T-Jay

No worries, patience is the key in this hobby. Take your time...

Hi Jennifer and welcome to the FISD. Glen's link to the pre-approval area seems like the best way to start. With more photos at higher resolution some experts here will be able to help determine, if this armor needs corrections / adjustments and if it's worth to go through that.

If I get you right, Brian, only your master set of power cylinders will be metal, to then use these for making resin molds. Now, if you plan a separate base plate for the resin copies, then why not making this from 1mm ABS plastic sheets? Cheaper costs for material, for tooling, perfect to CA-glue with resin, easier to shape and bend, more lightweight and still strong enough to carry the few resin add-ons. I have 1mm ABS pieces in my Completion Sets and you can literally cut them with a pair of scissors. So much easier and faster than working with metal. Just my two cents.

Wow Brian! Seems like you are stepping into Andy's footprints here. Thought you are working on power cylinders from resin. Okay, of course it takes a precise master to make a mold. But if you put such effort into sourcing correctly shaped parts, then maybe you could consider offering metal versions as well... ?! (feeling the pressure? )

Will send you a PM when I am home again.

I love this weathering. Good luck Scott.

In case you want to add some weathering (still possible), you can check the 'Weathering Chapter' in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. Maybe it inspires you...

Very good, Colin, very good. Keeping my fingers crossed for your Centurion application...

That is correct. Your work on the hollowed resin scopes was absolutely outstanding! Thinking of a full blaster kit with the same high level of details makes me want to start right now. In other words: whenever you do this, I would be honored to build it. Guessing I do then need an acrylic glass case not just for the scope, but the whole blaster, he?

Wow Colin, very well done!!! Glad to see, there is nothing left to tell from that earlier flaw.

My Phoenix Props kits a few years ago all had a one-piece folding stock, which (as far as I know) was cast from the cleaned Sterling parts set that you have now. I always wanted to see (and have) a detailed resin folding stock. Yeah, it might break - but I would take that risk.

Welcome to the ranks, Ian. Now that you mention it, these could sit a bit closer to the shoulder bridge. Maybe you can reach this by shortening the strap. To keep your lower legs from rotating, you can use velcro between boots and shins.

Great work, Greg. Glad to hear you were able to get all issues with the electronics fixed. Can't tell how it sounds, but it LOOKS really good. The only thing I noticed is the bayonet lug. Seems it needs to get rotated by 90 degrees: For the weathering, maybe Chapter #29 of the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference will inspire you and help you with that...

Good idea with the additional rubber washer. 'Poor man's fiberglass' (CA glue and a piece from an old T-shirt) works very well to reinforce the thin material around the mic tips. Oh and, great posting (as always )

Good luck, Scott. Keeping fingers crossed for you. Even with primer, I experienced the same after some events. The bottom of the handle simply is a prominent part of the E-11 and I had to retouch this area several times...

Hello Quinn, welcome aboard. ... and prepare for 'not being able to sit down' during events. The information in this forum can be overwhelming, so don't hesitate to ask your questions here or in your build thread. Enjoy your TK journey and have fun.

And if Glen's idea does not work for you, maybe you can install your speaker inside the Hengstler counter box. Getting the wires there can be challenging, but I have seen people running them below the scope rail or right through the receiver pipe into the counter.

Hi Josh and welcome to the FISD. Is the blaster meant for trooping or display only? (asking because of the weight, less weight is better for long trooping days) Beside Praetorian there are other sources for rubber blasters, but these always turn out heavier than other kits. Resin is better and 3D-printed kits are the light-weightiest on the market but require serious sanding.

Hi Garrett, welcome to the FISD. May I suggest to start with this this section, which will answer many of your questions. If you tell us about your height and body shape, we can help to find an armor that fits you. And if you tell us where you are located, we can help getting you in contact with some local people. Seeing different armors in real life is an eye-opener. Any questions, just let us know.

Great story Dave. I am happy for you, in the end everything worked out. Wishing you a lot of fun with your TK armor and your boys. Maybe some day they want their own armor and you can troop together...

Great job, Colin. I am really happy for you. Modifying things on a finished blaster is always a tricky thing, but you took the plunge and did it. Superb result and a good improvement! Congratulations.

Brian's scopes are the best!

Hi Sven, welcome to the FISD and great to have you here. You already made a good choice with RS Props and don't worry, even fully finished suits often require some adjustments from the owner. Once that is done (and to be absolutely sure), you can request TK-Pre-Approval here, before officially submitting for basic approval with the German Garrison. For correctly posting photos you will need an online-photo hosting service like Flickr, imgur and so on. Please have a look. Regarding the length of your arms: I would suggest to use straps and snaps to connect the biceps to the should bells. This will help keeping them in place and also lifts your lower arms. You are located in NRW, so once you become a member of the 501st Legion, you will be part of the White Shadows Squad. @Freduster and me are your local Attachés in this squad. Feel free send a PM as it might be easier to help you in German language. Looking at your first photo in armor, I would kindly suggest to bring the helmet down as far as possible. This helps reducing the gap between shoulders and helmet and also helps with your body height. 1.83 m is pretty tall for a Stormtrooper, but nothing is impossible. Simply remove the inner foam padding from your helmet and it will look much better.

Your work paid off and the blaster looks great. The only thing sticking out to me is the position of the scope. Most E-11 have it next to the Hengstler counter. If you are still able to move it there, it would also cover the mounting screws and brackets. But I know how hard it can be to change things on a finished blaster, so don't worry. It still looks great. Happy to see you decided for a light weathering. This always adds so much more realism to such builds.