justjoseph63

We are still waiting to see the updated photos of the requested issues needed for approval as per the CRLs: 1. TD clips moved over. 2. Ab/kidney connection must be no more than 1/2 inch wide.

Does the base of your snap setting tool have a reverse side? (See the piece marked B in the first pic) It looks as if you have used the concave side to set the female part that attaches to the armor. Not sure if it the convex shape (pic 3) will cause any issues with adhesion, but if you do have that side I would recommend using it to keep the bottom of the snap flat. (Pic 2)

Overall a GREAT job on that armor, Robert! You should have no major issues getting basic approval, and I think I see a Centurion badge in your future should you (hopefully) consider that option! Awesome work on those ab/kidney connections and belt placement, btw. A few small items I would suggest for future reference are: 1. Make sure the knot in the white elastic on your shoulder bridges is on the inside. 2. Fix the back of the calves as Asa noted. Although it won't affect approval at any level, you should think about removing the return edges on the tops of your calves in the front. The reasons being is that those sharp edges can (and will) tear holes in your undersuit, and they can cause serious chafing on longer troops...trust me, lol. (It's also screen accurate). It looks as if you will have the room to do this without the tops becoming too loose. Reference image

Thanks for the kind words, Eric! You are definitely doing the right thing by getting ahead of the game, brother, especially in the research area. Most folks (myself included) ripped into our first BBB like a kid at Christmas then realized "Oh crap... I have to put this thing together", lol. As you have probably heard here before, take your time.... it's a marathon, not a sprint. And always feel free to ask questions. I see you are using imgur, and what I would suggest is posting the photos directly onto your thread as opposed to adding a link. To do this, go to your images page and click on the image you want to add. You will see a menu on the right with 6 options, Click the blue "COPY" tap next to the DIRECT LINK (second from the top), and then you can paste it on your thread. BUT, if you alter or delete the photo from your image library it will disappear from your thread. Best of luck on your white armor journey, and again, If I can be of any help just PM me.

Hi Jonathan, welcome and thank you for applying for your ANH-Stunt EIB. Let's take a look your armor. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All the required submission photos have been posted. Without further delay, your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. Tony and myself would like to congratulate you on your SECOND Expert Infantry badge! . Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestions may affect the application process, it will be listed separately in either the above EIB or below Centurion requirement sections. You look great, but we do have a few suggestions to get you looking even closer to screen accurate. First, fantastic job on that shoulder bridge fix.. it looks a LOT better! As mentioned, for level 3 I would suggest taking a new photo of your left rear calf closure with the sides lined up. It's a small item, but it's all about the overall look: Reference image The vertical AB button plate is a bit too long, and the corners need to be squared, not rounded to be canon. As long as you used E-6000 to attach it is should be pretty easy to remove and trim down. Remember, it's all about accuracy! Reference image Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EI, items pertaining to level 3 might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. You did a perfect trim job on the right wrist opening, but 20 seconds with a Dremel would make the left one match and bring it to where it needs to be be. As stated in the CRL,, "No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed". Reference image Although close, your ABS belt could stand to come up at least another 1/4 inch. As noted in the CRL " The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just below the bottom of the central and vertical Ab button panels". (Incredible trim job on that ABS belt, by the way)! Reference image In a few of your photos, you have the "wandering dropbox" (very common) which doesn't want to align with the edges of your ABS belt as required in the CRL. Level 3 is all about accuracy, and a dab of E-6000 behind the straps in the rear would remedy this and get you to where you need to be as stated in the CRL, "Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt...". Reference image The left side of your ab/kidney connection is absolutely textbook, but you still have a small gap on the right side. Raising the belt and tightening it up half an inch would take care of that. As stated in the CRL, "Ideally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor". Reference image Fantastic job overall, Jonathan, and one you should certainly be proud of! I look forward to seeing your level 3 submission for your SECOND Centurion achievement soon!

Hi Jon, welcome back and thank you for your Centurion application, so let's get you approved, shall we? CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All submission photos are present. Your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Centurion, so on behalf of Tony and myself I would like to say congratulations, Trooper! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Thank you for taking care of all the various issues, Jon. Making all of those changes wasn't easy I'm sure, but you really took the advice to heart and did an amazing job. Incredible work on moving those rivets and glad to see that you found replacements for the ABS belt button covers. Hopefully you will have inspired those in the same position to follow your example of "never give up"! Now get out there and make your Garrison proud!

I only posted this a few months ago, which is why you may not have seen it. The best diagram I have is from Jeff (wingnut65) of the Tampa Bay Squad (below). The only difference in mine is that I use 2 snaps on the shoulder bell to shoulder bridge connection.

As mentioned, you should have no problems getting basic approval with this kit, Robyn. If you are (hopefully) aiming for EI and Centurion you should have no major problems, just a few tweaks here and there. If I can be of any help, just PM me.

Hi Terry! As stated in the TKC CRL, the white edge does indeed need to be around all edges for basic approval. "A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges" While the ROTJ armor does not allow overlap construction, it is only required at level 3 for the TKC.

Hi Jonathan! Almost there, brother, I promise. One last thing I need is a clear shot of the fronts of your hand guards and we can get started on your approval. Thanks!

RASCZAKS Roughnecks!

Wow! Gotta' give you a big THUMBS UP for jumping on those suggestions from your EI submission, Jon! Two quick things and we will be ready to rock and roll, brother: 1. Please add the mandatory: a. Armor Maker b. Helmet Maker c. Blaster Type 2. As you know, Centurion level is the top tier of approvals, so we ask you to go above and beyond. I can see that you have done that, (especially with the rivets and TD plate... AWESOME job!) but I will ask for one more thing which should be fairly easy: Please raise your ABS belt up just a bit. We realize that in the films some of them sit a bit farther down than most, but for our purposes the top of the ABS belt should ride a bit higher on the ab as seen in the reference photo below. Almost there, sir, and THANKS! The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just below the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Reference image Reference image

This is not an uncommon thing to happen, Oliver. In my opinion, you can fix this pretty easily as Frank mentioned. Just glue some small scraps of ABS behind the holes, whip up a tiny batch of ABS paste, carefully fill them (but not too much.. just until the hole is filled) and let that dry overnight. Then, sand down the areas until they are level, polish out the tops with a product like NOVUS, and you will be good shape to re=drill the holes in the correct place. If done correctly, you should have zero problems reaching basic approval (or even EI and Centurion if you are hopefully aiming for those). Here are some links that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit-2-oz-New-Scratch-Remover-Polish-Mate-Wipes/312016998291?hash=item48a5a98f93:g:noUAAMXQROxRFaeo:sc:USPSFirstClass!33897!US!-1

REALLY nice job on that armor, Jonathan! Tony or I will be with you shortly, but in the meantime, could you add the following photos for me? Thanks!! 1. Left side detail (arms raised) 2. Right side detail (arms raised) 3. Action shot.

The email I received was from Casey, and the address was [email protected] Hope this helps!

Good call, my friend. Extended!

That's for sure, Gary! A thoroughly enjoyable (and informative) read!

Alright, Troopers, it's time for another contest! What we are looking for is a short story about your favorite troop. It could be one that was unusual, heartfelt, funny, etc. and should be at least one paragraph in length Photos of the event would be a bonus! The contest will run until Midnight, July 15th, and the winner will be announced on July 20th. So what is the prize, you ask?! Randy (magni) and myself are supplying the First prize, which will be a new hardcover copy of the latest book by NY Times bestselling author Ryder Windham "STORMTROOPERS: BEHIND THE ARMOR". Mr. Windham is also the author of over 60 SW related books and comics. ---------- Second prize will be an official 501st Legion decal. So, one more time, here are the rules: 1. Should be at least one paragraph in length. 2. Must be submitted ON THIS THREAD by midnight, July 10th, 2018. 3. Judging by Imperial Attaches/Staff. 4. Winner will be notified on July 15th, 2018. 5. Any questions should be asked here. GOOD LUCK!

Do you think you trimmed too much off of the sides or the return edges? The return edges can be completely removed if needed and will not affect approval at any level. If you can post a photo that would be great!

There are no specific types of screws that must be used in those areas, Alex. I used 2 different sizes of screws myself, but in some areas I used covers for them which can be purchased at Lowe's or Home depot in the hardware dept., (not a necessity, though).------------ I used small screws for the plate attachment (green arrow), larger ones (red arrow) for the rest. The cone is the only place I used "pop" rivets, (blue arrow).

Nice job on that, Gary! Hopefully that will do the trick.

I just ordered my third DD E-11 resin kit a little over a week ago, and for the first time I actually received an email stating that it had been sent, along with a tracking number, WOW! I know in the past that DD has not had the best reputation for communications (to say the least), and shipping times to the U.S. could take up to 8 weeks or more, but it seems they have changed their tune for the better, happy to say. On a side note, I also ordered another one of Tino's awesome E-11 finishing kits which (of course) arrived in less than a week!

Sorry for the late reply, Dave, but the N40 are just fine and create a great bond without being too powerful. Great question!!!

Or Cheetos, lol. Just ask Glen (gmrhodes13), I think he is up to 20 different costumes!

E-6000 is the choice of most troopers for the fact that it stands the test of time and can be removed if needed. Yes, it takes 12-24 hours to cure, but unlike CA (super) glue, it will never become brittle. Also, if you get CA glue on your armor, (like a drip) it will have to be sanded off, E-6000 can be a LOT more easily removed.