Jump to content

Coastertk

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    335
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Coastertk

  1. I’ve always used brush on model paint for the tube stripes, and have had the same results you had there. Paint bleed. Some people brush on a white paint first, then follow up with the blue. Reason being that the white will bleed through first, being less noticeable. That being said, you need to clean up those stripes. Get some paint thinner and strong sharp toothpicks. Dip the toothpick in the thinner and start removing the excess. I hope the Rust-Oleum lifts off as nice as Testors does.
  2. That snap you have in the Cod should actually be a Split Rivet. Doesn’t need to be functional. You can use the same hole, just drill out the inside (not seen) part of the snap, it’ll split apart. Then glue a snap plate over top, or just in front of the split rivet.
  3. Looks good. Going to make a WORLD of difference for you! Hello stairs!!
  4. That’s a great feeling to be done trimming for sure. Have you given consideration to the level of accuracy you’re shooting for with your build?
  5. You have come a long way. Looks so much better!!! Only suggestion I would make is to see if you can raise your thighs up a bit.
  6. I noticed you still have a lot of return edge on the forearm. The rule is “none” at the wrist side. Also as a note about the shins before you get to them. Be sure to test fit with your boots and undersuit on. The left shin from ATA has been known to fit a little snug. Looking great so far.
  7. You can re-use your original stickers by covering them with a piece of packing tape. Then peeling the tape off and using a blade tip (Olfa or similar razor knife) to “assist” the tube stripes up onto your packing tape. Reposition them, On The Opposite Sides and repeat with the blade, this time removing them from the tape. It’s worth a shot. And that paint removal will take 15 minutes. You’ll be surprised how easy the paint comes off. As for stability while wearing it.. if it’s fitted and strapped correctly, that’s not really an issue. Although Velcro can help you out of a jam if you’re in it. My belt for example used to sit too low. Not anymore. Some people use it for shifting shins. Between the boot and shin. Find out what’s unstable, then figure out how to stabilize it.
  8. You’re going to remove the 4th tooth on either side right? Stunt have 4 teeth holes each side. Hero helmets have 3 each side.
  9. Iv’e done a couple of these. For a smaller child, cut the Chest from the Ab. Allow that to overlap, also cut the Cod and slide that up and under the Ab. At that stage I would recommend using Velcro for the strapping. Kids grow quickly and the kit can too. Once the overlap is grown into, you can remove the Velcro and switch to a maxed out sizing conventional strapping. Great job BTW suttontech!!!
  10. Hey Peter, Welcome to the world of shiny white!! A few things jump out at me, but I’m sure the Pros here on FISD can get you looking your best. 1. Chest overlap Ab. It’s a result of the original strapping style you used. Possibly shorten strapping? 2. Tube stripes are way too low. Should sit a pencil width away from the cheek/tube mould line. 3. Ab buttons are too large. Could use a toothpick dipped in thinner to remove some paint 4. Arm strapping. Are you using any to keep everything lined up and in place? Seems to shift around a lot in the photos. None of these suggestions are meant to bring you down, quite the opposite. Theses are meant to bring Imperial Conformity to the 501st. When you look good, we all look good. And we want you to look your best!!
  11. Great choice in kits. You’ll love the durability of ATA!
  12. You’ll make a fine addition to the ORG!! Looking forward to trooping with you real soon. I’d say good luck with your approval, but you don’t need it.
  13. Just remember that the stencils have a left and right. The tips on the inside (closest to eyes) should naturally fall forward (toward vocoder). Hope that makes sense. And no further than a pencil width away from cheek mould line.
  14. Dip a toothpick in the thinner and pick away!
  15. Following this for sure. Looks like a fun ride. The numbness and blister on your hand is a result of the quality abs that ATA provides. Give someone a hand trimming their Anovos and it’ll feel like you’re cutting a piece of paper. Looking forward to watching an ESB come together.
  16. Glad to hear it man. We have a few troopers in your neck of the woods for sure. Feel free to reach out if you need any hands on help. In the meantime... try your hand at the paint thinner/toothpick method to slightly reduce the ab button paint. That’ll nip it in the bud before Justjoseph asks you to do it for your EIB application. I’m pretty sure your headed in that direction?
  17. Your build is looking great so far! I noticed the Canucks glass a few posts back, are you in BC?
  18. I've done one of these before. Do yourself a favour (Canadian spelling) , and buy the Rubies 2piece kids FOTK Helmet. It takes way more effort to mod the bucket than it's worth.
  19. What a great weekend that was. It was nice to meet you Badlanders. Thanks for the update on Kallum. His Krennic was a hit for sure. Can't wait to see what he and his father choose to build for Dads approval. See you guys back there next year.
  20. Well done Colin!! I've got a spare Centurion shoulder rocker patch for you.
  21. No, not at all. Some makers, like RTMod, only provide a two piece (already cut) ab and cod.
  22. The longer piece should be against the outside of the ankle.
  23. Glad to hear the freezer method worked for you.
×
×
  • Create New...