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count chocula

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About count chocula

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  • Birthday 11/21/1983

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  • Location
    Houston, TX


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  • 501st Unit
    Star Garrison

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  1. I've been trying for months to get a reliable wireless setup going but to be honest I'm considering going wired. I have one of the units from this thread (and have tried several other wireless setups, some pretty costly), and when it works it works well, but the attachment from my romFX to the wireless receiver in my chest is VERY touchy. I have to fiddle with it (rotating the cable input to the receiver/removing and re-inserting it) for 10 min before every troop to get it working, then try to tape it down in that position. I may just have a shoddy unit. I should probably just find a spot that works and glue them together... Also, it seems like my mouth needs to be as close as possible to the mic to get any output. Sometimes the only way I can get audio is if I actually put it partially in my mouth. This is with the mic volume all the way up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I may just need to try fiddling with the settings more. I really don't want to go wired, but I hate worrying about whether I will have a mic or not on troops. Oh, and for anyone getting hum from wireless interference, try wrapping the receiver in aluminum foil. It worked for me.
  2. The screws are present on the bottom right box in the diagram, they are just dark black and tough to make out. I probably should've made them stand out more... And looking at Tony's build, you are correct about the top left box, I should've included screws around the corners there as well. I can send Joseph an updated version to correct this
  3. Nice! What kind of blasters are those? Must be old republic era
  4. I have Adobe illustrator (also vector-based) and would be happy to help. PM sent
  5. Sweet blaster and helmet, man! Now you need some armor to go with it
  6. You can't join the star garrison forum until you are approved, but you can join the "recruit" page while building your costume. This way you can find out about armor parties, etc. https://www.facebook.com/groups/296336407050926/
  7. I'm in midtown, Jay. A stones throw away. Happy to help if I can. You should also get plugged in to the Star Garrison facebook recruit page (if you have facebook) and maybe get to an armor party.
  8. I did, actually. Here's what they sent me when I asked for a 12mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thank you very much for your inquiry. We have Porro-Abbe prism, 14mm hypotenuse, also we can custom make Porro-Abbe prism, 12mm hypotenuse. Please let me know what qty. are you looking for? Material BK7 or Fused Silica, coating? Best Regards, Tom Zhang Manager Optocity 8900 Columbine Dr. Raleigh, NC 27613 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I asked for a quote for the 14mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe prisms they had in stock (I figured it would cost more to have them make 12mm prisms). They quoted $45 per prism.
  9. I've searched extensively for these prisms. They are sometimes called Porro-Abbe prisms. They seem to be nearly impossible to find. Several websites formerly sold these (e.g. edmundoptics), but have recently discontinued them. Some Russian company still has them on their inventory, but they haven't responded to my emails... I even went so far as to design a 3-d model of the prism that is needed for this scope (a "12mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe prism"). I had them printed in an "optically-clear" resin by a 3-d printing company for only 10 bucks, but even after lots of polishing, I'm not sure they are really clear enough to work properly. They fit very well into the scope I bought from Brian, but the image seen through them is a bit blurry. Also, the prisms used in the moisin nagant scopes must have had mirror coatings on the hypotenuse (maybe on other surfaces, too). I've not been able to find a good way to coat a single surface of a resin prism. If anyone wants a copy of the stl file you are welcome to it. Here's a picture of the 3-d printed clear resin prisms before polishing. I really wanted this to work, but this is going to take a lot more effort, I think. If anyone finds a good solution, I will take two, please.
  10. Looking good! Tino has a great t-track tutorial in this thread. It might be tough to paint the joints (after filling) while leaving the rest of the original finish in place, as whichever paint you use may not match the original finish well. If it were me, I would just try masking off the original finish and painting the joints with wrinkle paint. Let it dry and see how it looks. if you dont like it you can always sand the whole thing down and repaint it all. Best of luck
  11. Thanks, Jon. It looks like you're gearing up for a nice sterling parts build yourself!
  12. Awesome. Thanks! I'll work on these things before I submit for centurion.
  13. I've added in the code/schematics for posterity (page 3). This thing is fun to troop with! A bit heavy though. I'm really wanting to do make some BFGs in the near future (T-21? RT-97c?) I think I may have to go sandy/HWT at some point. Cheers
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