justjoseph63

Can I ask what areas you are looking to use a heat gun on? The reason being is that some heat guns can reach temperatures of 1400 degrees, and can turn ABS into molten plastic in a matter of seconds. Many (if not most) times there are easier (not to mention safer) alternatives. Knowing the pieces you need to alter and seeing a few photos may save you some time and heartache.

Just know that if you are ever in doubt about cutting or gluing, ask here first but don't forget to add photos! Cutting ABS is easy, but adding it back is a whole different animal!

Thanks for sorting out those photos, Ashley! Sha Sha or myself will be with ya' shortly, so hang in there,

I personally would go with ABS, Carlos, but that is up to you. ABS has a shiny finish, can withstand a lot of abuse and is screen accurate.

Hi Jay, and congrats on starting your build!! I have a few suggestions if I may... First, I would highly recommend starting a build thread here. This will serve a few purposes. You can (and should) ask all the questions you have in one area, which will help you better keep track (and show off your build progress)! Another reason to do this is so that you can post photos of any issues you may have. When it comes to asking for advice, a picture really is worth a thousand words, and seeing the issue will help us provide more detailed answers. Another thing you should check out are some of the build threads designed for smaller troopers. In my opinion, the best one is by Christine @Cricket which you can find here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ The forearms (and other armor parts) can be effectively cut down to size and still be 100% approvable at all levels, but again, photos will really help. I suggest opening an imgur account which will help with that. I have a tutorial here which will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48799-posting-photos-using-imgur-101/

There are a few sellers there who make armor that can be approved at all levels (if built correctly, of course). One of them is AP (Authentic Props) who makes an awesome set and is on our "vetted" seller's list. Another quality kit there is from 850ArmorWorks. Be aware that there are also those on etsy who sell recast kits (copies of other people's work). These may be less expensive, but it's a case of "you get what you pay for" and in many instances the quality/customer service is just not there. If you are looking at one in particular, just add a link to the sales site and we can better help you.

First, you never have to apologize for any question, Adam! Each and every one of us had a million of em' during our builds, and that's what we are here for. The sanding drums usually come in 60 grit (coarse), 120 (medium) and 240 (fine). The 60 grit will remove a lot of material fast, so until you get the hang of using a Dremel (and you will, believe me) I would go with the 120 to start and the 240 to tighten up any details. To finish it off, I would use regular sandpaper (240), that way you can get a nice smooth finish.

Those eyes turned out great, Jeklyn! Really nice job!

OCD inclinations? Me? (Well, maybe just a bit),

Welcome, Ashley! Unfortunately, your imgur pics did not come though, and the link you included is only to your 501st profile. Since you have some issues posting the pics for your submission please PM me for for detailed info on how to post them so that we ca, "Move along"/ Thanks!

Looking INCREDIBLE, Eric...!! EXCELLENT work, brother.

Don't worry about the threads on the back of the ammo packs, as they are not seen

Daniel is spot-on about the return edges. Many like to keep them on in certain areas for that "thicker" armor look, but in fact in many places they were pretty much non-existent. They can also cause "armor bite", where they cut into you if not trimmed enough as well as splits/cracks. My overall disdain for them is pretty well known here, and I have a thread that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/?tab=comments#comment-670906

As Glen said, it depends a lot on what you want to use it for and your budget. If it's just for Halloween, comicons, etc. you can get a set of armor from eBay, etsy or the like fairly inexpensively. If you are interested in the joining the 501st Legion the quality has to be a lot better and more screen accurate than the vast majority of the ones you will find on those sites. Joining the Legion gives you the chance not only to enjoy wearing it at sanctioned events throughout the year with fellow TKs (and other assorted Star Wars characters) but to make a lot of new friends in the SW community and help raise money for some really worthwhile causes. However, the price for quality armor is higher... you get what you pay for. Plus there are other items that will need to be purchased, like boots ($60-$100), neck seal ($30-$50), under suit ($40-$80), gloves, holster, blaster, build supplies etc. If you do decide that you are interested in joining and can fit the costs into your budget I highly recommend it! We are asked to appear at charity, community and sporting events, parades, children's hospitals, etc. The first time you see a face light up (especially the kids) when seeing "real" Stormtroopers will make it all worthwhile. Trust me.

AWESOME to hear that you are headed for Level 3, Adam! You are correct, it's much easier to to during your build rather than later. This thread (link below) will show you some of the details we look for when approving at higher levels that may not be mentioned in the CRLs and has lots of screen captures. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/ I will be following your build thread, so keep the questions (no matter how small) and photos coming but remember: Take....... your..... time. Consider your build a marathon and not a sprint and you will be fine. Trust me.

Hi Adam, and congrats on starting your build! One thing first, though... the two sets of ears are different. If you look closely, one set has 4 "bumps" on the ear bars and the others have 3. While the ones with 3 bumps are acceptable at Basic level for ESB, for Level 2 (and for more screen accuracy) you should use the ones with 4. Hopefully you will consider building to the higher levels (Expert Infantry and Centurion) but even if not we are here to assist you every step of the way! I have a few tutorials under the bottom of my signature below that may be of help, especially during the trimming stage (return edges). Always feel free to ask us anything, and keep up the great work!

Donated!

To be honest, if I were a GML I would not pass them for a few reasons. Since this costume is basically a TK but with different colored armor the same basic requirements should apply as in ANH. As per the CRL, the boots hsould have a "Flat sole with a short heel". The sole is much thicker than a TK boot "should" be and is not flat (raised ridges). The heel is extended and also has prominent visible ridges on the bottom (like a work boot). There is also some sort of cloth seam that runs along the entire outside where the leather meets the rubber part. BUT, in saying that I am not familiar with how Special Ops approves their boots and they could very well pass them. Your best bet would be to ask there and get some more detailed advice or ask you local GML.

As Rowan mentioned the T-tracks and handle should not be weathered, but I wouldn't fret over it. The reason being is that it will pass at EI as is, but at Level 3 Hasbro blasters are not permitted. This one will definitely be good for trooping for the time being, but once your armor is approved you will have the time for your next project... a resin or 3D print E-11 for Centurion level!

I'm with you 100% on the holsters, but if we are going to split up the costumes I think that it depends on which one the trooper is going for. I have combed through a ton of images from each type, and I can only find one trooper sporting a holster on Endor. That could be an optional item for that CRL, but for the Death Star it seems that having one was the norm for the most part and should indeed be a requirement. Endor Death star/Cloud city For the reasons I mentioned in my last post here, I think TDs requirements should remain as they are for both types of costumes.

I have no issue if the interior sides are not painted white, but the rear "nipple" should be white, as should the rim (at least a little). I also see no problem with the screen being painted black.

Here is my take: The only few that were missing TD's were on Endor. Even then they were the minority. I agree that they were probably removed for those who's stunts required it so that they didn't fall on it, but since 99% were shown in the film wearing them they should stay standard and have the correct ROTJ plate. If someone chooses to wear their armor without one after approval that is up to them.

Ideally the cover strips should be the same on the biceps and forearms. If you are having an issue and need more room, there is an alternative. You can add an extra wide interior cover strip for the strength, and have a minimal overlap of the outside one on the edges. You will need to add some extra E-6000 (shown in blue) at the join to help hold the outside one on.

The position of lower ear screws is not an exact science, and the placement of the existing ones is fine, so just switch em' out and you will be golden. Try to make the heads sit as flush with the helmet as possible, though.

Hi Carlos, and welcome to the TRUE home of shiny white armor! Your decision to purchase a commission from RS is a wise one... you really can't get any more screen accurate, and their customer service is second to none! What I would suggest at this point is that once you get your Big Brown Box from them, try on the armor (you may need help with this) and post up some photos in our "Pre-approval" thread" located here. We can will help you with any details so that when you apply for Basic 501st approval you should pass on the first try. Note that RS builds their commission kits to Centurion level, so I hope you will consider taking your armor to the next level(s) by applying for the Expert Infantry Badge after initial approval and Centurion Level after that!