The5thHorseman

That's a good start Remember to use a single male snap that goes through the ABS for the upper right section of the Abdominal plate.

Nice!! Is it 1:1 scaled?

Indeed, funny one ! Even though i think it might be a sandtrooper regarding the tear painting. Ooh, it's has been updated since the last time i saw it!! That's cool

Yes, you want to align the drop boxes with the end of the belt, like you've placed them on your pic above. But before doing that I think you can shorten both ends of the belt, they're kind of long right now. Your placement of the end caps (the abs buttons which cover the rivets) is good and the holster placement looks fine too.

Looks very good, the armor is nicely fitted to yourself, it's very pleasant to see! Best of luck ! IMO, there's some things which could be improve for EIB though: - On your left side shot, you seem to have a misalignement between the Ab and the kidney plates. Perhaps du to the fact you're raising your arm but if not, i think you'll be ask to fix it. - Also I think you will be ask to repaint your ab buttons, right now they're a bit too little Reference: - And on the right side shot, it looks like you could trim a bit more of your ab plate.

Thanks for the input Mathias. I think i will change for an other blue in this case.

Nice job! As Mathias said, the frown ends need to be more pointy. Also i'm not sure about the pinstraps as it is right now, maybe if you cut it in half to avoid having to paint over it, or just go handpainting the whole way. And i have to say that i always though the "French Blue" wasn't the proper blue and looking at your "Mediterranean Blue" it looks pretty obvious to me that this one is clearly better! If someone knows: is the "French Blue" from a specific reference of an original helmet? PS: Your mic tips are funny, they look... erected !

Nice progress! Keep up like that

Good thing to see a RS belt with the end caps at the right place Just watch out, the rivets location for the holster provided by RS is wrong. They should be place on the 1/3 inferior of the belt not in the middle like they indicate.

Nicely done! That's on my "to-do" list too. So, when will you build an armor ?

The Sniper knee plate looks fine to me. Front is centered, ridges are aligned, and wings ends are straight

It's nice if you have someone to help you with the build! However, if you want to go for EIB with your Hasbro blaster you will have to grind the lower left t-track and drill a new row of holes instead

That's a great choice! Congratulation Steve and good luck! And thank you Eric for having made the interim

I know there was someone in the French garrison who were looking for this suit some time ago

Also, the cover strips don't need to go all the way down. Stop just before the bottom ridges. By the way you have the same problem with the front of you shins. The flat area is wider than your cover strips. Do you really need the extra room it gives you? Because if not, i would recommand you to adjust the width of the flat sections with the width of you cover strips (around 20-25mm).

Just the second rivet that goes through the thigh but on the inner half It's important to have this one located on the bottom ridge of the thigh too.

I agree with that. IMO from distance, most people won't even notice the molded lips if you reduce the cover strips width, whereas they will notice the extra wide cover strips.

Yes, but solid domed rivets are allowed for Centurion. So split rivets won't prevent you from getting the CENT approval . Have you set the inner rivet in the thigh ridge too? However, i won't rely too much on the main belt template from Billhag. The side caps placement is wrong. They should be almost edge to edge with the belt ends and not centered. This would be more accurate but also allow the drop boxes to rigthly line up with the belt ends.

Should I replace the ones that came with the kit? Which ones do you guys recommend? Keith's tips? Yes, and yes . It would be better to replace tehm. Oh, and really nice T-shirt

I think we can assume that they repainted the armors for ESB as they look really neat in the film, and maybe they were also repainting some armor pieces or whole set in case by case during ANH to hide major scratches/deteriorations. But if the armors were indeed in white ABS, i don't see the point to paint all of them from the beginning, it would be a waste of money and time for a film that wasn't already a success. Also i think remembering that the helmets were formed before the armors, and perhaps when they see the material used (which ever it was) they specifically ask for a material which wouldn't require painting to form the armors. Once again that's only my assumptions here .

This thread might interest you Steve. http://thepropden.aokforums.com/1-vt3482.html

I think the velcro will absorb the loctite (which is liquid) making it unable to glue anything. Maybe if you find some Loctite in gel form it might work though.

You can ask for the status here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

For the Ab buttons, try to mimic those ones: And careful, the larger button plate is positioned upside down on you picture About the belt, the outer caps should be almost edge to edge with the end of the belt. And your trimming of the caps looks good as it is right now.

If you line them with the inner corner, it won't prevent you from getting basic approval and perhaps EIB too. But if you want it accurately positioned, it's better to line the drop boxes with the outer edge of the belt.