The5thHorseman

Make it on the inside. There's a good tutorial about how to do it on this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21390-geaux-saints-anh-stunt-build-tm/page-7

It should do the job for basic approval but i would try to fix your elbow gap before submitting for EIB. it's better to have a wrist gap than an elbow gap. To do so, you can add strapping between the biceps and the forearms: Or and instead of fitting the biceps inside the shoulder bells, you can place them one on the other: Also, it would be good if you could close your shoulder bells more in the front. The closer, the better !

Nice work on the ears! They look nicely fitted!

TK-14492 requesting access please http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16451 Thanks

I hope i won't sound to rough but i think there are many things to fix in order to be approved: - Your elbow gap needs to be reduced. If you add strapping between your forearms and your biceps it will solve the problem and also prevent your forearms from twisting too much outwards. - Also, the gap between your kydney and back plate looks too wide. I think if you lower your back plate by lengthening your shoulder straps and also shorthening the strapping between the back and the kydney plate it should close the gap. - Your ammo knee belt is rightly set but the rivets going through the upper corners are missing. i think you'll need to add them, even if they aren't functionnal. Just don't use pop rivets for that. - Your left shin seems to close the wrong side. The inner half covers the outer half whereas it should be the opposite. However i read here from Gino, about the eFX armor, that the original Hero armor they had was assembled this way, so maybe Hero builds will be allowed to close them like that. - Are your thighs overlapped in the back? Because the overlapping technique has been forbidden for Centurion. However as it's just been announced today so perhaps the DO will make an exception for you - Are the inner drop boxes complete? Because flat covers are no longer allowed. Once again it's just been announced today so perhaps the DO will make an exception for you. - Your side rivets aren't really evenly spaced along the side nor facing each other. - Your side shims might need some camouflage too to be less noticeable. - Your biceps look really wide on you. Would be a good thing to resize them a bit. And you need to post a pic of the crotch rivet and forearms wrist return edges. Nothing impossible to fix so keep it up! Good luck !!

It's good to hear and see things moving! Good job to everyone who have been involved in that I will gladly start the french translations as soon as possible for my garrison, so if you need them Eric just PM me

That looks good! Well done! Perhaps you could just bring the abdominal/kydney section a bit down. It would solve your kydney overlapping back problem and reduce a bit your thighs gap at the top.

Good retrieval on your your helmet, good job!! However you got too much return edge on the wrist ends of your forearms. There shouldn't be any: Easier fix than the faceplate though

Looks very good, why worry?

In fact, RS is already providing his kit. I know they've supplied some and i think they're still doing it.

Very interesting! I have a ton of questions about it but i'll wait your thread in the 'Other 501st Costumes' section to see the final result

It would be amazing if you could supply soft parts too! I can't wait to see the final result

Actually Bobamaker doesn't sell the backpack, or he hasn't referenced it on his website. But if TM has finally finished his kit of Snowtrooper that's a good news! I might begin to re-interest myself in this costume:)

I'd just want to say: +1 for the mustache !! And congrats for your EIB of course And for your future Centurion application, it looks like your belt kept going lower on your pictures, is it because it wasn't attached to the abdominal plate? Or maybe unsnapped? Because we can see the snaps on both the belt and the ab on your detailed pics. Also you're ears are very thick. That shouldn't prevent you from Cent; but it something i would improved one of these days.

Swedish approvals go fast! Congratulation!! Nothing better than a good news and a cup of tea at the same time In fact, i wasn't really thinking about pinching but more in term of accuracy:). Most of the original thighs i can see have their cover strips cut this way; not all but seems like the majority to me.:

I'm quoting Steve who wrote a good post on how to attach the back with the facelate, i hope it will help you. And when you put your magnets, be sure to start from the middle of the faceplate to the ears.

That's a brilliant job we have here! Congratulation! The only things i would modify would be to: - Bring your right biceps down a little bit - On the thighs, you can cut the top of your back cover strips following the thigh line ...and that's all ! Just mind your gloves when you put them on, here both are badly tuck inside your forearms And now what about your blaster build ?!?

Also when using a single lense, it leaves the bottom corners open (the lense isn't flat against the helmet) which helps for air circulation

The best is to use 2'' wide, white elastic straps

Good luck then ! I hope you'll be ok. Mind the heat while doing it to avoid melting the ABS, work little step at a time and leave it time to cool down sometimes

Love this brow!! Nicely done!

I think you can trim out a bit more of the eyes. But the real issue would be the Faceplate gap. It seems that there is a physical gap between your brow trim and the faceplate. there shouldn't be such a wide gap, the brow should be almost up against the faceplate. -------------- Is there rivets under the ears? Or can you disassemble the faceplate from the cap&back to bring it forward?

I would say ABS paste, sandpaper, then novus polish would be the best way to hide a transition.

I'd say there's some points to work on. First, it's nice to see your side junctions looking perfect now, good job on that ! Now the few things i would improve: - Hyperfirm put really too much brass on their scopes. You should reduce the weathering down with black paint. - Also you could clean up the molding lines on the blaster (e.g: on the end cap/ the top of the scope, etc...) - Your shoulder bells could be more closed on the front. For proper shoulder belles like RS ones, you should be able to close them more than they are right now. The Closer the Better ! - Your right thigh could be brought up a little (again:p). - What's the holster tan straps width ? RS has the tendency to make them too wide. They should be around 20mm. - Also on the holster, you have fastened the top of the strap to hold the blaster really off-centered. i don't know if it matters but i've always see them fastened to the middle. And this strap should go through the holster and be fastened by the side facing the thigh. And lastly a cosmetical one: i would switch the neck trim junction to the front of the helmet as the gap between the two lips is rather big. This way it would be hidden Good luck with your approval !

The thing i did which truly allowed me to fit this thing has been to flatten the ridge circled below: This way i've been able to bring this wing slightly higher than normally and that really helped me. But I also had to slightly reshape it with heat.