TK bondservnt

added enjoy!

wow! thanks gentlemen for allowing me to comment on this thread with so many of you wanting to see what I have to say. short version: ask for a refund and send it back. period. long version: overall this blaster shows its warts with a sort of hacked pride. seam lines, bad casting and overall sloppy work shine on this turd. detailed breakdown: barrel tip: Lacking a representation of the proper alignment of the bayonet lug offset and a huge seam line in a part that could have been cast with no seams. front sight lacks its curves and "wings" as we see on real sterlings. AA resculpted the front sight wrong here. barrel construction The front barrel tip is glued into place showing a marked difference between the barrel itself and the badly cast tip. bayonet lug flat area flaws the bayonet lug flat area does not extend into the proper position. only a part of it is evident in the design. this is another major flaw T Tracks They do not taper at each end properly, the width is showing holes underneath they are probably the best looking wrong parts on the blaster. front sight lacking the proper shape. rivet used as a sight pin. this is the worst front sight I have ever seen in a blaster... period. sight rail and counter positioning The sight rail is bent incorrectly at the rear. the hengstler counter is pushed too far back for a correct replica. hengstler counter The H design in these photos is probably the worst I have ever seen in a hengstler cast huge flaws and seam lines show this part to be in watto's junkshop with little anikin trying to clean it up. counter positioning too far back. counter wires too long and should be only 4 loops in the correct pattern. wrong scope power cells this is the worst part on the blaster. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! rear sight mounted twisted to the left with air bubbles. junk cocking handle and cocking slot where is the cocking handle? cocking slot too narrow and mispleaced trigger group mounting and location of trigger group shows incorrect alignment of the selector switch selector switch is also not in correct location, and no paintwork shows the correct details. the inner parts of the trigger group are incorrect and placed with a visible metal strip. junk trigger incorrect location handle bad casting with incorrect details, logo and screws not represented correctly bad paint work as this part is supposed to be gloss black plastic. folding stock from the bad casting of the butt cap to the seam lines and bad construction, not to mention the huge unfilled seams but the overall look is junk. what is the phillips head screw doing in the folding stock? please tell me why you AA don't think wer're looking at this UP CLOSE!? folding stock butt cap bad casting with soft and warped details. worst casting of a butt cap I have ever seen. glue marks and blobs of glue shows signs overall of rushed and bad decision making on the costruction side. barrell holes with flashing still present. overall paint finish and lack of detail. lacks silver and gunmetal details on trigger group and inner rear spring. lacks the proper military parkerized zinc finishing on the barrel and folding stock. the bumpy texture of a real sterling is missing from the overall paint finish. flaws this blaster is junk my overall impression is that you should keep the carton he sent this pack of garbage in and use it to store your e-11 that you can make from a doopy do.

you love heat don't you~! crayon for the win~! clear nail polish to protect it... or matte clear mixed with gloss to create wear.

I use a white crayon. the wax element of the material is then painted gloss clear to keep the crayon in place! works like a charm!

I hope it's poster size, it would look cool with photos of each armor type~! wall hanger next to the film poster

PVC is just a tad bit harder to trim, and is a little stronger. ABS is more flexible, and is very durable when formed thick enough. easier to trim. both can break and need to be handled with care in the armor world. I like ABS because it's the original material. I like PVC because it's a little tougher.

ok... keep the backs like that. now let's see the front. some of the final trimming on the parts is done after you've joined the front of each thigh. cut the front overlaps down to 5/8 on each side. this creates the footprint for the front cover strip. which should be around 1" you will trim the back of the armor before adding the rear cover strips. it's best to get the fronts assembled first, with alignment from the top down. then add the front cover strip. then put them on and check the rears. take your time with each step, trimming is not always done in the beginning of assembly. if you need more detailed advice let me see the fronts.

if they have childs sizes they might work for kids armor boots? glad to see you here!

hello there! you have come to the right place for stuff about stormtroopers. after looking at the photos there are several differences that stand out. First off the shape overall seems to be a little short on the height. might cause problems with the armor. secondly the type of sole of the boot is very important, and needs to be thinner and not have a tread pattern showing from the side. and thirdly the type of boots required for stormtroopers is very close to what you show, yet the situation with trooper boots is part of what makes our costumes so good.... when we look for a proper boot, there are far too many types out there that are close... and that's why we admire TK boots or any boot of that particular type. from the size, to the shape of the toe, the overall profile we're looking for as close a match to the boots used on screen. the best boots out there have been discussed, and many have been debating which is the best. here are a few threads to look over: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24742-trooper-boots-a-list-of-suitable-candidates/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25482-boots/ have fun and enjoy your research!

if I saw the armor parts with the entire part shown in the photo, perhaps of both thighs, then I could give more detailed advice?

best welcome post I've seen in a long time! good job everyone! and welcome!

striker says that you purchased blasters from him... is this where your master molds come from? he and I just spoke on the phone about you. he is in ohio and I am in california we are watching back to the old FISD where posts are removed...

I playfully draw a line in the sand... and wait for photos. (have a chance cube here- red... or blue....- no parts... no deal....)

so what 2 scopes are you offering again? what are the original types?

yep photos of 'test castings'

I provided the scope and counter parts to the E-11 DVH kit. lou and I worked on it we are watching.

it's strange how a post with no photos can have someone who wants to buy. sure... when are the castings done?

the best as usual! nice work!

gold bond powder on hand single finger latex glove over index finger for I comm PTT tape on PTT directly to index finger silk glove rubber glove after troop: wash out rubber glove with mild dish soap place on carboard tube and lay in front of fan to air dry. put silk gloves in cold water with dish soap. air dry. it's also a good idea to fan dry your bucket after a troop.

getting boots with a seam like this is like buying an FX helmet and trying to go EIB. just simply go the extra little step and get the right boot, and then paint with angelus paints. angelus is the easy way to paint boots.

most people add extra material at the bottom or rear of a particular part. so that the front faces are smaller than the rear of each part. from the front you look correct, but from the rear your body size will show more clearly with larger parts. simply add extra plastic of the correct color to make your parts comfortable and fit better.

blocks of foam with fabric glued down for the undersuit?

my bad! just in the wrong spot!

NO DROP BOXES! heheheee

Easy Pass. FIT suggestion unbalanced side gaps. one appears to be smaller than the other. excellent job!