T-Jay

To be honest, that doesn't look bad to me. Many builds out there do not have a textured surface at all - but this one has. Looking forward to your next update.

Sorry to say but I can confirm the fumes of these type of paint lasts very long. In my case with the VHT paint it took more than half a year to fade. When opening that closed cabinet with my blasters inside, I sometimes can still smell this paint mixed with the oil and grease from the real Sterling. Crazy stuff. And yes, you really only get the right result, by strictly following the instructions on the spray can - including temperatures and constant humidity. Nevermind, the weathering of this E-11 will surely catch more attention later, than some imperfections of the wrinkle paint. If your result is somewhere between test piece 1 and 2, everything will be fine.

Over time, some improvements were made to the Completion Sets. Early sets for example had issues with the aluminum stripe snapping while bending it. Because of that, I changed to a different supplier and from then it worked fine. Not sure if your aluminum stripe is affected by that, but if you post a sharp closeup photo of one end, I might be able to tell and possibly replace it with the newer version. Also I am not sure, if the green stuff and the CA glue might have become useless over the years. Please check that as well. And in case we end up with a 2nd shipment, you could consider to grab some of the later additions from the current version (like the rotary switch or the crosshair lens and so on). Just drop me a PM for that if you want.

Hi Thomas, great to see you starting your own build thread here. Looking at that first picture, it reminds me of the good times: resin instead of 3D parts Guessing this will be one of the very last DoopyDoo's builds as it seems like the production is discontinued - at least we haven't seen any kits from DD shipped during the last 18 months. But who knows, maybe it is just a little break... Good luck for your build and keep the photos coming. Oh, your Completion Set was from 2016 so better skip the Haribos.

First of all, I highly appreciate the time consuming work in the background to keep this forum clean. Many thanks for that. Would it be an option to inform the owners of affected threads to make them aware of this move? Otherwise I could imagine, people miss the 6 months time frame and precious information might be lost.

You can contact @justjoseph63 for a set of them. Not sure yet, if he still has some left. Oh, and welcome back.

Thanks for the link, Glen. Yes, COVID slowed down everything. Seems like DoopyDoo's haven't sold a kit for about a year or so. And because my completion sets are tailored to these kits, I only had very few requests. In the long term, I might have to quit offering them. For the moment however, I still have enough stock to help you, Richard. Click on that link and if you like what you see, just drop me a PM.

Hi Marc. Any chance for a sale thread here on FISD? (for the non-Facebook people)

Hi Chuck, welcome to the FISD. You can request 501st access here. And here you can then go for the higher levels.

Never seen resin T-tracks before. Surprised to see it was possible to install them. I expected resin to break on such sharp bends. Good job.

Loving the paint chips. As always, great work Dan.

See here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50907-newly-discovered-anh-e-11-greeblies-offer/

Great project, Dan. Maybe the eye brow was over-trimmed as the first owner aimed for the 'move along' helmet. Don't know. Good restoration result so far. Interesting to see you painting the Humbrol grey first and then the black outlines. You seem to have a steady hand.

That looks good Dan. Wouldn't worry about the gloss, you can always dull it down with black spray paint.

Might be worth to try your local DIY store or something like that.

Hi Josh, the thickness of the wire makes a very big difference here. The original spring wire's thickness was 1.8 mm. A wire of that thickness can be wrapped around a broomstick for example to get a suitable result. With 2.0 mm and more it gets much harder. When wrapping the wire around the broomstick, protect your hands by wearing gloves. That makes it easier.

They most likely had the wrinkle (or crinkle) paint. In case you go for it: VHT 201 Just make sure to exactly follow the instructions and allow about half a year for the intensive smell to fade away. If the result turns out a bit glossy, just dull it down with a thin layer of matte black spray paint.

Many thanks @TKSpartan @LEGOeatPokemon and @AradunFF This build was real fun. THAT is a great idea. Will definitely do this - even if not documented here.

Great progress and cool video, Dan. Looking at the front muzzle, I am though wondering about the length of the tube. In the above image you can see the dovetail and front sight cage sitting very close to the rounded edge. Compared to this kit, the receiver tube seems a bit long. On the below photo I noticed a slight 'ring' below the front sight cage. Was the tube meant to be cut there? Or do you know of any other reason? I once had a similar issue, chopped off the receiver's tube and seamlessly added the muzzle with green stuff. Keep the good job up. It is fun following this project.

Final helmet update: The imperial cog is my favorite emblem and I thought it would look nice on the side of the blast shield. A sticker might have been the easiest way, but it needed to be heavily worn off. That required more work… Okay, here we go... A plaque was required, as this helmet will be in my RS collection and there it would look odd without it. The layout is close to the original RS plaques and I weathered it to match the style of this bucket. This project was planned for winter 2020/2021 and now comes to an end. Building something outside the CRL restrictions was indeed real fun. Would I do it again? Yes! It was more difficult than a normal helmet (oh wonder) but worth the effort. Maybe I would use a little brighter kind of green (like TS-5, TS-28 or even TS-78). And I would add an aiming device on the right eye. It still hurts to not have it. Anyway, it was a fun journey and I really enjoyed to run a build thread again. Many thanks to everyone here for reading and commenting. Actually I wanted this post to end with a 360 degrees video of the helmet with all lights on. Sounds easy, but after 13 takes I still ended up with issues on lighting, auto-focus and a wobbly rotation. So instead, I now close it with the final list of modifications and a few pictures: 1 - Blast Shield 2 - Black Interior 3 - Two-tone paint job 4 - Antenna and radio 5 - Utility belt 6 - Universal supply box 7 - Bacta canister (illuminated) 8 - Helmet flashlights 9 - Breathing tube 10 - Kill marks 11 - Aurebesh letterings 12 - Imperial cog on blast shield 13 - Skull face 14 - Weathering and paint chips 15 - ‘flesh wound with guts‘ 16 - Greeblies 17 - Blaster marks 18 - Helmet stand with customized display plaque Have a nice weekend Troopers and Cadets.

Following - as it seems like I have to update the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference once this topic here has been sorted.

@Bulldog44 @TKSpartan @Motogpnut Thank you very much guys. Already working on the next update...

According to the facebook page there are 2 versions available, one with additional upgrade parts.

Today‘s update is more of a rework. As you may remember, I worried how wobbly the bacta canister was attached to the belt with just a blank wire. Not only this, the wire was also visible on both end caps and on the canister‘s rear side it even got magnified by the liquid. Searched for a more stable and less noticeable way – and played with the idea to illuminate the bacta like seen in ESB… The only way to hide the light source was to place it inside the upper cap, with the LED facing down towards the liquid. Also wanted to hide the switch, for what the bottom side of the lower cap seemed ideal. But how to run the wires between both end caps without seeing them? If I can‘t hide them, maybe I can use them… Not only that, the surprisingly stable wires (hidden on the rear side) are perfect for attaching this bacta canister to the helmet. I simply ran the 'utility belt' between the acrylic tube and the wires and ended up with a very tight fit. No more wobbling. Next update will show the final project and covers more helmet personalization plus comprehensive weathering...