tkrestonva

It's the first pinned topic under the "Assembly, Mods, and Painting" subforum. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=3938

I'm considering adding the additional features to my Hyperfirm MG34 to upgrade it to a screen-accurate DLT-19. What are all the differences between the two, is it just T-track and the ammo feeder? Anything else? Anyone know where I can get the required parts? I know there are a few T-track sellers on this board, what about the other parts? Thanks in advance.

It would be good to move the drop boxes out to the ends of the armor belt. Also consider doing the chest trim mod. Good job on the thigh taper. Nice, clean rig you have there. Well done.

How's the visibility? Do you have any pics as seen from the interior side of the face shield?

How would you holster your blaster given the right-side holster? Do you holster it "backwards"?

That really looks good! Until now I haven't been a fan of the ESB look, but that could very well change. I don't recognize the shoulder bells, but they're obviously not FX. Who made them? Is it AP like the chest/back piece?

Just need to get my pics in . . . I still have some tweaks to make, but I think I've got everything covered.

Very interesting, once again proving that we here at the FISD put far more effort into our costumes/props and hassle over the small details than the original manufacturers ever did.

Hi, my name is Brian and I'm a Star Wars costuming addict. (all together now) - "Hi Brian!" Welcome to our passion.

Good news is I'm finishing up and tweaking my Elite mods, I hope to have pictures up soon. Bad news is I still haven't cracked open my Wii version of The Force Unleashed.

Looks good, better than most of the FX rigs I've seen out there.

I have an RT-Mod bucket with Stomper's HoviMix aerator speakers, they work perfectly with the WalMart voice changer. I'd never sodered or rewired anything before, but Smitty's diagram and instructions made easy work of it. I have the AA battery pack positioned behind the vocoder with the circuit board glued to it. I'll get some pics up in a day or two. Being able to ditch the AA battery pack for a single 9V battery would be a great space saver. I don't have fans installed, if you can find a way to stuff fans in there along with the voice changer I'd like to know about it. As is, my RT bucket is a very snug fit.

Wow, I'd been racking my brain trying to figure out how to keep the thigh pieces together while the glue dried. Magnets - brilliant! I love the shiny paint job! I know a lot of troopers frown on a TK that's too clean, but I like the look. Gotta go polish my armor now, I have a huge troop tomorrow and a bunch of fans to blind with my dazzling white armor. Keep up the good work.

You're the first I've seen to go with the grappling hook and comlink instead of the thermal detonator, awesome! Should the hook & box be closer to the center of the back? There are several closeups you'll need, for example the helmet's lenses and mic tips.

The idea is to use a heat source to soften the plastic just enough to allow you to slightly reshape it. Frankly I'd be suprised if a blow dryer actually got hot enough to do the job, but then again I don't use blow dryers. You could use a heat gun like the type used for removing paint, or a no-cost alternative is to dip the shoulder bell in boiling water long enough for it to soften enough (but not too long) for reshaping.

Nothing in the ANH Elite standard that dictates that the holster will be attached with 2 rivets if doing Stunt, or for that matter 4 rivets for Hero. 2 for stunt vs 4 for hero is screen-accurate, but not explicity called out in the requirements so I can't see how you would be ruled ineligible.

I don't know which kit you have, but for my FX I opted for the canvas-covered belt, vice straight canvas. I'm sure I'm in the minority with my choice. Both are acceptable for Elite, but even though canvas-covered isn't screen-accurate, I like it because it provides more support and an unlimited number of attach points for TK gear.

That's exactly how I attached my holster, and for the same reason. Makes the belt more compact and easier to pack if the holster can be easily attached & removed. The fact that the snaps were similar in both size and appearance to Luke's belt was a unexpected bonus. You can get the snaps at Michaels or some other craft store. Details are in the thread below: --------

Cool, another reference resource.

Man, that was cheesy. On the up side, the stormtroopers looked GREAT! Were those all tour suits?

That's essentially how I did it, except I didn't glue a shimming plate on the half of the strip sticking out. I might do that tonight, just to see if it gives me a cleaner look.

Outstanding! Those are the exact same areas I want to touch up.

I trimmed the chestplate and I'm now trying to do the return edge with the hobby iron. Too high a temperature setting and I melt the plastic, leaving a wavy look when it cools. Too low and the plastic never softens enough to bend. Fortunately I've been practicing on the scrap from the chest trim, so I haven't touched the actual chestplate yet. I have a Hobbico brand custom sealing iron. Can anyone whose done a return edge on FX armor recommend a temperature setting?

You may have already tried Triktoys, but if not they sell ABS cement.

Excellent! Keep 'em coming! The theme music in the background is a nice touch.