TK bondservnt

if you look closely the snaps are not 5/8" nickle snaps... they are in fact a smaller type of snap called anorak snaps. These are the best version I can find in Jo-Ann's fabrics... does anyone have a source for the real thing? These are on the AB plate, Cod, and chin strap. on the AB for the belt connection and the right side kidney connection.

very very nice!

someone just sold a scope on here that was pretty badly damaged for 210 it ws so cracked I would not have purchased it.

Trooperbay ebay store has no items? and .com is down!

I think the build looks great. Just an observation: The snaps on the cod, chinstrap, usually should be the smaller size anorak jeans snap. snaps on the belt AB connection should be Anorak as well. The plastic shoulder bridges should have the squares cut off on the back sides. and the drop box back should have a rivet holding the elastic to the rear of the box. The bracket screws could have been mounted on the upper returns on the top of the kidney plate end observations. you should be an easy pass!

scopes are pretty rare around here. I've paid over 250 us for them.

there are absolutely no rules governing rocker placements. we only ask that you have the designation. it's not like a 501 member is going to be asked to remove the location of ANY patch. I would say for fun you can put the patches stacked like this: Centurion EIB EIB FISD logo or patch. having more than one rocker for each EIB is a great idea. since I have 2 EIB awards I fully plan to go this route. might actually make someone ask... hey buddy... why do you have 2 EIB rockers?

who says trooper armor does not have storage in the back for boots... all ya gotta do is roll them up.

I need to teach him how to put up a bumper page.

it would be fun to have working AB buttons via the magnetic concept with a light display inside the helmet. you could have the switches be hover activated

I posted this thread to encourage boot information. I'm glad to see any link to any kind of boot. the FISD likes all good boot sources. just sayin! have fun!

They probably got 10 orders and went OH NO! now we have to cast more!

no matter which end you like to use the parts should be lined up, and covered completely by the joining strip.

you are suposed to align from the wrist end, and make your finishing strips long enough to cover the end of the elbow.

ah... to have a nice thread running... feels like the old days!

that is the elbow section. it looks like you've made the strips shorter near the elbow. there is supposed to be a return at the bottom of the elbow, and the crook of the elbow is supposed to be no return edge.

Here is a Quote from Anovos: For those of you not member of the RPF (Replica Prop Forum), Anovos' GotMaul posted the following, concerning the switch to PVC: The ultimate piece will be PVC. The reason you saw the variation was because it was still in deliberation what material we were going to use. My guys were in China this past week and put the materials through various professional tested conditions that looked at wear and tear, long term use and aging. The results we found pointed all at PVC for its durability and wear over the long term. The part that most people don't understand about PVC is that there is a gradient of quality of this product. Arguably, the gradient between poor PVC plastic and amazing PVC plastic is larger than ABS. What we typically have used here in the states (at least from we have observed) is that everyone is usually held to the limitations of poor supply that doesn't necessarily give the best quality. This would explain the mixed responses ranging from people loving PVC to hating it. With that being said, thanks to you on the RPF and thousands of people, our great experiment to leverage volume to command our own quality has paid off. I am so pleased to you all that behind the scenes, we are now buying plastic by the TONS. This has allowed to not only be free from the restrictions of supply, but actually custom make our very own plastic and what it will consisted of, down to the molecular level. The PVC we have chosen to make from scratch, will be highest quality PVC. It will also be dyed to match the bright white ABS (which is something that American PVC suppliers rarely see ) and an added element, unique to Anovos, will also have custom anti-UV protection mixed into the plastic. Not only will your armor be durable, it will also be protected much longer from yellowing caused by light and time. All, I am so excited about this. We've knitted our own fabric before, but actually creating plastic is whole new level for us and it was all because of you and thousands other. Because of you guys, we are not only making more product, but actually expanding our hobby and taking costuming to whole new levels. end quote. This is fantastic news!

you can always use plastic epoxy, fill in a hole partially and after it cools you can re-dremel the parts that are not looking right! nice job! Why not replace the scope ,and get a better counter too! there are good resin replacement parts out there...

good comparison! jedi robe is terrible.

GOOD JOB! photos soon!

your plastic thickness is correct. usually you want to glue the back of the thighs. front cover strips 1" rear cover strips are 1.5" forearms are 5/8" and biceps.

getting a kit sounds fun.

contact sskunky as he is now making the ROTJ blaster in complete kit form.

the front is too dense... the inside of each side quickly. for just a few seconds

you should apply only small amounts of heat inside the part. never let the part get hot. heat for a moment. wait, let cool and test. this type of ABS plastic can take less than 40 seconds to become molten. if you melt the plastic like let's say cheese it will fall apart like a cake and you'll have a pile of melted plastic. 15 seconds along the entire side or LESS... try 10 seconds of balanced heat across each side. the tension in the shins is held across the side of each leg. remember LESS heat the better. with the parts taped in place you are just heating small areas to release the tension. put the part into the refrigerator, (not the freezer) to cool. glue comes apart in the freezer.