ZeroRoom

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Definitely not! The hyperfirm is much more accurate. If there was a nice repository of E-11 pics from every angle all our lives would be easier! The best thing to do (not to sound like a broken record) is browse the Blaster and BFG section - focus on real Sterling builds like Jesse's or Marv's and look at those. Also look at Vern's threads. It's also probably worth checking out the RPF as well for good reference pics from Star Wars exhibitions, but many of those are posted here in the blaster section too. Read enough of those threads and you'll really start getting to know the E-11!

This is some impressive level of detail for a Hasbro Mod. Nice skills sir. I think after this you are going to find a pipe build or a scratch build an absolute walk in the park.

According o this thread here: ----------- It's 22mm Hope I'm not too late!

Brian's right. It's not a tech issue - you need to have 501st member status to post a new thread or reply in the centurion threads. You can request 501st trooper status here: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16

These shots are fantastic:

It really wouldn't be hard at all - all you need is a piece of PVC pipe or dowel with a suitable OD to fit the doopy doos barrel casing interior and cut it to size... It'd probably take all of two minutes. I've never built a doopy doos kit but it is annoying that they provide a half breech bolt casting, however if you buy Deac Sterlings in the UK they come with only half the bolt so that's probably all that the doopy doos guys had to cast from. Actually - anyone around here who has a full breech bolt could do well to offer casts..l I'd sure buy one

Lookin forward to seeing this!

I agree - it looks awesome. Think about it - the scope sticks out quite a bit so it would take a lot of knocks and scrapes...

Like this: ----------

Can you supply any pics? I might be able to help...

Coming together nicely - I especially like what you've done with the rail. Nice and solid!

:shok: :shok: I think I'm going to cry....

Absolutely. The CRL for ESB troopers clearly states: No ammo counter shall be present. I believe for base level requirements you can get away with leaving the counter on, but for EIB you definitely can't have it. Maybe there aren't many (or any) other Hasbro conversions where people have committed to doing this, but the fact that you are is great and well worth the effort. Good stuff!

He's doing the right thing - ESB blasters have no counter at all so removing it is correct. You just leave it there for ANH.

The best and easiest way to do it is to get an account with an image hosting service like photobucket (absolutely free!). Put the pics up there. Then there are two things you can do: the easiest is to (on photobucket) hover your mouse over the image you wish to place in your post. A small drop down menu will appear offering the selection 'image code'. Just click on this and it's automatically copied. Then just paste it into your thread! The other way is to simply choose the image icon above the reply window. A pop up window will appear into which you can paste the URL of your image and it will magically appear in your post

No problems!

Sorry - my bad. I made that spring myself with the old wrap and stretch method. I meant buy some 18 gauge wire with which to make a spring from scratch... So long as you measure the gaps between coils (I believe it's 16mm) properly you get the same result...

Thanks Andy! I tend to agree with you about the mag and mag housing casting... It definitely feels to me like the only let down on the build so far. Which is weird because, being a cast, I had thought it would be spot on and sound as a pound, but now I do feel like a scratch build could probably be better. It's probably going to bug me more and more as the days go by... That spring in the corner is my test spring (which I will post about soon). Your eyes are sharp sir - it is 16 gauge wire when in fact it should be 18 (1.8mm diameter) but that was what I had lying around. I can easily pop out and get some 18 gauge sometime soon - I have after all got this far with pretty much stuff I had lying around! I'll try and see if a darker wire is available but if not some staining will fix that right up I'm sure. As to your suggestions about chipping up the shields and sight guard - I love it. I will get the dremel out again on the weekend and hack away! I just need to replenish my stock of metallic paint to recoat the surface once I chip it through. Again you're right about the width. I couldn't obtain 1.6mm thick plastic so I rounded up to the nearest available thickness and got the 2mm. Perhaps some of the chipping will help with the appearance of the thickness of these parts?

10mm at the head or 10mm screws? Sorry i should have clarified that's the head size not the shaft size..

the hex screw have an exact diameter of 9.31mm (0.36" or basically 1/3 of an inch) but I'd say 10mm or 9mm would be easier to find and not any noticeable difference.

Only the tiniest amount. It's a resin cast and obviously the chopped down E-11 style mag, so the curve has been all but removed... You'll see soon why it's taking me so damn long to get around to the end cap... Coming from a real Sterling owner I take that as credible praise indeed - thanks Mark! (BTW you've got a PM coming your way shortly..)

First off I made sure the muzzle was attached well and good: You can get a pretty good sense of how you can see the barrel through the vent holes in this photo: In real life it's a pretty convincing finish, but I suppose I won't really know until I take it down to my local convenience store and see if the guy behind the counter empties the register on demand... (Dear Australian Police - this was a joke. I have no intention, nor ever have of having my picture taken by a grainy, unflattering security camera...) I have to say, the hardest thing I did all weekend was try to take these accursed photos for all you blaster addicts out in webnet land... You can see here the bits I weathered the most heavily... the bayonet sliding area and lug (since the continual addition and removal of the bayonet would do a lot of weathering: The ejector port and cocking slot for obvious reasons: and the vent holes just because I've never seen any Sterling pics where the vent holes aren't weathered lke this: You can (kinda) see in these images how the mag housing and screw have seen a lot of action and can almost make out the different coloring and texture of the magazine itself: Here's a shot of the cocking handle pulling the breech bolt back, as well as in the forward position... there is an issue with the breech bolt but more on that later.. Finally, getting a decent photo of the whole thing was so damn hard, and so utterly wrought with failure that I shot the blaster (I'll take my award for pun of the year in cash, not cheques thanks) in two different lights for y'all to see: So that's where I'm at right now. It's taking much longer than I hoped, but generally I'm pleased with the results. I just really, really wanna get onto my folding stock...

Another wacky weekend in which I didn't get nearly as much done as I would have liked. I did get to painting though so at least it's looking like it's coming together First of all an advance apology for the terrible pics in this post. I was totally off my game and I just had the hardest time finding decent bl**dy light around the house THE STOCK HINGE After the glue had set on my trigger assembly and grip mount the next step was to cut and mount the stock hinge. I cut the correct 38.1mm width (give or take for saw blade width) out of a spare piece of curtain rod I had lying around. Marking out the 12mm curve that sits outside the receiver I held the metal piece in a clamp (it gets reeeeaaaal hot) and sliced it up with the cutting wheel on my dremel... ...'til it looked like this: Once again it was time for the magic apoxie resin to fill back in the body that fits the curve of the receiver and provide a surface for adhesion. Don't forget that the apoxie resin is not only a good body filler but it acts as its own adhesive too... Another apology for the pics. In this case I was watching TV in the dark This was really just a matter of mashed potato sculpture. I used a little off cut of the 1.5" tube just to sure up the shape before I placed it where it needed to be on the real deal. Getting this bleeding thing perfectly straight was a bit of a PITA but it had to be done just so or else the whole folding stock would be off, or worse - wobbly. It not only has to be straightened around the circumference but on the z axis of the tube as well, which of course can distort the apoxie resin while it's still soft and so on and.... Never mind... Too much whinging. It's done. That's all that matters. A little careful sanding to blend and smooth once it's cured and we're good to go. (isn't how cool how seamlessly the real metal of the stock hinge pipe blends with the faux metal of my paint job?.. Isn't it?...guys?) The real Sterling stock hinge has a peg sticking out on either side for mounting the stock. For a variety of reasons I've decided to do mine in reverse and insert the hinge pin through the stock and into the hinge base. I had originally laser cut these small parts to glue into the stock hinge base tube and provide perfectly sized holes for the hinge peg. However once I had had the hinge measurements confirmed by Andy, I found the hinge base only protrudes 1mm from either side of the barrel casing and thus these parts were of no use to me, as they were to thick. Instead I built the sides with the apoxie and sanded them level. So using the unused plastic piece as a stencil, I've marked a small indentation in the centre of the stock hinge for later drilling and insertion of the hinge peg. PAINTING Almost time for painting! All I had to do before applying the black paint was prep the weathered areas. I forgot to photograph this I'm afraid but most of you will be familiar with the latex method of weathering and chipping. Just dab on some liquid latex with a small paintbrush in any areas you want to mask off . Be as rough and blobby as you like - remember this is battle damage! I wanted to look at genuine reference photos for my weathering just to make sure it was in the right places and balanced well between too much and not enough. This wasn't so easy however. It's pretty hard to find pics of Sterlings that haven't been repainted at some point. When you do find some good weathered demilled guns they're a good 30 years old already than the screen used blasters so the weathering and damage is usually more extreme than on screen. You can see in the pic of Leia the screen used blasters were weathered but not in the extreme: So in the end I assessed what areas were most prone to weathering and chipping (blowback shields, sight guard, slots and ports etc) and just applied what I felt was the right amount for each area. You'll be able to see what I ended up with soon... Painting is, of course, the easy part. I suspended the gun using a pipe and old rope so I could easily access every area of it. First I had taped up the grip area and the rear cap lug. For the first coat of hammered black I also taped up the mag because the magazine itself is usually smooth and slightly more grey, not texture coated. The paper you can see emerging from both ends was just inserted to protect the metal insides from any black paint as I am reliably assured that the inside of a Sterling is not painted. So one coat of hammered black first. The hammered black however as tested by Seantrooper, here, is way too glossy, so over that goes a satin sheen coat of latex paint. It's more of a matte in fact but has just enough of a sheen to simulate what matte bake on paint looks like on metal, while still allowing the hammered black texture to come through. Overall it's pretty realistic looking so I was satisfied. THE BARREL While the main body was drying I had a chance to throw the barrel together quickly. Here's a pic Mark sskunky put up of what the barrel inside looks like. This is hard info to find because it's usually removed from demills: I decided to go with a simplified barrel that just focussed on the visible parts and was the correct 15.7mm width externally. To that end I took some other spare curtain rod (which was fortunately already powder coated with a black hammered effect!) and the laser cut parts I had ready for this bit: All I had to do was install the circular mounts at either end. Luckily for me the tolerances on the laser cut parts were so precise this didn't even need gluing - it held tight. I added glue anyway because I'm anal like that... You can see how with a bit of sculpting and painting the finished product could easily be made to replicate the real barrel exactly - I was just too damn lazy to do. Mainly because I didn't want to repaint a hammered black rod, hammered black When it was dry and so too the paint job on my main body I (slid? Inserted? rammed? God Almighty Darth Aloha's gonna be peeing in his pants...) I placed it inside ready for the muzzle to be glued in place: Then I set about peeling off all my latex dabs... easy enough - I just sat the gun in my lap like a Bond villian's cat and scratched away at it while catching up on some work... This is what I ended up with I I I I I V

He already did! Mathias generously sent me a leather ANH Holster completely free: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=18029 It was mighty kind of him and I too shall pay it forward soon...