TK bondservnt

erv's blaster core is one of the hardest boards to get. no waiting list. I've been trying to get one for 3 years. he sells out instantly and has shut down his newsletter which used to announce runs. it's a great board, but you just can't order one, and get it... he does not sell from a list. that's one thing I wish he'd change.

there's actually a german maker who does great work! you can also look up unique canes and apex gun parts.

thats because the PC version is different than the other versions.

the designs of replica firearms banned in canada have been shown on a photo before?

any capped ABS would not react to a polymer polish with rubbing compounds in them. they are abrasives and remove small amounts of surface material. you'd want simply an abs approved type for capped finishes.

novus polish numbers 1-3 it's the main use for UN COATED abs. for coated ABS you will most likely have to use what that manufacturer recommends.

in canada you most likely won't be carrying a replica weapon? do troopers in canada even troop with their blaster??

would you be needing the rear lock as pictured? or the swivel mount for the folding stock?

would a standard L2A3 run for a centurion status if it were made up in the ROTJ fashion? but with the L2A3 stock and grips?

lookin good there andrew... I wonder where you got that build? hehe... :leia:

the galen marek sabre is the centurion blade. not the white version.

just get a starkiller lightsabre and call it done.

lightsabers in TKC hands are perfectly cannon. done deal. this thread has been done before. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16043 here's my first suggestion for a TKC lightsabre link HERE ok troops! let's see some more examples? is this design passable for centurion TKC? here's a couple more sources: link HERE jk-sabres red: blue green they even have purple. and HERE for lightsabre archives and screenshots

in the academy bernard and I are listed. it's really all good product sold in the for sale area. some sellers are not as interested in accuracy, even on this board. some are fanatics! from armor to blasters to boots and neckseals, it's all a journey in product comparisons!

I don't see how this thread should be a sticky. most people who want accuracy already know the details of threads like this one. there are in fact several threads on holster accuracy: ---------

I'd say that while this is an interesting take on this design, TM, rick330 and several others have chimed in on a completely different thread showing why this modified cut is not the way it was done. do I have to double post the responses to this design again? and GAZ, your photos you posted in the "other" new holster design thread are also broken. again, while this is an interesting design I personally don't believe that holsters should be cut in this fashion! nice work at some of the elements, yet the tilted front cut was answered previously.

thanks so much for the mention here! and darman's holster is miles above the one shown! mine are in kit form, and finished versions.

well, I was just speaking from the observation that they look much too large. I like ROTJ just fine there brothers!

the TKC is cannon with the sabre IMHO.

ap is easy to build. rich and paul are masters, but I'm a master at the ap build and it's all in the eye of the beholder. TM is by far not as easy to build compared. the parts match up just fine.

the main problem with getting ERV's boards is that he never makes them available. has no waiting list, and you have to troll a webboard to get his products. I've been trying for 3 THREE years to get a board from ERV!

never had a single problem with 7 orders of E-11 mk 1 kits from DD's.

this is the exact thread pattern thanks to TROOPERMASTER!

I dont think you need to change anything. a little velcro at the front of the belt, and keep the belt tight. always look at the film and compare your look to that. don't go by another person's build thread! look at the movie and then look at your photos! it's good to have everything like you have it! trust me! if you want to keep the shoulder bells in tight to the front, simply move the attachment forward about 1"

there's thayne!