Coastertk

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------------- Why the hell cant I upload pictures? My photo bucket is buggered up.

I went with a single lense application for mine. I first made a template to show exactly where the eye openings laid. Then I cut down the lense to fit like a bandit mask. This is where you can cut out the groove or notch to allow for your nose to fit in. I then cut a piece of vinyl to cover the visible (from inside bucket) side. The backside (touching helmet) is where I used Velcro along the top side to attach to helmet. Having it only attached at the top allows the bottom side to help circulate airflow and avoid fogging.

+1

To answer your question....No Basic Approval CRL states : Forearms For 501st approval: Forearms are fully closed. All of the return edge at the wrist needs to be removed.

No Velcro for the forearms. These are one piece butt join with cover strips. The backs of the shins can be closed with Velcro. Be sure to build the backs so that the rear cover strip is on the outer half of the shin. This photo shows it with overlap build but you get the point right. The idea is that people looking from the side only see armor not Velcro. Photo again is showing the overlap build but I wanted you to see the rear closure and position of the cover strip. I used a 1" white industrial Velcro and added a thin smear of E-6000 to the adhesive backing. Have not had the Velcro peel up, and anybody using ATA can understand just how tight that left one is done up. Hope this helps.

Quality build. If I could make one comment it would be on your lack of overlap from your chest onto your ab. You seem to be riding high on the chest. If I could make two comments it would be the back of your right ear. Do you still have the spare that came with your kit? I don't think it will hold you back on EIB but if you have the option of replacing it, then why not. If you have cut up both sets of ears and still want to swap it out, send me a pm and you can have my spare set. Again, nice work, quality build.

I'm certain the application process is only a formality. Well done.

That's right. Freehand draw your line following the mold lines. Your ears will cover everything nicely.

Cat Crap anyone? Looking for a review.

Don't be afraid of the paste. It's going to be your new best friend. I hope you saved some cut off pieces. Start by cutting some scrap ABS into tiny little pieces. The smaller the better. It helps if all your little pieces are around the same size. Make enough to fill about 1/2 of a shot glass. Next add some Acetone. Just enough to cover the shards, not drown them. It starts to work pretty quick. Turning your abs into a toothpaste consistency. Keep stirring. When you think the paste is ready use a Popsicle stick to apply to your seam. Be sure to "prep" your seam by sanding down any high spots before applying paste. Let it dry overnight. If you start sanding before all the Acetone has evaporated you will just end up smearing paste instead of removing it. Once cured, start sanding. 60grit, then 180, then 320, and I finished with 1000grit. Follow up with Novex plastic polish 1 2 and 3 and you are done. 2 days and no one will ever tell you had a seam to begin with.

Looking good. Just a couple things that you may or may not want to address. All constructive criticism here. First thing that I notice is the flaring outward of your side shims. Perhaps a couple tabs glued inside these will help keep them even with the ab. The other was your shoulder bridges. Are they offset? One appears longer than the other from both front and back shots. Just a couple of easy fixes that would accent all the hard work you've already done. And not to not pick, but if you happened to hit up those Thermal Detonator screw heads with a touch of black paint it would be good. Again nice build.

2" white for the shoulder straps (chest piece to back plate) under the shoulder bridges. 1.5" black for all of your interior strapping 3/4" black for your shoulder bell to connect on the bicep hook 1/2" white for your drop boxes 1/4" white for your shoulder bridge rear tie down These are all just suggestions but seemed to work well for me.

It's a TK-O. Be proud!

Not everybody does it the same. I personally attached my shim to the "kidney" only. This way there is less abs goop to make up and sand smooth. Fill two seams instead of four. As for the rivets I used "split rivets" with washers for the kidney/ab and I used "double cap" rivets for the thigh. Got all my rivets through Echo here on FISD.

Looking Good Trooper! A little toning down of your black outlines now will mean you won't have to do it later, like when you apply for Centurion. Just chase it around from the inside with the grey paint. Easy. A thin pin stripe is all you want. If you need to remove any paint from the outside edge, a toothpick dipped in paint thinner is your answer.

Nice work Kyle. Was wondering when I would see this thread pop up. Nice build. Only thing I noticed was actually 2 things in the "right side arms up" photo. First is the chest piece riding a bit high, popping up and over the ab. I know it's hard for a guy that's 6'2" to squeeze into an ATA. A possible remedy could be to "cut the cod". It would all be hidden under your belt and could give you an inch or so in height of your ab. Second was the extra nylon webbing hanging down beside your drop box. It is dangerously close to overlapping the top of your thigh making it visible. I imagine it's just the tail end of your thigh garter? Possibly just tuck it up and away? Overall it's a very solid build and I have enjoyed watching you go at it. Thanks for the great build thread.

I would recommend using 1 1/2" squares. Everything else you are doing looks fine, the flame to stop fraying edges and the hot nail is it to pierce the centre hole. Just switch up to the 1 1/2" nylon webbing and use 1 1/2" Elastic to do your strapping. You will have much better coverage for your E6000 to work properly. Hope this helps

You've come this far, why not go the distance. Don't fear the paste. It will be your best friend when your build is finished. Shim your gaps and fill your seams. It's just one more step. Sanding... And lots of it. But done correctly and no one can tell that you did anything at all.

What did you choose?

You might find that the blades of your "tin snips" will have a serrated edge that may transfer onto your armor. You can always sand it smooth after. Lexan scissors, both curved and straight is what I would recommend using instead of the snips.

As for the bicep shape, I ended up ordering another right bicep from Terrell. It was right around $30. I now rock two right biceps and couldn't be happier. You can try and reshape your original left, but just thought I would share with you my solution to the very same problem.

Keep it white. Just my 2c. Looks clean and tidy.

Hold a pencil up to the cheek line. That's how far away your tube stripes should be from them. Not sure if it's your pic but they might be a tad far? Just my 2 cents.

Nice tip on the Elmers glue masking. I've never seen that before.