justjoseph63

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Great to hear that we have another HWT headed for the ranks, and especially that you will be aiming for levels 2 and 3! Once you get your basic HWT approval, you can post up your Expert Infantry submission here and we can get started. If I can be of any help, just let me know.

SUPER nice job on those repairs, but we still need the close up of the TD showing the screws. Thanks!

Perfect! One of us will be with you shortly, sir.

Thanks for your submission, Wesley! One of us will be with you shortly, sir, so hang in there.

MUCH better, and thanks for the updated photos! We still need a few more of the required pics, though: 1. Ab details (close up of ab button plates). 2. Cod-posterior plate attachment (showing snaps/connections). 3. Helmet (only)- Front, back and both sides. 4. TD back- You have one posted now, but we need a closer shot. SO CLOSE! As soon as you get those in we can get started, brother.

Hi Eric , thank you for your EI application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. On behalf of the D.O. Staff, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Really nice job on this build, Eric, but there are a few areas that could use little work to make this armor look it's absolute best. These are not requirements, but the higher levels are all about screen accuracy, and are highly suggested items to bring you closer to that should you choose to do so. 1. The inside of the eye openings could be opened up some more at the corners. 2 minutes with a round needle file would work wonders. Reference image 2. Your tube stripes are farther away from the top of the tube than normal. They should be about a pencil width from the bottom of the cheek. Reference image 3. The paint on the top of the vocoder bumps could definitely stand to be defined more. A filbert style brush makes it super easy, and if you decide to do this, I would use a satin or semi-gloss finish paint and re-do the whole thing. Should take about 5 minutes.... easy peasy. Reference image Filbert style brush 4. Your right side bicep needs to be dropped about 3/4 inch or so to where it aligns with the one on the left. This will even out the gap at the right wrist as well. There should be about a half inch gap between the top of the forearm and the bottom of the bicep. Adjusting the strapping should take care of this, no problem. Reference image 5. More of a side note, really, but it looks as if the clear protective film is still on the front of your left drop box. Easiest repair ever! 6. The trim job at the top of your left thigh is spot-on, but the top of the cover strip on the right one is too squared off and could use some "Dremel love". I'm surprised this doesn't cut into you while walking! Reference image 7. The back of your right thigh could really use some adjusting. Right now the top of the cover strip is too far off center, and it should run straight up and down. Reference image You also seem to have a larger than average gap at the rear, causing the top to jut out. Reference image Lastly, the rise where the cover strip ends at the top (like a point) could be trimmed down quite a bit and still be screen accurate. This would make it a lot more comfortable I promise. Reference image This is what I would suggest to take care of all 3 issues, Eric: Remove the rear cover strip on the right thigh. Cut out a wedge shape (as seen with the red dotted lines in the first photo on #6). Line up the connection (it should be nearly vertical), trim the top and then re-glue the cover strip. It will take some work of course, but I think the results would look miles better. Don't get discouraged, though. On my first EI submission I had a LOT more work to do... (danged near had to tear my entire build apart, but it was well worth it). I have the confidence that you can do a great job! 8. Not the biggest deal, but the cover strips on your left thigh/calf could line up a bit better. Reference image 9. The trim work on your ab button plates is spectacular, but the paint on the buttons themselves is a bit wide. There should actually be a tiny amount of the bottom of the buttons left unpainted. Reference image 9. To close things out, I noticed that you used snaps with a gun-metal finish. These should be either the brass or nickel plated (silver). Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. 1. The lower ear screws will need to be replaced with the flat V-head type. Reference image Other than those areas, nothing to add, Trooper. You may have some work in front of you, but I'm sure you are up to the challenge!

I haven't used Loctite putty, but being an epoxy type adhesive there will be a nasty smell for a while but it should work. The only thing is that they will be mounted permanently, but then again you really should never have to take them out. I used SUGRU to mount the lenses in all my buckets, as I prefer the color (black), no smell, and they are removable if you ever need to do that. I think it may be less messy as well, because if you get epoxy on the lenses while mounting them it may be difficult to remove. I have a tutorial that may help either way you do it: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44593-how-to-attach-lenses-using-sugru/

Nice job so far, Abe! In looking at yours alongside an original, you are on the right track, sir. A few tweaks here and there and you should be in good shape.

If you have the time and space, Tim, I recommend making all your own strapping. It is not that hard to do as long as you have the right equipment, which can be purchased at Lowe's (soldering iron), snap setting tool (Michaels) and nylon/elastic/Tandy snaps (Joannes fabrics or eBay). Imperial Boots has two different types of strapping kits available, the EZ kit and the TK ("Classic") system. The EZ kit connects things with Velcro. Not recommended. With the other, the brackets are screen accurate but you will still need to make your own strapping for other areas besides the torso anyway. Being as you are building two kits at once, you will probably be better off ordering/buying the nylon, elastic and such in bulk. I have a link to a tutorial under my avatar below that can help, and if you have any questions, just let us know!

For future reference, I sell sets of 10 (with washers) at my cost plus shipping, $3.50. Have been selling those for about 2 1/2 years. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34902-centurion-level-rivet-sets-for-sale/

Just noticed this thread, Brien.... WOW! Incredible job on those shims, brother.

It comes down to "eyeballing" it. Just don't use more ABS paste than you need to fill the gap.

Just the exterior, lol. I had a little too much free time on my hands a while back and wanted to go all out, so I used 3-D printed parts from files obtained from Leonardo (Ed Straeker) to do that. It's not screen accurate at all, but is based on what a TK helmet would look like if it were "real", so to speak as seen in the cutaway image (below) that it is based on. I took a bit of artistic license with it. Hint: When building your helmet, it really helps to look at some of the approved Centurion submission threads in the Advanced Tactics area to see what we are looking for, as well as common issues that need to be corrected. When in doubt, always ask before moving ahead.

I have Plasti-dip in two of my buckets but went with black craft foam for my Hero (seen below). When using the Plasti-dip, be sure to sand down the inside with 120 grit sandpaper and then clean it thoroughly before applying, which will give it something to cling to. Otherwise it can peel off.

"I also have yet to purchase my dark green lenses as well as fans, black-out material, and S-gaskets for the helmet". I'm not positive, but I think Walt includes the green lenses as S-trim in his kit, (hopefully someone can clarify that) so you may want to hold off on ordering those, Jake. What do you mean by "blackout material"?

Sounds great! If you need any assistance or advice, just let us know.

There are a few other small issues, but as of now you are looking good. Thanks for the updated pics, and just waiting on the photos of you sporting those shoulder bells!

Looking MUCH better, sir! The only thing (besides the rivet paint) that is holding you back at this point is the decals on your left shoulder bell. I know that the UKG allows them, (and I honestly wish I could get away with wearing one) but for levels 2 and 3 they are not permitted.

Question.. will these be available as files that can be downloaded/printed, or just as a finished product?

Mark is spot-on there, Davin. The correct widths for the front and back of the thighs and front of the calves should be right at 20 mm. The rear of the calf can be 25 mm because of the Velcro connection. On occasion there is a need to have wider cover strips at the back of the thighs for larger Troopers, but as Mark mentioned you don't have that issue, and also as he suggested the flat surfaces on either side of the cover strips should be minimal, as seen in the reference images below. Reference images You will also need to address one more issue before we can proceed, which is that the rear cover strip on your left calf is on the wrong side. As stated in the CRL for basic approval, "The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg". Don't let this get you down or dissuade you from making the necessary changes, Davin, as overall you have done a fine job on this set of armor. It may take a bit of time to address the above issues, but you are well on your way and I have every confidence that you will do a great job so that we can move forward with your submission!

As Aaron mentioned, your sales post is indeed pinned: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45807-imperial-gaskets/ When doing a search of Imperial Gaskets and selecting Topics, your threads are listed at the top (first two): https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=Imperial Gaskets&type=forums_topic

There are a few options, but if you have the funds I would definitely consider one of these: ----------- Shawn makes some excellent packs, and I can personally recommend him as as a seller.

Hi Davin, and thank you for your EI submission! As Tino mentioned, before we can proceed you will need to post up the required photos. Thanks, and looking forward to seeing the rest of them!

Unfortunately no holsters are allowed for HWT approval, even at basic level, but you can always carry it just like you would an E-11.