TK bondservnt

This blaster is not up to my personal standards. nice.. but not close enough.

The origins of the ANOVOS sculpt seem to come from several iterations in design. It has been mentioned that these sources and workmanship has come from these makers: Mon Cal KW Then molds were produced in aluminum from that base design. (very like the old FX armor, which used an aluminum mold.) From a factory environment in china. so the design process has been described as using 3d scanning of helmets, and 3d printing used for the basis of some OT masks/helmet designs. it is a proven fact that all the anovos work comes from a combination of diverse manufacturing methods. Re-casting is only bad if you don't own the license to the source material.

Trooper of the month award?

Nick You make some really fine points here, let me help address them so you can better understand the motive of the FISD. In the costuming world the 501st legion has very high standards, for the purpose of accuracy. In the many detachments that cover all costumes in STAR WARS we go to great lengths to maintain a level of accuracy that is usually overlooked in many situations. The purpose of accuracy is to represent each CRL as best we can. The option to maintain a costume at level 1 or level 2 and hopefully level 3 we here on the FISD have been working hard since it's creation. During this time the CRL has evolved and included options that were before unknown. Now as new information comes to light, in the OT, and even for the TFA the CRL might evolve to accept a 4 holster bolt pattern, on a stunt suit. Just like we have added options to the ESB version CRL recently. I believe that the 4 bolt pattern on the hero belt is intended to make the hero designation 'stand out' and be different in scope from the stunt in this way. The CRL does not include costume mistakes, or errors in it. Yet some costumers take it to the 'replica' level of costuming by including errors, gaffers tape and other elements on their costumes. Trooping this way is fine. The Anovos sculpt is a cleaned up version designed from the lucasfilm archive content, it is not a replica by design. In the current hobby of costume designs we have RS Props who has actually simply recast and slightly modified the sculpt, as compared to the anovos design. So in our minds, the process used by RS Props seems superior to our design asthetics. we know the look of original armor, we want to see that in our vision of a repliica. EFX is working on a series of designs as well, and we also look forward to evaluating those with our expert eyes, as we in the FISD are pretty good judges of armor. after 8 years of looking at kit, after kit and more... we have learned a way of evaluating armor that can be pretty complicated. In the end, it's the wearer of a costume that derives their own personal joy out of owning it. It's also nice to be accepted by a fun loving community of experts too! That is why we have 3 levels of choice built into the system. For our own sweat, research and work to go into a costume that matters most to it's owner.

George gave his money from the disney sale of lucasfilm, to a charity that he himself created, and is on the board of directors. http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/disney-deal-george-lucas-will-384947 Disney will defend it's license around the world, wherever it can. The OT costumes in the Uk are defined as expired industrial designs. (Past the statute of protection in the UK) The holster most likely will not need to be replaced. just the belt.

WOAH!

I know how to help.

The main point here is that we have to get the BATF NFA rules, and have a gunsmith go over a potential build. it's one thing to want our cake and eat it too! and it's another to face tax evasion, and prison, and 250,000.00 fine. Aaron makes fine points here in a method, but you could probably get away with simply rebuilding the existing tube with some simple extentions.

The Upper is the section where the trigger group enters the receiver. The person in that blog is in Virginia. California Law, and BATF and NFA rules still apply to his build, he just has not gotten it approved. your original post asks for a Legal conversion.

that is part of the sear, and if milled off, ( a simple sander can do it ) it MIGHT be approved for installation. The key to understanding NFA rules is that the full auto trigger group, and an unmodified trigger shroud are defined as the "machine gun" parts in addition to the real inner front barrel, and a real bolt. when making a replica gun you have to weld in, or epoxy in a series of modifications that don't allow for the exchange of parts. So the type of demil is a complete rendering of a simulated gun with no removable parts. the Unique canes version is almost exactly like the bapty version used in the films, but it has a working trigger group. I would assume they allow the action of the trigger group to function, while making it a non gun by removing the bolt, recoil buffer assembly and recoil springs. if you remove the real bolt and replace it with an inner tube of steel or aluminum attached behind a plastic/resin bolt, you might be able to show that none of the inner parts can be exchanged, or modified. see how there is no bolt? and no open cocking channel?

the process of demil must not allow a full auto trigger group to be in the weapon. no working inner parts are allowed. The best way to get this is to mill off the sear on the trigger group, which makes the trigger group legal. ( the sear is the part that engages the bolt. ) it's best to get a gunsmith with a license to go over the assembly process with you, to ensure that you comply with county and state laws.

The only other way is to use a steel tube, and if you use the steel tube, some events won't allow metal guns, or even airsoft guns. here is a link for you to check out some reference material regarding demil weapons. http://gunwiki.net/JustTheLaw/RefFullAutoAndRewelds2004 In the bapty version there is a barrel insert that replaces the bolt, the trigger group is removed, and replaced with a block of aluminum. here is a photo showing the demil process according to NFA BATF rules.(The rules needed to follow) http://yhst-5672966975550.stores.yahoo.net/brstprt.html here is where you start your research: https://www.atf.gov/rules-and-regulations/national-firearms-act

You need to make it like a bapty style conversion. remove the real bolt, replace the entire receiver with an aluminum one from D DAY. use a wooden dowel for the inside barrel, (just like in the films) then you need to cut down the magazine. when installing the parts you should use epoxy, and not allow the bolt to move. the trigger unit can click, as long as the cocking action of the plastic replacement bolt does not cycle. you also will have to paint the tip orange to protect you from confiscation. http://www.e-11blaster.com

You are an idiot... move along.

I have 4 folding stocks and endcap assemblies. all real.

only a few things not worth mentioning. very nice work. you should be proud.

Here's my list Cut finishing strips for arms and legs to proper widths Use for sale sign plastic cut for inner strips on arms and legs. Assemble snap plates and sort inner harness and thigh belt. cut elastics to prep for fitting, install one side of caps snaps (leave one side for final fitting) Trim, sand and fit shin fronts together align from top, add inner strip to fronts on one side. clamp along edge. add rear finishing strip at the same time as adding inner strips. Trim torso parts and add snap plates to all locations. cut trim and fit biceps, add inner strip to 1/2 of the parts cut trim and fit forearms, adding inner strip to 1/2. cut and strap shoulder bells trim sand and cut plastic belts drop boxes and handplates drill rivet and measure white elastic for drop boxes and assemble to belt paint T Det tube w primer 2x paint any parts on helmet, ears, frown, vocoder and ab buttons. Attach straps to torso, fit elastics, install split rivets, install mini anorak snaps to belt, AB and install mini snaps to butt plate and rivet elastic to cod. Heat bend, glue shoulder straps to chest while aligning back plate. (set an even distance ) use 4-5 ribs not including the large tab. cut off rear large tab and fit chest straps. install chest to ab strapping, install velcro for harness at top of AB, cut and assemble harness from a back support belt, and add velcro to top of kidney. assemble shin fronts with inner strips. assemble thighs with inner strips assemble biceps forearms with inner strips. add bicep hooks, assemble shoulder bells, add elastic to top of bicep rear. add finishing strips for biceps and forearms. add elastic to inside of elbow at forearm, leave enough for a velcro tab riveted down. add velcro to inside of biceps for forearm attachments. assemble arms, polish. add finishing strips to thighs, polish and glue down wide elastic in front (add long fuzzy velcro loop to top of strap, rivet/washer create thigh belt using webbing, rivets and plastic buckle. pass thigh belt though velcro loops. add thigh pack and sniper knee to legs add velcro to shins and back of thighs. ( or glue thigh backs after final fitting ) Paint T det tube proper color, glue control panel to T det cut metal strips and drill and attach to tube. add end caps assemble belt drop boxes and holster to canvas belt. align mini anorak snaps to AB locations. Add plastic belt to canvas belt with 1/8 anvil punch. chicago screws. glue down caps. cut faceplate, cap n back and ears. drill and bolt together helmet with brow trim in place cut chinstraps add snaps and install to ear screws with additional bolt. cut star foam to shape. cut lens material to shape and add velcro to each side ( velcro lenses are easy to clean!) cut frown mesh and install with white duct tape for a clean look add hovie tips and S trim to helmet, paint ear screws white add decals or paint

I put the air hole under the metal strip. so plan your location for the strips, when you drill a hole it will allow the caps to come off.

The road is much better when you have all of us behind you!

I build armor for people. it is fun to build your own armor as well.

It is no wonder why you beat me for DL this last year. heheh... you're like a wampa in an ice cave. Taking our credits... long live the ol FISD THT UQ Fall in!

We are all soooo needy. hehe... BTW walt gives out a$$ kixing service and attention to detail. Stay in formation. on target.

no TXT recd' nifty badge seems to be intact! heheheee.. Supporter sounds like underwear. you know? we're the straps who support! hrrrumphhh

I donated last time and never got the mystery badge! LOL donated!

render vs box art shows minor differences.