The5thHorseman

About the right ear, i would trim more at the back of the curved section. This way it should allow you to close the front when pressing the ear against the helmet. About the left one, IMO the only way to close the gap would be to drop the ear a little lower (like your right one BTW). But as they are now, i think you did a pretty good job ! NE ears seem to be really bad to fit properly.

Edit: Panda handled it

I understand you, i had the same problem and damn my collar bone was sore at the end of the day! About your last video (6.5) and the strapping of the drop boxes, i think it's more accurate to use 1inch white elastic than nylon webbing: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18031-original-and-replica-prop-stormtrooper-belt/

Indeed, the CRL says 8 teeth should be cut out, and it looks like you've cut 10 of them. (Even though some troopers hadn't eight teeth cut out.)

As blasters are optionnal, i think you can submit your application without any blaster and get your EIB.

If you've asked Paul to build it for you, your armor will be Centurion ready out of the box.

If you need to add shims to your sides then the split rivets should be set on the shims. Basically people set the split rivets on the abdominal plate normally, then placed the shims on the kidney plate and once the left shim is set, the split rivets onto it. For the rivets placement, follow this pic the closer you can:

Yep, you look fantastic! Perhaps you could just even the top of the thighs back cover strips: Also try to heatbend a bit the butt plate ends to avoid too much flaring out. And move the sticker which is inside your left shin, i can see it on your back shot

Damn, is it all strapped together? That went so fast!! However, it looks like you've set the inner rivet of the ammo knee belt at the wrong place. It should be located on the thigh bottom ridge just like the outer rivet. Also, your left biceps seems wider than the right one which is a bit disturbing. But you did some really good job and overall you look very good!

I guess you can just leave the velcro as it is right now if it fits you well, but just glue a cover strip on the back of the outer half to make it looks accurate.

Shins do kind of overlap in the back: (pic of a left shin) You can see the cover strip glued on the half with the hooks, and then when you set the hooks in their eyes, the outer half and the back cover strip overlap the inner half.

Very useful pic to follow when building a thermal detonator :

For basic approval your Frown still needs to be tapered at the ends: Should be an easy fix though

Everything looks good so far! Just try to do the black outlines the thinner possible when you will paint the grey And yes, the first coat of paint can take very long to dry so don't forget to check it before applying the second coat.

Yes, don't bother too much. Just keep that in mind if ever you have the building nostalgia when your armor will be over

That's a really good fit for a first full-suited test! Good job! And yes, the junction between the kidney plate and the back plate needs to be tightened. I think you'll need to reduce the length of the straps between them and also lower the back plate by increasing the shoulder bridges' length (in this case, wait to do it before regluing you shoulder bridges). Also, don't forget to paint your side rivets and think about wearing your neck seal when suiting up. Just to check if it hides the logo on the back of your undersuit and also if the chest plate doesn't choke you too much.

Everything looks pretty good so far! As you have it right now i think it should be Centurion approvable, but perhaps you could shorten a bit the wings of the ammo knee belt. This way you would be able to position the front of the ammo belt lower on the thigh and thus decrease the angle made between the belt and the thigh: If you decide so, just make sure you keep enough length to position the rivet in the same hole you did in the thigh's ridges.

Teeth look good, and if you prefer them like that, then keep them like that! Wouhouu, maybe the best pun ever did !

Is this a Centurion stopper? I don't know. I mean, the CRL states there shall be 6 rivets spaced evenly along the left side of the armor which is the case here... We need the DO's opinion here! But i would say, if you can, yes it would be better to fix it, like you did on your picture above.

There's a little issue with your rivets, the lower one on the abdominale plate shouldn't be placed under the ridge between the ab and the cod: However, most of the time this rivet isn't visible as there's the belt over it. So i guess i won't be a visual issue once the armor will be complete.

Nice to see a RS belt with the end caps and drop boxes rightly placed! Quite rare those days unfortunately...

First i hope your wife and daughter are fine ! About your thighs, they look perfect, they're rightly fitted to you and that's cool to see!! For the Ammo knee belt, the length of the ends depends of the bottom of your right thigh. Just wrap it around (you can but don't bother too much aligning the thigh's front cover strip with the middle ammo box, the most important is the rivets placement) and then mark the length required on both sides to reach the back of the ridge. Both rivets go through the upper corner of the knee belt wings to the bottom ridge of the thigh. Then you can glue the front to avoid shifting if you want. Rivets are painted white. And if the ammo knee belt makes a 45° angle with the thigh it doesn't matter, it just happens sometimes. Like the one on the right of the picture below: And 2,5mm for the TD strips might be too thick. I fear they would break before bending as much as necessary. Good to see you're back on track though!

I was referencing at this pic, but in fact i just realized that it's not your armor, but a reference pic you took! So FYI be aware that you should be able to draw a straight line between two facing rivets unlike on this picture.

If you haven't any mesh behind your frown i think you could easily be able to drink with a straw without removing your helmet. And this could also be a nice shot for people around

Helmet should be good to go. However i think you could tighten up the bottom screw of the right ear to bring the curve closer to the tube, or maybe even drill a new hole closer to the neck opening.