Mcott65

Best method I found for removing the black was to use one of those sponges with green scouring pad. Dip in the acetone and lightly scrub then use some cloth I used old tshirt to wipe the area down dip the cloth a bit as well it will help get the softened polish of . When I did mine I used about three tshirts and four sponges .Just keep going back over till the boot starts to show grey ,that's the leather under the Polish, just take time over it and the dye will stick well . Don't worry about removing all the black you won't or at least I couldn't. Good luck.

I used acetone to prep my boots but don't put to much on in one go I softened the toe on the right one. I used a fabric paint for the elastic maker Tulip colour snow I got it from hobbycraft. Sorry don't know about angelus but I wou say try it and see.

Hi Bob Troopermaster is a great armour looking forward to seeing your progress

They look very similar to the jodhpurs that I used should be fine, the leather one's i mean. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30033-white-leather-dye/

First post on the thread there is a PDFs download check that out I am using those plans.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/ Try this

My wife said that this was her favorite armour at NSC. Very distinctive looking forward to your build

Nice work Mark look forward to seeing your helmet .

Managed to get some more work done on my lid. Fitting the ears , first i measured inside the round part 10mm up and marked this off every 20mm or so . Then using a snap blade (stanly knife) trimmed this round to the pencil marks i made. Then started marking off the curved area and trimming still using the knife. Trim, fit, mark, repeat front and back. Once i got to this point the knife was put away and out came the sanding sticks and small metal files to finetune the edge. Inside the ear where the screw goes through to give more suport to the plastic i added a washer held tight to the screwhead with a nut. Quite pleased with how they turned out.

Maybe they are really lucky and the garbage compactor came out right where they stashed there clothes. Guided by the force? Or perhaps there clothes were found when r2 and 3po were discovered and just happen to be thrown out into the same garbage compactor they end up in .Deleted scene?

Very easy to follow step by step instructions great post . This is the point I am at now so thank you gazmosis.

This will be a slow build i am afraid with only getting to do a few hrs now and again wife,work and my two year old permitting. BOX TIME Ok now for a peek inside. Thanks Paul aka Troopermaster looks amazing. Inside of the helmet was masked off and painted black satin auto spray paint then trimmed, that way i did`nt have to worry about overspray through eyes or frown holes. I have only put one coat of paint on vocoda and frown just so i could see how it looked. Any coments or observations please.

Thanks Dday forgot to mention that I have added a webbing pull to the zip for that very reason

Some feedback appreciated just to make sure this is ok. Thanks

This is how i have made my neck seal, using jacket lining satin. First i made a pattern out of paper by wraping it around my neck and penciling a rough outline around my jaw, making the mark even by folding in half and cuting my new line. This was used to make a backing to fasten the tubes to.All edges were hemmed to stop freying. I then cut strips of the material to cover the 6mm fish tank pump tubing i used( if i did this again i would go for something softer like silicone tubing used for nitro rc cars) This was folded over and sewn to form a tube, leaving the excess on so they could be sewn to the backing. Nine lengths of tube were cut to length adding an extra inch just to be sure, and four smaller ones to make the jawline. The first four were sewn at the ends following the angle of the cut out in the backing piece. The tubing in them was also cut to the same angle then inserted into the covering. The pieces were then sewn onto the backing makeing sure that each tube was pushed up tight to the one above. Once all the tubes were in place the ends on one side were stiched over to close the covering then tested for fit before closing the other side. Then a zipper was added. Then using a tee shirt to make a template i cut out the bib part as this is for my ANH TM Hero build. The bib is made from three parts one front and two halfs for the back ,the back two should overlap in the middle to allow for the zipper. Once the neck was stiched to the bib and the zipper sewn in then all the edges were hemmed. then two pieces of elastic were sewn to the bottom corners front to back to keep it nice and tight around my tummy. I hope that this helps someone.

http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Check this out should help

Mathias is right but the answer to your question about having the armour built for you is down to two things that only you can say do you have the cash or would you feel satisfaction from building it yourself. People will help you with any build problems you may find yourself with good luck.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29002-how-to-reverse-uv-damage-on-armor/ This thread might be worth a look.

I would suggest you mark the area on the ear where it touches with a soft pencil or something like that and then sand the marked parts down and just keep refitting until you are happy with the shape.

Does the holster need to be constructed from one piece of leather or would it be accepted made from two pieces a front and back. I'm Thinking stitched at the front on the left side as normal and stitches to the back side /inside for the other side.

http://www.japspeed.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/g/l/gloves_1.jpg

If I had to guess i would say they are motor cross gloves.

What material is the pipe because that looks so much sturdier than the waist pipe I've used? Never mind just read the top of this post aluminium.

Do you think that vaders skull is still in the melted helmet?

Dead right