Dday

Wow, can't work for two weeks?! More time for building the armor I guess!

And me selling holsters and Ab buttons for FX and other old kits isn't an E-Shop either. So, hi, hows things with you?

We are on the dark side aren't we? If we wanted to be good, honest, upstanding citizens we would be Rebels.

Seems pretty straight forward to do. If you have a shadow trooper kit, most of the hard work is done. You wouldn't need to paint the jodpuhrs, only the sole! However, white leather for the holster might be troublesome. Time for some dye I think.

I ended up painting my E11 with a bottle of Krylon without the little nozzle.. It was hard, but it turned out ok. It actually gave it a little bit of a nice uneven, rough look that is natural in the E11's! But I surely didn't like it while painting.

I had a similar problem with a certain type of nozzle. I can't remember the brand, but the nozzle was supposed to be a two part nozzle. The button activator and a small twisty piece that let me change between vertical and horizontal spraying. This little piece was missing so instead of coming out in a fine mist, it was big globs. Maybe you have this type of can as well and are missing part of it?

Sie können eine PM an "troopermaster" im Forum

The panel is smaller, the clips are smaller, the center of the ring sticks out vs being a doughnut, the buttons look longer and closer together

Here is a ROTJ one from CFO, the best source for ROTJ parts! This TD is from TK11038

The difference is in the text, not the pictures. The photos are all ANH Stunt. The only one that is truly different is the ROTJ one I believe. Do a search in the centurion threads for a ROTJ costume to get a look at what the ROTJ ones look like.

Oh, also, make sure the ridge on the thigh piece that goes from the top to the bottom, where the strip sits on is not smaller then the strip itself. The ridge should be approximately the same width or a little wider then the strip. If you have a big thigh, you can make it bigger just as long as it is in scale with the others that are shown.

Picture 1 The cut the corners of the strip at an angle to clean up the look. When you align the two halves of the thigh piece itself, make sure the bottom lip is aligned since that area is next to impossible to trim. It's better to align the big lip on the bottom and trim the top to sit better.

Yup, lines look good, doing a fine job. I echo Hawks comments on the return edges, it's the same for the biceps also. A little return edge on the upper edge, none on the lower edge.

I voted!

TM and RS, in that order IMO. MFX is not in there in any way shape or form. Recasting aside, using HIPS is just silly. Given the price that the owner of the MFX suit paid, I"m confused why he got the 'cheap' version. He paid premium price and got a subpar product. That is however, a separate issue that will need to be dealt with by the suit owner and the manufacturer. What I like about quality suits from quality vendors is you have one quality kit, you buy it once, and you never have to worry about it again. You don't have to go back and forth, you don't have to think if you got the cheap or the expensive version. You just get the good stuff, the first go around! Paul (Troopermaster) will get all of my business in the future, without me even thinking about another vendor. I am that satisfied with his quality of product and level of service.

Hi Francisco, Geaux Saints made a great build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21390-geaux-saints-anh-stunt-build-tm/page__st__120 using a Troopermaster suit. You can use it for reference on the placement of the strapping and the photos are pretty clear as to the location and depth of the edges.

I'm not talking a true escrow account, but rather using that word. when you chip into or join a kickstarter project, or any other crowd-scourcing website, they take the money right away. then then hold it in a pot for the project. AKA, a bank account of some sort. When the project reaches it's goal, the project people get the money. If it doesn't reach it's goal, the money gets returned to the owners. So, for however long that money is sitting, the website owners are making that money on interest. I have no problem with them making money. like you said Tray, a business is a business. I just have a problem with all these people thinking they are playing in a marry little joke when they are in fact just making someone rich because they dind't think about what happens to their money in the mean time. The mindless masses. So kickstarter makes money off the money sitting in an account for the project, then don't they get a fee as well on top of that if the project goes ahead?

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-57568554-1/$11-million-sought-to-build-x-wing-counter-kickstarter-death-star/ what these people don't realize is that kickstarter is getting rich off holding these peoples money in escrow. sure when the project fails to get enough, the people get their money back, but in the mean time kickstarter is getting fat off of a joke. Lucky them.

1. The elastics should be sewn together. Make sure they are not very long. The elastics should be slightly stretched in resting position. This will help to ensure minimal gaps when you're actually wearing the armor. 2. You are correct with the shoulder bridges. E11 will work good, but the originals were not glued with E11 but rather another type of white glue that sets very very solidly. The left shoulder strap should be glued at the front and back, and the right will be glued at the back and snapped in the front. (Left and right are as the armor sits on your body). 3. You are correct. Some people put their snaps through a small cut of nylon, then glue this on the ABS, this works well. Others use a small tab of ABS to do the same. Some prefer the Nylon since it is flexible and has full contact without heat shaping the ABS tabs around the snaps. I think ABS tabs look better since the armor is white, and so is the ABS. It's inside, so no one sees it, but I know it's there. The original suits didn't have any snaps to hold the pieces together like the arms and legs. The only snaps were on the one shoulder bridge, to hold the belt to the left and right of the Ab plate, the chin strap on the helmet and thats it if I remember right.

No, the actual crotch in the middle is thick, very thick. the very edges where it broke is thin like eggshell though. It just shows how uneven the pull is. thin at the edges thick in the middle.

If those aren't his normal MFX shins and thighs that I photographed, I'm confused as to why he sold them as such...? I think a replacement is in order... The shins you posted look familiar though.

See the following thread for comparisons and detailed photos and we can get back to R2troopers regularly scheduled program. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23013-comparing-moviefx-germany-rs-propmasters-uk-and-troopermaster-uk

TM Junior for the win!

nice that they replied so fast and will be replacing it, it's really a shame it got pinched in shipping.

My final thoughts.... The majority of this suit is not recast from anything I compared it to, with the exception of a few parts. The ab plate looks like RS and MFX are the same The biceps, arms look very similar but I'm not 100% I'll leave that to someone else. The helmets, well there is no comparing them there. to me they have no similarities. MFX is to small and shaped more idealistic then the others, which are more screen accurate. If I was to go to someones house and look at these three armors, even in their uncut form.. which would I buy? Hands down the Troopermaster. The pieces fit together, they look spectacular, the lines are awesome the material is hands down the best. RS PVC is nice, shiny and robust but I still prefer the 1.5mm TM ABS, personal preference. It is more realistic. Both TM and RS pulls are very very good. The material is evenly spread, similar thickness throughout and very very flexible. MFX material is dull HIPs, thick in some areas, thin in others, prone to cracks and not flexible at all. Evidenced by the crack in the crotch, the crack in the bracket edges. The crotch area is SUPER thick, the shins on the FMX can barely open they are so stiff.