justjoseph63

One thing I would definitely do is remove all the return edge from the bottoms of the calves, This will give you a bit more room and hopefully loosen up the rear connection a bit. Leaving them on will also scratch the bejeezus out of your boot tops. Reference image

As I see it you have 2 options:

Wow... just WOW! It never ceases to amaze me how much talent we have out there. Keep it up!

I have always used plain black fiberglass window screen, Caleb. I can hook you up with some for free if you like, just shoot me a PM with your shipping info.

That's the spirit!

Hi Thomas, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Before we get started, don't be alarmed by the number of issues! While there are some that will need to be addressed for Centurion, some are simple dressing matters to make that awesome set of armor look it's very best... the vast majority can be remedied with a spare afternoon and some work, but I have every faith that you can do it.... and we are here to help! Side note: SO proud of you for going with the double snap method on the torso! Now let's get to it, brother! Although your lines are SUPER clean and crisp, adding some definition to the top of your vocoder would give it a more screen accurate appearance. A Filbert style brush and 5 minutes of work and you are golden! Reference mages We are suggesting that you raise your biceps at least half an inch or so and roll the forearms out. The "scoops" should be positioned on the inside where your arm bends (facing front) to prevent "armor-bite". Reference image You may want to replace the 1 inch elastic on your bicep to forearm connection with 2 inch, and use the double snap method. The reason I mention this is that in in some of your photos they are perfectly positioned, yet in others they roll toward your body a lot. In the photo below, the ribbed ridges are sitting on top of your arm, but should actually be facing the sides as seen in the reference images. Having that wider elastic and 2 snaps on each side of the connection will help keep them from shifting like that. We are HIGHLY recommending that you add some ABS tabs to the inside tops of the posterior plate in order to better line it up with the kidney. This is actually a fairly easy and effective fix, but if you need help on how to do this this just PM me! Reference images The cover strip alignment on your right leg is absolute textbook, but unfortunately you have the common issue of the "wandering left calf", causing the sniper knee plate to sit completely to the left of the thigh cover strip. This is another easy fix by gluing some foam padding on the inside of the front of the calf to keep in lined up. Reference images On a side note, you may want to check the glue that holds the cover strip on your left forearm, as it seems to be coming loose from the wrist area. Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Keep in mind that it's the small details that we look at for our highest level of of screen accuracy. You did a wonderful job on this build, and we want you to look your best! As per the CRL, "...tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek", so both sides will need to be re-positioned. Since you used decals this will be easier than if you had used paint. Reference image Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, we are requesting that you bring the shoulder bells in closer to the shoulder strap to eliminate the gap. Reference image We understand that not all troopers are built the same and there will be variations on how certain items fit, but the extra-wide gap in the back should be reduced. Here are some suggestions: 1. Trim all the return edge from the bottoms of the bells. This will allow them to ride a bit closer to the bicep. 2. Reduce the length of the strap that holds the shoulder bell to the shoulder (this will solve the above issue as well). 3. Rotate them forward to where you have an equal gap in the front and back. Reference image As per the CRL, there can be "...no or minimal overlap of the back plate over the kidney plate". You may be able to shorten the shoulder tabs on the back plate to bring it up higher. Reference images It looks like you CA glued the straps that hold your drop boxes in place, but the outside edge must be vertically aligned with the end of the ABS ammo belt. Reference images You are close... (SO close) to nailing this issue, but there can be no gap at the kidney/ab connection. Just tightening up your canvas belt a tad should fix this one!! Reference images In looking at the screen used ab-button plates, note that the raised area beneath the plates is visible on all sides. Yours should be trimmed to match (or close to it). Note that the corners on both the reference image plates are squared, not rounded. Reference image Again, you are VERY close on the ab-button paint, but the edges needs to be round. Since it has a curved tip, the Filbert style brush I suggested for the vocoder can pull double-duty and make this easier. Remember that the paint should not go all the way to the bottom of the raised part of the button (yellow arrows). Reference image Filbert brush I know you made a few mods to your belt, but unfortunately it will need to come up at least half an inch or so as required in the CRL for Level 3: "The top of the ABS ammo belt sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab- button panels". Reference images And lastly, although you did a fantastic job removing them from the inner edges, the "no return edge" requirement includes the area inside the "hump" as well. 4 minutes with a Dremel and you will be good to go! Reference images As I mentioned, none of these items are insurmountable, Thomas. (I had a LOT more dings on my first submission)! It may take you an afternoon of dedicated time, but we are here to assist you in any way we can to help you reach Level 3. Congrats on your EI badge, trooper, now get out there and make the FLG proud and I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission soon!

AWESOME!

My pleasure, sir... looking forward to seeing the results so that we can get that EI badge under your name!

SUPER nice job on this armor, Tyrone! Before we can move ya' forward I need one thing, brother... as per the CRL for basic approval, the paint on the frown "...does not leave the teeth area". The bottoms are spot-on, but the tops need a little tweaking. Some paint remover and a toothpick will clean up those areas pretty fast! Easy fix!! Reference images

Welcome, Jon! Here are a few links that may help: What are EI and Centurion?- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/ ANH Stunt CRL- https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt ANH Hero CRL- https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero CRL breakdown with screen used images- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/ Always feel free to ask as many questions as you like, no matter how small. We are here to help every step of the way!!

Looking forward to seeing your submission, sir! Just make sure you have all the required photos, and please add them to your thread with an image hosting service. Thanks!

Please add one full front photo (straight on, not from above). Thanks!!!

I just posted up a thread that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48991-rivet-settingremoval-101/

At some point in your OT build you will be using rivets. It may just be for attaching the thigh ammo pack for Basic, the cod tab for EI or all those plus the ab/kidney ones for Centurion. It's honestly pretty easy to attach both kinds of these using basic tools you probably have on hand: A flat-head screwdriver (preferably large), a drill with the correct size bits and a hammer. Removing them will require a thin bladed flat head screwdriver, some heavy-duty pliers and perhaps a drill. Safety gloves and goggles are recommended. For this tutorial I will be using scrap ABS. Now, let's get to it! Split (bifurcated) Rivets Assuming you are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion, you will need 9 (with washers) 6 for the left ab/kidney connection 1 for the lower cod tab 2 for the thigh ammo pack (if not using cap rivets) Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm). Shank should be 3/8" (9.25mm) long BEFORE YOU START: Make sure you have a very hard surface to hammer on, and I suggest laying down a piece of heavy cloth on top of it so you don't scratch your armor. 1. Carefully mark your hole placement(s). Using a 9/64" bit (about 4mm) drill out the hole 2. Insert rivet, dome side out. Hole will be snug 3. Turn over piece, insert washer onto rivet shank 4. Using the thin end of the screwdriver, insert it into the split and gently hammer it down 5. Continue moving the screwdriver farther up toward the thick part, hammering at each increment to open up the "legs" 6. Use the shaft of the screwdriver to get the widest opening possible. At this point you should be able to 7. use the hammer to flatten it out completely 1 2 3 4 = 5 6 7 = DONE! Single Cap Rivets Single cap (one domed end) rivets were used in the original films to attach the thigh ammo pack to the bottom of the right thigh. Although not a requirement at any level, many like to use them for screen accuracy You will need 2 sets (top and bottom), one for each side Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm) Again, you will need a hard surface (like the edge of a workbench) to hammer on Reference photo for placement IMPORTANT! Make sure the back edges of the ammo pack tabs are equal distance from the corners of the rear of the ridges on each side! 1. Carefully mark your hole placements. Drill holes. 2. Insert bottom (facing inside). 3. Shank should be facing outward. 4. Place cap on shank. 5. Gently give a few good taps with a hammer until it is set. Cap will flatten out. 1 2 3 4 5 DONE! REMOVING RIVETS Spit type: 1. Using a thin bladed screwdriver, CAREFULLY pry up each side the "legs". POINT SCREWDRIVER AWAY FROM YOU WHEN DOING THIS!!! 2. Using a set of heavy duty pliers, pinch the legs together until they meet 3. Washer will now slide off and rivet can be easily removed 1 2 3 Cap Rivets These are a bit trickier than removing the split type, so take your time to avoid damaging your armor. Safety gloves and goggles are suggested. 1. Using a pair of pliers, grip the cap part (this avoids it spinning). 2. Using a drill bit at least as wide as the shaft of the rivet, CAREFULLY drill through the bottom (base) from the back 3. Once the drill has penetrated the entire rivet, it can be easily removed. 1 2 3 If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, post up here.

EXCELLENT advice, Dan!!!

If you are using the foam as padding, I wouldn't suggest gluing it directly to your armor. The reason being is that we sweat, plain and simple, and over time the foam will start to smell. When I needed padding under the front of my left calf, I cut a strip of foam, glued Velcro to one side and attached the other side of the Velcro to the area where I needed it to stay. This way I can remove it on occasion and clean it. Once you install the visor you really shouldn't ever need to remove it, so you can use whichever method you like. I use Sugru on all mine. It is available to order in Sweden here.

Nice job, Chemi! As Glen mentioned, the large ab-button plate will need to be rotated before we can move along, sir. Should be a pretty easy fix!

Way to go Thomas! Yes, mobility cuts are perfectly acceptable at all levels as they were seen quite a lot onscreen. Just make SURE not to cut beyond the top part of the ridge on the thighs or bottom part of the ridge on the calves.

The Hero brows generally sit a bit lower than the Stunt, so it doesn't have to be a lot.

If you PM me your post code I can check what shipping would be.

Update: I haven't sold the double-cap type rivets in a few years, but I do carry the single-cap (as used onscreen).

Welcome back, Philip, and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Beautiful job on your build sir! . We are pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary requirements as set out in the CRL. On behalf of the D.O. Staff,congratulations and welcome to Centurion! Way to go, Philip! You really did this armor justice, brother, and thanks for the updated pics. Now get out there and show off that shiny white armor as the newest Centurion in the Georgia Garrison!

The rims don't have to be solid white, but some paint will be required.

WOW! As I mentioned before, this is one incredible set of armor. brother. In your EI submission your drop boxes were aligned perfectly, but now they are a bit askew and need to be moved out. This will take all of 2 minutes with a few dabs of glue. My apologies for missing this the last time, but we need you to remove a bit of the ends of the brow trim (the end should line up near the back part of the trap). Should take you all of 30 seconds and it will look a lot better. Reference images That's it, Philip. As soon as you get the updated photos in we have a Centurion badge with your name on it!!

Almost there, sir, and you'll have that TK number under your name soon! In the first photo below it looks as if the left drop box could come down a little, as it sits too close to the ammo pack above it, but in the second (older) pic it looks perfect! There should be a minimal gap between the boxes and ABS belt but they should not sit over it. References Although he didn't ding you on it, the thigh cover strips should not go beyond the raised ridges at the bottom. Reference images