great work!

I would just remove as much as you need to for comfort. There is no hard and fast rule, but for Centurion level just be sure not to cut off anything past the raised ridge on either the calves or thighs,

You will need to angle them around more, Thomas, as seen in the photo below. As mentioned, it doesn't matter where the ammo boxes sit in the front in comparison with the cover strip, but it's the sides that are important. The images that Mario sent you are perfect examples.

You will be receiving a reply within 48 hours, Katie. Our apologies for the delay, but there was (and is) ongoing research on this. Thanks!

Of course! Your guess has been recorded, sir!

You are 100% correct, Dan. For the short-term, EVA would be ok, but would definitely get beat up and creased over time.

Before using the ABS paste I would go ahead and add your mobility cuts. The reason being is that if you patch the seams first, the pressure from making the cuts afterward may crack the pasted areas (blue arrows).

The raised ridges mentioned are the ones on the bottom, James (blue arrow). I wouldn't suggest the angle you have shown in red, as the points it would create (yellow arrow) could potentially poke into the back of your leg. If you need mobility cuts, I would go with something close to the blue line, but they are not a requirement for Centurion.

Bump. Moved from Announcements.

Welcome to the FISD, Leslie! There is some good news/bad news on building a Capt. Phasma costume... First, the good news! 1. Being one of the coolest characters to hit the franchise in quite a while is a definite plus. Just showing up in this armor will grab attention from young and old alike! 2. This could very well the most difficult and time consuming costumes to build in the TK world. Those who supply the (approvable) kits are pretty rare, and the cost for the complete ensemble can easily run into the thousands of dollars when you factor in not just the building of it, but the accessories (gaskets. boots, weapon, etc.)...chrome plating alone can cost a ton of cash. I honestly don't mean to put you off the idea of becoming a Capt. Phasma, but know that there is a lot involved. If you have the resources, I strongly recommend it!

I assure you that it is my pleasure to help in any way I can, Jonathan. Looking forward to the rest of your build!

Looking at the color, it seems as if it's very specific to those areas. As the only tan color on the costume is on the holster straps, were they in contact at some point (during storage, perhaps)?

For those of you who have an existing, UNFINISHED OT (Original Trilogy) TK build thread here here (started on or before 3/22/20) on the FISD and are aiming for higher levels (Expert Infantry and Centurion) the Command Staff is offering up some items to help get you there! These include: 1. A set of flexible hand guards as required for Level 3. Choice of Stunt or Hero (alternative) style. 2. A complete set of screen accurate hardware (split rivets, cap rivets, TD screws and ear screws). 3. A 6 x 9" (12 x 21 cm) hard-cover TK themed journal to jot down notes during your build. 4. Once you have submitted and been approved at Expert Infantry level, you will be sent an official FISD patch and Rocker tab. So what's the catch, you say? No catch. To win this package, all you have to do is provide a link to your build thread and guess what number we have in mind (hint- it's between 1 and 1000). If you have trouble providing a link just let us know. Here is the lowdown: 1. Must have an existing build thread here on the FISD started on or before March 22nd, 2020 (and provide a link). If you have trouble doing this, just contact a staff member. 2. Must be a FIRST TIME builder. 3. Contest ends April 23rd, 2020. Winner will be announced on April 24th. 4. Open to all future TKs world-wide. 5. You must post up your guess ON THIS THREAD! One guess per future trooper!! List of current guesses at bottom of post, and good luck to you all!! Stunt (or) Alternative (Hero) Notebook Hardware FISD Patch Expert Infantry Rocker tab (Goes right above the patch) GUESSES: 1. LEGOeatPokemon (Jonas)- 381 2. Artshot- 723 3. Dielotski- 555 4. 1nfern0- 421

My sincere apologies, Robert, but Brian Mentioned that: "I helped Robert with the photos and the calf halves shifted a bit when I was aligning the thighs and calves for the front photo. Normally they are closed and do not show any opening. A slight twist back in one direction and the halves line up nicely and are fully closed". Can you add an updated photo of those as well? Again, no need to get fully suited up, just the calves. THANKS!!! Side note: AWESOME job on that 3D blaster!! No print lines.. I wish all those who 3D print their weapons could see what can be achieved with some serious sanding and filler. WELL DONE!

Nice job so far, Matt! Since you are going for the TLJ version, don't forget that (as per the CRL) Basic approval (and above) all metallic surfaces require a "Mirror like/unweathered" finish. You have some serious sanding time in front of you, but I look forward to seeing your progress!! Keep up the great work!

Looking sharp, Robert, and thank you for your Expert Infantry submission! As Mario mentioned, please include the extra photos he listed (no need to get suited up). Also, please add some side views of the thigh ammo pack. As soon as ya' get that done we can get started. THANKS!!

Although not specifically listed in the CRL, for level 3 approval the back edges (tabs) need to be an equal distance from the rear corners of the ridges (see arrows), as seen below. With some kits, this means that the boxes do not always line up perfectly with the cover strip in front, which is fine.