justjoseph63

This is what I would do, Adi: 1. Right now you have a tiny bit of return edge on the ends. I suggest trimming all of that off, which will make them easier to bend into place. (Photo 1). Note how in photo 3 that there is no return edge at all. 2. Make an interior cover strip from ABS (or any heavy duty white plastic). This should be wider** than the exterior one as seen below (photo 2). 3. After trimming to size, use E-6000 to glue the strip in and clamp it firmly while it dries (24 hours to be safe). 4. After it dries it should hold the sides into the correct arc. 5. Re-attach the exterior strip, glue, clamp and let it dry. **The interior strip can be as wide as you need, and will not affect approval at any level. ** Photo 1 Photo 2 Reference image

Just a note to day GREAT job on those changes, sir! It's always fantastic to see someone who takes suggestions to heart and wants to have an awesome looking set of armor. Well done!

Nice job, Adi! Although not all specifically mentioned in the CRLs, there are a few issues that may hold you up. Remember that the D.O.s also use reference images from the films as a guide when reviewing submissions for approval and these items may be mentioned: The brow trim on the left is perfect, but on the right side it is a bit askew and should be raised. Reference image Your forearms (especially the right one) are really wide. What you might want to think about is removing the rear cover strips, trimming them a bit and then re-attach the strips. Reference images For level 3, you will need to change out (or remove the black finish) on your posterior snaps. As seen in the films, they should be silver/chrome: Reference image The D.O.s may have other items to discuss, but as I mentioned a really nice overall job on this build, brother! Just a few items to think about which I am sure you can handle. See you at Centurion soon, Trooper!

There really wasn't a list of them, James, so I created a thread just now that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47307-list-of-soft-parts-for-your-build/

This list is for Original Trilogy (OT) builds. ANH, ESB and ROTJ) For those who are about to embark on a TK build, in addition to the kit itself and the supplies you will need** to do that we are often asked about other items to complete the ensemble and get approved. These are known as "soft parts", and include the holster, under suit, boots, gloves, neck seal and canvas belt. Be aware that some armorers may include one or more of these items with their kit, but some do not. Also be aware that just because the seller includes them it does not always mean that they are the correct type/style and are eligible for approval (especially at higher levels). When in doubt, always ask your armorer which items are part of the package or feel free to ask here if you have doubts/questions. We are here to help! If there is a particular soft part you need, below is a list of "tried and true" vendors who have an excellent reputation, as well as suggestions for where to get other pieces or even make your own! NOTE: If you are a vendor and would like to add your sales thread here or you have a tutorial on how to make your own please PM me before posting here. **https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/page/11/ White Canvas Belt: NOTE: not all belts are created equal! The belts used in the films were firm and sturdy with no creasing or sagging. Vendor- Rob Kittel https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-white-canvas-belt Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/665-howto-a-guide-to-making-a-canvas-bel Neck Seal: Vendor: Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/headgear-neck-seals/stormtrooper-neck-seal Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34548-10-diy-neck-seal-v1/ Holster: NOTE: Holster straps differ for various costumes. Please see the CRL for your particular style here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Vendor- Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/ Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/ammo-pouches/stormtrooper-genuine-leather-blaster-holster Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ Boots: Vendor: Keep Trooping https://keeptrooping.com/product/421-classic-white/ NOTE: Imperial boots are 100% approvable at every level, but they only open once a month for orders. They can run a bit small, so I suggest ordering a half size larger than what you normally wear. Vendor: Crowprops https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tkclassic-short-boots NOTE: Crowprops are 100% approvable at every level. Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27565-how-i-did-my-boots-tkboots-alternative/ Under Suit: Under suits can be purchased from many sources, and you have the choice of one or two piece types. I have found Amazon to be among the least expensive sources. The easiest thing to do is visit that site and search for it, for instance "Mens compression suit top black long sleeve". Examples: Mens compression suit top black long sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+top+black+long+sleeve&ref=nb_sb_noss Mens compression suit pants black- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+pants+black&ref=nb_sb_noss Vendor Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-sandtrooper-black-undersuit NOTE: While some prefer the one-piece type, the two piece tends to be better when you have to... uhhh, let's just say "answer nature's call". IMPORTANT! When ordering an under suit, be aware that many have printed logos, white stitching etc. These can not be visible while wearing your armor. Hand guards (Flexible) Vendor: justjoseph63 - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-flexible-hand-guards-for-centurion-level/ Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/flexible-hand-guards-in-white-black-or-plain Gloves: NOTE: As per the CRL for Basic 501st OT TK approval, gloves must be all black with no visible straps/logos/designs and can be rubber, Nomex, leather or a leather-like material. For Level 2 (Expert Infantry) and Level 3 (Centurion) they must be made of rubber or a rubber-like material. I highly suggest finding ones with a long wrist, which prevents it from sliding out from underneath your forearm armor. Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/accurate-trooper-black-latex-gloves Vendor: justjoseph63- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ eBay is also an alternative. Just search Black Nomex (or leather, rubber etc.) gloves. Be sure when ordering the rubber type from eBay that you are purchasing the heavier duty type and not the disposable kind. Thigh Garter system: Vendor: Pencap510 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/ NOTE: These are not a requirement, but they are AWESOME! Pauldrons- (For Heavy Weapons Troopers) Vendor: Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/

OK folks, As mentioned previously, due to the fact that the CRLs are being updated we will be replacing the models as well to reflect the new changes as each category is completed. In order to clarify some of the requirements, we will be adding additional photos (side views, etc.) to the existing front/back images. Please note that it may take some time to get these photos posted on the 501st site. Just changing the text is quite a job, so thanks for bearing with us. Below are the Troopers who will be the new models for the first round (except ROTJ). They have gone above and beyond with their builds, and their armor expresses their "esprit de corps". On behalf of the entire Staff, I would like to congratulate all 3! 1. ANH Stunt- Wayne Winfield, TK 32945 "Waynocerous" (Centurion) from the UK Garrison 2. ANH Hero- Eric Ho, TK 77520 "Hoda" (Centurion) from the Star Garrison 3. ESB- Arthur Wong, TK 39093 "giskard8" (Centurion) from the Hong Kong Garrison 4. ROTJ- To be announced (awaiting photos).

Hi Jennifer! They are being done at this very moment, and should be up quickly. Is this the page (located on the 501st site) that you are looking at? http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Note that those may still be the existing CRLs, but you may be asked by your GML when you submit for basic approval to adhere to the new ones. There are just a few minor changes for basic approval so you should be good to go.

As mentioned, do not paint them, Michael. The exterior color (silver/chrome) will in fact be a requirement in the new CRL updates. Ones that are painted white are occasionally accepted by some GMLs for Basic approval, but for EI and Centurion they must have a silver(ish) finish. The inside parts of the snaps can be any color (within reason, lol).

No need for that, Larry. The more pictures the merrier! It is important to keep all your build questions/photos in one area, that way not only can you keep track, but others who may be following it and have similar issues can learn from it.

"Now for the front I know it's low but, even at this height it's against my unmentionables and rubbing my inner thighs". You can (and should) trim all the return edges off of the cod. Once that is done, use some fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the edges.

Okay Troopers (and future Troopers), If you have kept up on recent events here, you are aware that the updated changes in the CRLs for ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, ESB and ROTJ will take effect on June 1st. We understand that many of you may have started your build before that date, and in order to avoid confusion and possibly causing you to have to make changes, we are allowing those in that scenario to adhere to the existing CRL guidelines. There are some conditions, though: 1. You must have started (and documented) your build here on the FISD prior to June 1st. 2. You will have until September 1st (approximately 90 days) of this year to submit for Expert Infantry and then Centurion if you opt to go for higher levels with that particular set of armor. 3. We took into consideration that an average set of armor takes approximately 3 months (or less) to build and that "life happens", but if you find that it will be taking longer than the 90 days, you will be required to contact the D.O. staff if you are aiming for EI or Centurion and explain your situation. After that date, you will be required to follow the requirements as per the updated CRL. If you have already started your build and would like to include the new updates, you are more than welcome (and encouraged) to do so. If you have met the above guidelines and would like to use the existing CRL, we suggest that you print a copy before June 1st, as these will not be available to view on the 501st site after that.

In a perfect scenario, the cover strips on the front of the thighs should extend all the way from the top down to the top of the bottom ridge. Since you may not have extra ABS strips to replace those, you should be able to fill in the gap(s) with ABS paste, which would give you a cleaner look. "I also have noticed a gap on the thigh pieces, I figured all I would need to do is use the abs paste to fill those up, sand, and buff it out. Would this look bad? Is there another way I should approach it"? Unless they are loose, I would leave them as is. Keep the questions coming!

Welcome, Larry, and congrats on your build thread! I realize that you want to get your armor built as soon as possible, but it's paramount that you don'r rush. Consider it more of a marathon than a sprint. Trust me, it will pay off in the end. I'll start you out with a few suggestions, and I'm sure others will add some as well, but keep asking as many questions as you like and posting photos! 1. Since you will be eventually aiming for Centurion, I would go ahead and remove the return edge on your wrists before you glue them together. This includes the area in the "hump". You can also remove those edges in a lot of other places and still be screen accurate. You can also remove those edges in a lot of other places and still be screen accurate. Note how the "scoop" is cut out on the top of the forearm below. This keeps that return edge from cutting into you while bending your arm (holding your E-11). You should also remove that entire area on the top(s) of the thighs. I suggest removing all the return edges from the tops. As they are now that point will poke into you and possibly snag your undersuit, plus, removing those edges will stop possible cutting into and chafing in your, uh... well let's just say "nether regions". As for the ABS paste, this is what I suggest: 1. Make it to about the consistency of toothpaste. 2. Put a piece of painter's tape behind the hole(s)... (stops it from leaking through). 3. Add just enough to fill the hole with a tiny bit extra. Do NOT overfill it too much. 4. Wait 24 hours for it to dry, then sand down with fine grit sandpaper until smooth. 5. Polish out the scratches with NOVUS or a similar product.

いいね！ うまくいけば、彼はあなたがあなたの提出を終えるのに必要な情報を手に入れるのを手伝うことができます。 あなたのイベントで楽しんでください！

Nice job on this armor, Ardshir! One thing you will need to do before the D.O.s can move forward with your submission is to change out the screws on your TD. As per the current CRL requirements for level 2: Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip). Reference image You will probably be asked to include a photo showing the D-ring on the rear of your blaster as well. There are a few other small items, but the D.O.s will go over those in your review. See you at EI soon, Trooper!

I first visited here 6 years ago and really liked the area. Central FL. was getting too crowded, so when the better half retired from working for the Mouse I sold my construction business and we decided to move here. Lots to do, great people, and a nice area in general. Now, all I have to do is find a new friend with a boat big enough to get out in the Atlantic for some serious fishing!

WOW, A.J.!! As a fellow AM owner I can say that you have really conquered that issue with finesse. The extra time you spent certainly made a huge difference, and this will be an invaluable reference for those with this issue. As I mentioned in my PM, you should add this as a tutorial, no doubt! GREAT job! I see a Centurion badge under your name in the near future, brother.

Looks so much different with that angle, Simon! The length you have glued on to the chest plate tabs is identical on both sides, it's just the angle that was throwing me. It's not that obvious in the new photos, so you should be good to go, sir. Side note: You won't be sorry you went with the 2 mm ABS. Your armor is going to be built like a tank!

Looking GREAT, Simon! I am SO stealing that magnet on the belt idea, lol. I did notice one small thing (and it may just be a wonky camera angle) but it appears that your shoulder straps are a little uneven. Once you kit-up it may not be noticeable, but though I'd give you a heads-up. Looking forward to seeing the whole ensemble!

That is the one! I still have a few mods to do (like adding the "recharging station" for the extra power cylinders) but almost there. Due to the limited amount of space I had to make it smaller than I wanted and it's too long to hang vertically. At least I don't have to store them in the closet anymore, lol. Now I have my own little Fortress of solitude".

SUPER nice job on that butt plate/kidney connection and vocoder fix, Eddie! Like Daniel mentioned, the teeth could use a little more work (you are almost there, brother) but I also wanted to give you a big on your side rivet placement. Looking sharp!

Hi Michael! You have a few issues that will more than likely be brought up by your GML and a few that may not. As per the CRL for Basic approval, "The greaves (calves) close in the back". This is done via Velcro or hooks. The thighs also have this same requirement and should be permanently closed (glued) in the back, and yours look to have a pretty good sized gap. The rear cover strips should ideally be centered on the backs of the thighs, as shown in green. It appears that you have quite a bit of space in the tops, so they could be cut down/brought in to closer achieve this. As mentioned, your GML will make the final decision but there are some minor fitment issues that should be easy to adjust to help you look your best. The front cover strips on the thighs/calves should (again.. ideally) line up, and the gaps on both sides of the cod would look better if they are consistent. Hope this helps, and I hope to see you as a new TK proudly serving the GLG and the Empire soon!

Even the outside didn't escape being tagged, lol.

I've still got 2 big boxes full!