The5thHorseman

That term is a bit ambiguous, i think "Standard rivet" is commonly used to designate "pop rivets" nowadays.

About the Thighs: You're right, i'm just presuming the look would be better with thinner back cover strips, and i'm maybe wrong as i haven't seen what would be the result, unlike you . About the kidney: I just noticed that because my bro is currently building up an ATA and we had the same problem but we went with the opposite way. IMHO i don't think a perfect match up between the kidney and the butt plate matters that much, if an ANH stormtrooper requires a separate Butt/kidney plate that's because there was separate molds for them. The picture you linked with an unique kidney-butt plate shows a ROTJ suit, which were really different from ANH. Anyway, as i said i don't think it would prevent you from obtaining your CENT (if i'm the one who's right), and the fact Jose Andrés had his centurion conforts me in that way! The DO will have the final word And sorry if i made you spend so much time in research about it ^^

I don't know about the source, etc... but looking at the parts and the background pic i think it has some nice details and it looks definitely better than the blaster you have right now. There will be a bit of work of sanding the molding lines but i think it will be easily EIB/CENT acceptable.

What Eric is saying is, people who use very wide cover strip in the back is for hidding a gap, like on the diagram i made below. But on the inner pic of your tigh we can see there's no gap, each half of your thigh close edge to edge with its opposite. So there's no real need for such wide cover strips. I understand if you go with thinner ones , the ridges of the two halves wouldn't be hidden by the cover strips edges however i think your look would be really better with thinner back cover strips . Also, a bit awkward but i think you have mounted your kidney plate upside down... I might be wrong, but looking at Ref pics you can see that the kidney flares more at the top rather than at the bottom: (Hig-res pics) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/sizes/514-screenshot73007jpg/large/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/sizes/458-screenshot72881jpg/large/ To be confirmed and anyway, it might not prevent you from obtaining your Centurion.

It's funny because i was looking for side shots too lately. Here's the best i could find (even though it's a Hero):

You will also need a proper set of ears with three bumps and not four like the Stunts.

Shoulder bridges are 2'' wide elastic straps.

- My major concern for your application would be your elbow gap which looks very large. It could be easily improve by strapping the biceps and the forearms together to bring your forearms up. It's better to have a large wrist gap than an large elbow gap (even though here bringing your forearms up won't make your wrist gap big). - Also, your kidney plate seems very loose. Might be a good thing to tighten/shorten the strapping between it and the back plate. Or it's maybe your belt which is to tight around your waist. - And i'm surprised you need shims regarding your weight. Are they really essential? Anyway, good luck for your application!

If you reduce the return edges size it should give more flexibility to your kidney plate. They seem quite large right now, so if you're not planning to use brackets you can trim them down a bit

I'm glad to hear it. For all of those who have already visit the MEPD, they have a really great application form, and after having seeing it i was hoping for a DO to establish something like that for some time. Good step forward for the FISD In the same time, I'm having a though for Phil (FunkyTrigger) who had a hard time as a DO and i'm sad to hear he's resigning as i think he did a great job

Cool, ça me fait plaisir tu ais pu régler ce problème ! Résultat quand mon frère en sera à ce niveau je saurais directement où l'orienter

Very nice job, that's really impressive ESB clamshell? And is that an Alien in the background:p ? Man it's freaking cool!

Mathias is right. Ideally it should be 7mm CAP rivets, but split rivets are allowed too for centurion

Merchandising around SW is really crazy! (i think C3PO wouldn't be the character i'm the most interested on though:p)

Notching the back of the thighs is canon, so don't worry about your Centurion application

Looks like you know what you have to do. I would just recommand you to heatform your butt plate before cutting anything Waiting for your pictures when you'll be ready

I did a same notch on my AP too

I'd say, don't restrain yourself by looking at only one type of armor builds. In the end, we all tend to the same result, no matter from which armor maker the armor comes from. There are specific issues that come with each kit (except TM i guess) so yes look at some builds of your armor maker but in the end the basis are the same for all. The main ressources i used: - The "photos References" here on the FISD are priceless. To be checked before all the rest! (you can zoom all the images by right-clicking them): http://www.whitearmo.../forum/gallery/ - The Stukatrooper's albums on Flickr, even though there're a bit old now (easy to find with google) - The Geaux Saint's TM build here on the FISD - The EIB & CENT applications are also useful (always look at the Photo References first though). - and a lot of others build, just picked up informations here and there In the end, you can always ask here, there should always be a kind soul to answer you

For my thighs gather, i used what i had at the moment but i'm pretty with the result. So far it's doing the job I just had to ensure the elastic straps are long enough so the D-rings are hidden behind the top of the thighs.

The thing you can do is to link the bottom of your shins with your boots. It's a bit tricky to pop it on but it works really great. The first purpose of this mod is to keep your shin from twisting but i'm sure it can also keep your shin from rising up. In addition to the popper you can also add some padding so the shins are a bit tighter around your legs. And congrats on re trimming your biceps, i had to do it to and it was a hard decision to take!

Nice looking helmet! Wear it proudly For your left bicep what you could do is to let the front cover strips in place but to remove the rear ones and then to trim down the rear halves until the fit is good. Remove the flat sections if needed, i believe these sections are here only for those who want to assemble their armor with the overlaping technique. As a pic is always better than an endless speech:

First of all congratulation for all the work you've been through and accomplished. All the guys who have already built an armor know it's an huge amount of work! Now, few things that could be done to improve your armor: - Your belt is far too low. In fact it should slightly cover the bottom of the abdominal buttons as you can see on the pic below: - Your shins should be overlapped over the top of your boots - Also it looks like your left shin close the wrong way (or it's maybe just a visual impression). The outer half should cover the inner half. - Your holster shouldn't be looped around your belt but fastened by the inside of the canvas belt for an ANH trooper. - Your left bicep looks really wider than your right one. Makes it look like a bit odd. - On your pictures the tube strips on your helmet look straight and not bent backwards. And about your thighs why not just twisting them outward when you want to sit rather than cutting them?

That's why i thought it would be a bit too long but regarding your pic with the ruler the length appears to be fine

BTW, your TD looks a bit long to me on your picture. It's maybe just a visual impression but anyway, here's the lenght you should aim at if ever it isn't the case right now :

Ok, so i ordered the s-trim and today i've finally received it First very good news, the material supplied is actually long enough to make two s-trim Close-up on the shape: And installed on my helmet: The trim is naturally curved in one direction, so when i installed it i bent it in the opposite of its natural curve. Now that it's set in place, the trim naturally wants to regain its shape and by doing that it presses against the neck opening so no glue is required. And finally my helmet is Centurion Level !