Dday

The rails from the first DVH run from Lou were using 2 or 3mm thick Aluminum, which can be tough to bend and has a tendency to break. I found the rails I provided with the Euro runs at the local hardware store. They had 1meter aluminum strips, 20mm wide and 1.5mm thick. For the henglstler bracket I got some L shaped aluminum and cut it with a dremel cutter so it ends up shaped like a T with the bottom part bent over at 90%. The best part was since the angle was already made there was no fear of breaking and since it's 1.5mm thick, it doesn't stress out to much when bent and break.

This build is way too organized! I'm really looking forward to the rest once the kit arrives. It should be around the end of this week if the arrival of some other kits went a few days before is any indication.

You aren't in such a bad condition with that armor. The most obvious problems are the material, as lots of pointed out, is generally heavier then ABS as well as there sometimes being the extra roughness on the inside that will snag and wear out your underclothes pretty quickly. From the looks, the back/kidney plate is a single piece, which means that to be a little more accurate, they will need to be separated, but as you can read in the CRL notes, you can have them as one piece for basic approval. You will need some extra pieces to complete the build. You will need a belt to connect the fiberglass belt to, which you then wrap the rest of the way around your waist. Those long black pieces in the bottom of your photo are what they would have you use, I would suggest you get a belt. Check the on-going accessories listing in the on-going sale thread, it's at the top. There is a belt maker here who can probably do the shadow trooper belts as well. You will also need a holster and gloves. As was suggested, head over teh the spec ops page and register there. the white and black troopers while similar can be a little different in places and those guys are all about the shadow trooper, but here, you will find the most activity and a lot of people from here are there as well. So split your time between both places. You can and will salvage your situation, you're not in so bad. Gl putting it together, start up a WIP thread and ask as many questions as you need, there will always be someone willing to pitch in. Also, get in touch with your local garrison, there are generally some people who are willing to join you in your area to pass some experience on and I know in my case, I like building armors, so will jump in a car and help build, but I'm in Germany, so thats probably not going to happen.

Loving it! Do you mind if I add your WIP to the Euro DVH sale thread for future DHV builders to come to see the work you have done to help answer any questions they may have?

You really need to have the suit in front of you and have examined it from top to bottom to really get the handle on the build threads, what they are talking about and visualize it on your unbuilt armor. Trust me, once you get your kit, it will all come into place. Building the armor is very self explanatory and any small questions that come up are quickly handled by the great people here on the FISD, or by the existing WIP threads. There are some good ones, some better ones and then there are the ones that go into every minor detail! Just do a search in the work in progress section and look for one with a lot of pages on it, these are usually the best ones and there is a lot of detail.

Heya, if you're looking for a fun project, I will have a very nice DVH E-11 pipe build kit I could put you on the list for. I should be shipping it within 2 weeks. It is 100 Euros, including shipping.

Hi tolo, depending on the size of the shims really. But if at all possible, they need to be 10mm from the edge of each piece. Basically, the rivets should be relocated onto the shim itself. Now if the shim is only a few CM, it won't be a big deal either way. But to hold the proper look the rivets need to go on the shims about 10mm from the edge of each piece.

Vern, saying EBAY is never acceptable here is wrong. Sometimes there are actual good suits and equipment you can find on ebay. Good members who want to sell their suits there because they haven't gotten the interest in or feel safer selling it there. The majority of the time, armor bought from EBAY is wrong. Before buying armor from EBAY, you need to have done your research and understand the differences in armors. Then you can make the decision if this armor if a good deal, accurate and so on. We can't fully count out a complete site for selling and buying items. It's down to education and taking care when looking. There are tons of good things on ebay that can be bought that are accurate, well priced and perfectly acceptable to buy.

Excellent. I took the plunge and ordered the bottle of dye. For sale, size UK 3 kits trooper boots to make room for my new UK4

Paul, thanks! Just a paintbrush and away we go type of thing, your boots look so smooth, almost like a airbrush?

Paul, I'm looking for some of the paint here to paint my sons new boots I ordered, since the UK3 has grown to small in the last few months. The Angelus over here comes in 29,5ml and 118ml. How much did you use to get yours done good? I'm pretty certain I need to get the 118ml one, but I might need 2 or more. Hoping you can give me a tip on the amount required for a UK4. Also, I should be wiping down with acetone prior to painting right, to strip the finish, drying then painting with angelus, like some of the other people have done? Thanks, Derrek

So, is there any reason a fan should be 12v vs 5v? I get that a 12v will last longer because there is more power behind it, but a fan rated at 5 should draw less power and be able to have a smaller battery pack? Or should it just be a fan rated from 5-12 so allow for options? Looking for some opinions on the voltage rating of fans, anyone might have. Thanks! Derrek

I do notice a broken photo on the header to the far right of each posters name. For example, left says Locitus, far right has the #9, then a broken photo link.

Well, not just you, but anyone.

your name is array when you view new posts and see who made the latest post.... after upgrade.

I decided to order a 13 euro memory pillow and I will cut this foam to fit. Back on topic, how are the legs and completion of your suit coming?

True, the person would have to conform to your view of how to strap things up. I think it wouldn't really be to hard to build up a solid starter kit with all the materials required for building the suit. But then again, we're not trying to take the work away, we're trying to empower new armor owners. So learning where to get all the various parts is a part of the fun

I'd have to agree, it's not something you would ever make money on. IF you did setup a kit, it would be more for the sake to get your name out there and to help those in the community starting out. I do know that when I was starting, if I could have bought a strapping starter kit for a reasonable (read affordable) price, I would have.

As to an answer to your question, no. there is noone who offers a full strapping kit. The closest we currently have is mr no stripes who offers the original bracket strapping system with the elastics, wire and screws, but nothing for the arms. I have not heard of anyone doing a full snap style strapping kit.

Yes! Hoping to troop in my vader, as long as I can get my shoulder padding sorted out right.... Now to find some memory foam in Germany without buying a 80 euro pillow and cutting it up. Any ideas?

Hi Dan, hope to see you wearing it at some events soon!

I have some ideas of how a screw fastened on the back of the sniper plate could be used, and not seen from the front, ingenious.

Haha, love the lego leia!

BFA? There is not supposed to be a rivet on the sniper plate. You are supposed to glue the sides down and hold them in place while they cure with clamps or magnets, you also add the same glue to the middle of the sniper plate where it touches the shin. detailed photos of you knee would be great to help us determine how you can go about it with your specific make of armor.

The 1.5mm ABS is white, flexible and easy to maintain, very hard to crack, will last a very long time. The 1mm PVC is a little lighter in weight, since it's thinner, very flexible, hard to crack, but you can crease it if you fold it over to much, will last a very long time and is ULTRA white. As for materials, they are basically the same in terms of durability, longevity and everything else. It's all down to personal preference. the PVC is ultra white, and the ABS is still very white, but 1 or 2 shades creamier, like it was in the movies.