Mcott65

Hi Richard loving the build I was wondering about hook sizes also but they look like a good. The humbrol won't need thinning if its anything like mine but white spirit will thin it and also clean up any mistakes.

Dave I think you will find you no longer need to scuff to pass EIB or Centurion. So you can have that just out of the quartermasters shine.

Hi again Jefferson as I said previously I'm building TM at the moment and I'm 5'9" my waist size is 35 inch and I am about 13 stone don't know what that is in lbs. I don't think I will have to shim my sides ,calf's are just the right length as are arms and body. The only place I think will need adjusting are my thighs bit to long for me. But you may find you have shorter calfs and long thighs shorter body longer legs untill you get your hands on it and measure up i don't think you'll known. But I think that some adjustments somewhere are inevitable.

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/</a> <br> This should help.

No.<br> some folk on here and some armour makers do commission builds sure that someone will let you know who.

Rs propmaster or Troopermaster I would say. <br> Rs is screen used cast and Tm is sculpted very accurate.

Don't worry Chris these pics were taken so i have a rough idea of what it's looking like. I have put the abs shoulder straps on now and that makes it sit right under my chins. Will be posting more photos soon.

Hi Jefferson I think that I am right in saying that you will find most armour will fit you . I'm 5'9" and am in the process of building Troopermaster armour some areas fit straight away and some need to be adjusted. Think you will find that with most armour. If you check out the centurion threads at the Top of each one they give height ,weight, armour make so that may give you some idea of what others your height are using. Hope that helps.<br> Also check out this thread <br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/</a>

Just found this they do it in white not sure if it could be usefull. -----------

Thanks Paul hope I am doing justice to your fantastic kit.

Just for some confirmation do the shoulder straps sit with five bumps stuck to the chest part?<br> Thanks

That is where I started my build if you are happy to start on it why not.Paul you kit is fantastic and I felt that trimming the helmet was quite straightforward because of that.

OK so its been quite a while scince my last up date and i have made quite a bit of progress so first up my lid still not put the tube stripes on yet or the mic tops in but here are some pics of where i am up to. All the grey and black detail added Seven lines in the tears and thirteen in the traps. I found the best way to freehand them was to add the two outside lines first then the center line and fill the others in by adding a dot top and bottom of where i wanted the lines and once happy with how they looked spaceing wise painted down from the top dot to the bottom one . Ok so before i painted, the area was roughed up with a sanding stick i use for modeling think it is 1000 grit. I caught the helmet in a couple of places so wanted to remove the scratches here is what i did. Sorry about the advertising other files are available . This is a polishing stick or they are sometimes called polishing sponges. Used for model aircraft canopy cleanup. First using the rougher side sand the scratches out you are left with a slightly dull area. Then polish up the area and like new. So that is where my lid is up to at the moment. Thermal detonator parts . The inside edge marked up at 18mm this made the outside measurement 20mm. Using the markes on the cutting board to get a level to cut the sides of the control panel to. Yes that looks ok carry on. Grey tube cut to size just under 190mm. Tube marked at both ends just under 18mm then this area was sanded down to take the end caps. Holes marked on the two brackets for the TD. Brackets being bent into shape. Once they were bolted into position i measured 3inces down from the end and using a piece of brass i found in my stash bent them over. Then added a second bend about 1inch from the end. So it ended up like this . Not happy with that i added a second bend. Better. My belt two lengths of 3inch white elastic sewn together at the edges . White canvas folded over and sewn at just over 3inches to form a tube. Canvas turned out and the elastic thredded through. The seem is just off center at the back of the belt so that poppers etc don`t go through it. Finnished off with stiching to the edges. The ends i have left open at the moment untill final fitting. One or two snap plates set up. Rough pencil marks for trimming. First fitting of the arms tight round my hand loose in the wrist. This has been corected some what now by sanding the return edge away compleatly and smoothing the end so minimal skin removal. The elbow end of the forearm thes are just a first trimm so i can finetune when fitting. These are the tools i have used to mark out and trim the main bulk of my return edges. Test fitting parts on my body double. Washing my butt in the kitchen sink All the parts once trimmed and sanded got a rinse in the sink. Ab buttons glued on. Split rivet placement my own measurement looked about right. Han snap placement again this measurement is to match the snap plate on the kidney so may be different to others. Butt snaps first one is 15mm center from the edge. Trimmed up body parts.(Saw ) Holes in the kidney plate matched to the ab plate holes.For split rivets. Should have marked my second snap from the inside not the outside. OOps Han snap. Ok so now first test fit my wife helped she said "yes looks great " DON`T trust her. People with heart conditions or week stomachs please consult your doctor befor viewing the followin images. You have been warned. How she could not see the side was not straight i will never know. That is all for now.

I upgraded a friends with an ultra bright red led just a straight swap cut the old one of and solder the new one on think they are 3mm

I have one of these they were on offer a while back in Asda for £20 Jane here on the board posted about them I've seen one or two people with them . Everything fits in a treat.

In the process of building my 2mm Troopermaster personally I think that you would have to be seriously throwing yourself about to bend this enough to crack or split it also I think that the detail is plenty sharp enough and when it is being trooped in it definitely stands out. That is a 2 mm Troopermaster in my avatar.

I'm Not sure but are the cover strips curved on the front

Looking good Chris ,can't believe how much black comes off these boots but you seem to have seriously striped them down.

Thanks Steve that helps just wanted to know I'm doing it right.

As the title suggests I want to fit my hovi's but want to make sure that I am putting the hole in the best place. Any tips

The grey you are after is humbrol gloss grey no5 you should depending upon where you live find it in your local model hobby shop .

Yes they are a bit like wearing dress shoes when I am nearly always in trainers or my toetectors both of which are wide fitting.

I'm a Uk size 11 and that is what I orderd I think they are only just an 11 as my heel to toe is a snug fit also, with my heel right to the back my toe is nearly touching and a narrow fit . Thy are not uncomfortable just close fitting. I have not really walked around in them to much yet but think after a bit of breaking in they will be fine,

Hi Chris yes my boots are the same with the seam in back but I had not seen it until you pointed it out, the boots are loose fitting in that area but snug fit in the width nothing a bit of wearing in won't fix i don't think.

Not boring at all . Very clear instructions on how to make snap plates thanks.