TK bondservnt

yeah! dave's garage is my go to vid! LOL... mike did pretty good!

The anticipation grows!

it works like this: Scan original helmet. print plastic replica out of cheap material. make molds from scan parts. fibreglass the mold. finish and assemble lenses and interior.

what type of scope is it?

We in the legion have a section of armor. Long have we known that Original Stormtrooper molds are not the originals. The originals were destroyed in a fire and explosion. The molds were re-created in some fashion, according to the man himself. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

all it would take is a little shaping, Some filler certainly would make it look more like a scope instead of a series of pipes. where are the feet? not bad?

those flat edges need to be flat, and I use the same simple way, with sandpaper on a flat surface.

if you ever would like to try an easy product. Try Angelus leather paint. Acrylic sealer after that. Looking forward to your thread!

I'm sure that it would be great to see metal parts on certain areas of this as well. The scope would be nice to have a real one, with metal parts on it. the Trigger area and guard would be best in a strong material as well. making moving triggers and assembly to allow micro switches and areas for electronics in kit form, and assembled certainly are interests. can you guys get back to me on photos for this? I want to put this on my e-11 website http://www.e-11blaster.com I'd suggest you carefully go over the comparison photos, I can see some alignment updates that could be done. want a detailed exam?

buttered corn.

Thanks sergiu... I was going to post that photo.. but I am glad you did. personally I don't buy the lack of training stuff you mention. a very clear point was made in the order not to shoot them. you can see clearly they are shooting the floor, walls and doors, and running away from the rebels. I was the first person to post the photo that sergiu posted on the FISD several years ago.

The main plot point to consider on the death star when the rebels were being lead to their ship. thus the TK's were ordered to allow them to escape. The homing beacon was an important gamble. http://www.starwars.com/video/an-awful-risk

you can use angelus leather paint on hyperfirms... it's flexible.

Very well put!

hello ricky! hey man... you have to take a look over at the original strapping section.. None of the elastics are the ribbed non roll type, they are all smooth woven. you're going to need 3 types of white elastic Shoulder strap white 2" white (do not get the non roll ribbed style, just the flat stuff.) shoulder bridge tiedown / Shin Hook elastics. 1/8" wide white for tiedowns on top of each shoulder. Strips for each shin with hook. drop box elastic 1" white woven. and 4 types of black elastic 1 1/2" (if you're using snap plates. 1" if you're using brackets.) 1" black for shoulder bells, biceps and chin strap. 3" wide thigh elastic. 2" wide elastic for bicep to forearms. (thanks bill! ) If using snap plates get 3 packs of dritz snaps nickle 5/8" and pliars for the smaller snaps on the belt chinstrap and cod get a box of nickle mini-anorak snaps.

I've seen 2 sizes in S trim in the hobby, different vendors have subtle size differences.

EFX has lost much of any credibility with a time lag like this...

novus shines it up just fine. The T det looks fine to me...

Good to see Mr G.. posting again! I'm still here mark! can you believe it! and I've just not stopped making armor... I'm over 50 suits this week! and sending 4 out in 2 days. once you get the building bug,,, it never goes away!

woo hoo!@ just ordered 2 more with back caps!

Top man approves! sweet, can we tutorial this?

PDF with photos HERE Start with a strip of aluminum polished with sandpaper grades 120 800 wipe down. aluminum strip is 1"x1/16" Mark 2 hole locations 1/2" and then 1 1/2" inches from that. 1/8" bit. Tools I use: 120 and 800 sandpaper and a towel. Slotted screwdriver TIn Snips 2 C clamps ruler sharpie slow speed drill and 1/8" bit 1 1/8" aluminum bar for side one of bending brake 2 1/8" aluminum bar for taped together side 2 of bending brake. (this is the spacer for the distance from the control panel to the tube. belt sander, or sanding block for shaping 60 grit. Start with 8 1/2 long. 8 1/2" long with holes marked and 6/32" with black painted pan head slotted screws with #6 washers I use slow speed on a drill. don't do this without experience. Line up and drill holes with the strip lined up with about 1/2" from each end of the tube. The hole aligned so that the end of the strip is almost flush with the cap. on one side leave an air release hole near one side of the front. This allows the caps to go on the pipe. Drill and mount the strips with the front screw positions. Bend by hand carefully a J shape. Tap the front edge with a hammer to shape the front of the clip to the curved shape. This helps flatten the front.https://imgur.com/oaOZnWM Drill the second hole in each J shaped bend using the strip hole as a guide. using a slow speed drill is key when doing it like this... nice and slow. Both J shapes bent and mounted with a screwdriver. put a spot of glue on the inside of the nut. Using 2 1/8" thick strips taped together, and one strip as the thin side. clamp the strips to the J shaped bends making sure they are square and keep the assembly level with the top of the control panel. Another angle of the assembly. Carefully and slowly bend the strips over first at a 90 then the full 180 degrees. Taper the top edges of your tube to make the cap fit easier. Measure 3 1/4" from the end of the folded bend. mark. Clamp a 1/8" strip in this location with another strip on top for the final bend. This shows the clamping jig for the last bend. This shows the strip ready to trim at the final bend. Closeup of marked bend area. Trimming with snips. sanded to shape with belt sander. Finished end. Lightly tap on with hammer. detail of bend. Side view. Hope you enjoy!

I would contact SSkunky and have him run up a metal part for you!

at one time I had collected all the parts needed to do all the e-11's in the films... then I had a car accident... and it all went away.... took me over 5 years to do.. and in 30 seconds it was all gone.. What I like about yours is that the C tracks are the correct size and even the bend in front is exactly correct perhaps sskunky should take note of your C track style!