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Dax Corrin

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About Dax Corrin

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    Cloud City Garrison

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  1. My soldering station sadly needs a new heater and tip. I was able to connect the second blue LED pair, but the red 2nd LED pair solder joint broke loose. I have another cheaper iron around somewhere but haven't found it yet. I've been working on melting some of the internal structure inside the magazine well to make room for the sound board and the speaker. I still have to reach the power switch too. I think I've made room for sound chip speaker and access for the switch. I may remove the LED that indicates power on as it gets in the way. More to come.
  2. I have successfully converted the common ground 3 wire 2 LED set Red/Blue for the breech pair of the Blaster Master kit and so far have paired the 2 red together. The 2 end of barrel LEDS look nice. A new challenge is locating the sound/LED controller and the battery inside an E-11 blaster. I still have to locate a second switch for the stun/kill selector inside the trigger housing where the original selector as well. The sound/LED controller is fairly large and locating it so it can be turned on and off and have room for the speaker and battery remain to be solved. The manual bolt cocking will likely need to be restricted. Will look into placing the battery inside a black insulated cover behind bolt inside spring. Much to work out electronically. I have added the wires from the Hengstler counter to the power cylinders and a TINY bit of silicone lubricant on the spring and pivot pins for folding stock makes it move and hold together much better. I will let it sit for several days before giving it all a coat of satin clear coat to protect the satin black. I'm just not certain I could do a good job weathering so it might be "new issue".
  3. Anthony's sound/LED kit uses common power, switched ground. The BlasterMaster used common ground but through a selector switch that isolated the grounds, so any time I plugged the 2 Blue and 2 Red BlasterMaster LEDS in at the same time they all lit up no matter what mode stun/kill.. It's cool to have a red and a blue at both the end of the barrel and at the breech which is the BlasterMaster idea so I'm retrofitting the Blastermaster LEDs to provide common power through the resistor for the breech LEDS, and using the provided AB LEDS for the barrel end LEDS. So far have the barrel end LEDS working and glued into place, and the barrel tip and Allen screws in place. Will tap the second LED set for the breech area in and still want to get a better speaker. Have some ideas for the selector between stun/kill so it won't be visible. Likely will place charge port behind magazine so just remove it to charge the battery. No more pics yet, but progress is being made. Still puzzling out the trigger as it doesn't seem to work based on the picture in the instructions. Will likely add a spring and epoxy the trigger switch in a place where it doesn't interfere with operation of stun/kill switch and has good "feel". This has been fun and it looks so much better then the cheap blaster I was using. Might take the little blaster with me to let kids hold when permitted and parents approve.
  4. It already looks better than the Disney Parks blaster I use if no one objects. Much more detail. Will carry Crazy Glue with me in my kit in case bits want to pop off, that struggle WILL be real.
  5. The artificial Allen head screws on the underside of the scope rail to barrel brackets interfered with the scope rail attaching to the barrel properly, so they are gone. I also ground down the heads of the real screws I'm attaching the brackets to the Hengstler counter with, so they don't rub on the barrel. The existing LED/sound chip wiring seems to be backwards on the sound selector switch, but I won't be using that portion. Will need to locate both the charge port and the selector switch for stun/kill sounds somewhere, and the speaker that came with the original kit is not very good. I'll get a better speaker that is the same size. More pics coming soon.
  6. More time spent sanding but it will never be perfect. A more modern 3D printer with these files would do better. I used real screws to attach the Henglstler counter to the scope rail angle brackets. Might end up replacing super glue with real screws on the underside of the scope rail to the scope through the Hengstler brackets as well. More likely to survive some abuse with real screws. Started messing with the electronics for the trigger assembly, but not going to use the existing kit, as it sounds like sh*t. Anthony B's kit will be installed, as all I want is lights blue and red and sound stun and kill. The extra stuff like the scope display is cool but more $$.. Everything is looking good but will allow 24+ hours for paint to dry and harden. I am so antsy to work on it that I've messed up some of the paint by not letting it dry thoroughly. More pictures tomorrow Pacific time.
  7. And as promised, a few pictures. 600 grit wet sandpaper is a personal friend of mine. Spent some time on the magazine and then realized it was the under side, so more work on it, along with the work to remover the lines from the bottom. Folding stock works nice. Will likely work some more on the end cap, it still has lines. Hengstler counter still needs work on line clean-up and joint filling. The reset button feels like a reset button when you press it. Ran out of satin black Krylon, need more. Working on the scope and the printed out reticle option, the glue is drying on the small end.
  8. Not a lot of pictures yet, will take some today. Much progress and a couple of setbacks but I overcame them. The stock lock that holds the folding stock to the barrel had the pin break off. I drilled out the lock and installed a new plastic pin in it, then adjusted so it holds the stock closer to the barrel. The folding stock shoulder rest also tended to droop under it's own weight. I discovered the locating pin that you use to glue the magazine holder to the barrel and then discard fits into the folding stock tube, thus making the spring "springier" that holds the shoulder rest up against the folding stock. Nice. The sound leaves much to be desired, have ordered Anthony B's sound kit and retrofit it in. I have also painted the stock and barrel and some other pieces with a satin black coat. I am not a skilled weatherer so that is a challenge. I accidentally epoxied the folding stock pivot pin to the wrong location but discovered it and removed before the epoxy fully set. Pics to come after I clean up a place to take them.
  9. I did figure it out, that particular picture in the assembly manual had me fooled. I then successfully glued my thumb to the folding stock assembly. It peeled a nice chunk off. I have the third coat of primer on but not yet sanded.
  10. First coat of high build primer, then sanded, and a second heavier coat not yet sanded on the barrel. I'm giving it a full 24 hours to cure the thick coat before sanding it. Probably need at least 1 or 2 more to fill the seams between pieces in the vented portion. The magazine kind of put together. Still trying to figure out how to assemble the folding stock parts
  11. I picked up a BlasterMaster kit from someone who didn't have the enthusiasm to sand and finish out all the 3D print lines and I do, so I'm giving it a go. Love the LEDs, nice and bright, but the sound not so much. Researching Anthony's sound board, maybe able to integrate it with the Red and Blue LEDs I already have, for barrel lights and want "Stun" and "Kill" sounds. The rest of the fancy displays I don't need....yet... Package arrived last night, and I got the 3 main barrel pieces glued together and got the "bolt" action to function. It needs more sanding so it doesn't sound like 2 pieces or ridged plastic rubbing together (which of course it is) on both the sliding section of the bolt assembly and the inside of the barrel where it slides. 1st rough sanding of entire barrel assembly and a coat of high build primer to dry all day today then the real fun begins. No sanding of the vent holes yet either. It's going to be a hell of a ride. Pics to come.
  12. I have one of those Disney blasters, I just took it apart and painted it. I added a piece of black tape between the existing plastic "light guide" that runs the length of the barrel as you aren't supposed to be able to see through that barrel through the holes. I had to take it apart again as the trigger switch was cheap and would go off on it's own randomly. Your work is great and need a link to those shapeways parts if possible, and the mini telescope you used.
  13. Please enable 501st access. IG-12485 http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16789
  14. <SALUTE> Dax Corrin here, from Eugene,Oregon. I have a Reserve pilot, Imperial bridge crew, and Death Star gunner fully approved,and am joining this forum to assist new troopers in our garrison to find the gear they need to join our Imperial ranks.
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