gmrhodes13

A few more of the fine details done, finished the sight and recessed a push switch into the trigger, can't be seen from the outside. Also sanded the curve into the base so the barrel sits in lower, now it's looking a better sizing.

Getting some detailing done

Just posted on TAG, thanks everyone involved with this month's newsletter, your time and effort is appreciated.

Awesome news on approval, well done Andrew, even the long path can be rewarding

Some nice work, just try to narrow a couple of your black lines on your cheeks, will look a lot crisper, carry on the great work

Cut the v sections into both the end caps, also found some material in the embroidery section at Spotlight very similar to machine knurling

I used 2 hi-bright LED's and a laser sight from a builders level tool. I placed a LED inside the barrel on both ends facing inward so the light is even down the barrel, I then removed the laser tip from the level tool and fit it inside the front of the muzzle. All three where then soldered to the same wires, one going directly to the + pos side of the battery box and the other I took off the - neg side of the Hasbro circuit board. You can also use cheap toy guns if you can find ones with nice blaster sounds, adding light to these are done roughly the same way, it's just a matter of fining what-polarity is coming off the trigger switching side, if it's + pos you solder the wired there and then the other to the - neg of the battery, if it's - neg coming from the switch then you put the other wire to the + pos side of the battery box. Here is a diagram of what I do with the rubies DL-44's, in this picture I took the neg power from the board but it comes directly from the neg on the battery box.

The bells are the same but there is a taper on the center ridge towards the bottom, I asked the DO at the time of my build and was told the tapper should angle backwards. After watching ANH a few more times I see a lot of the troopers wear their bells taper backwards.

Hello and welcome aboard

Great work

Butt plate looks fine, I think there was a difference with the bells, but my memory may fail me, I have to give my kit a wipe down later so I will check mine

Nice work on the bucket so far, but the TD is looking a little long, I think you will find that the max length should be 7.5". Keep up the great work

I use a two piece setup, a men's long sleeve tee and don't laugh but womens leggings, works a treat. I know others use compression clothing and full piece suits. Two piece allows you to undo the cod straps and arrange yourself for toilet breaks LOL.

Nice work

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As long as it is black it does not matter, I used flyscreen mesh for the hardware shop, it comes in plastic or metal, I prefer the metal as you can curve it so it sits nicely on the teeth

Happens to us all, start with something easy and I am sure you will do fine

Awesome, the big brown box, now look at it in amazement and excitement, done that, now the panic will just about set in right about now LOL. Good luck with the build, looking forward to the progress

Definitely and are acceptable for EIB and Centurion, the soapy water trick is the way to go, allows you to move the decals into the right position when applying, oh and just in case you didn't know the cheek stripes should be positioned a pencil thickness from the sides

Looking good, the only thing I would comment on is position of some of the armor, your back plate seems to be squashing out a little, perhaps some padding behind the ab plate to help push it forward, the gap around your elbows is a little large, could bring your biceps down a little, also the ab plate and belt are on an angle, just try to straighten everything up a bit. Good luck with approval

I don't use Velcro that has the sticky backing, that will fail if you blow on it . Non adhesive Velcro with E6000 works

I just use standard haberdashery Velcro, hasn't failed as yet

E6000 works fine but I have also used a contact adhesive, yellow in color, you apply to both sides wait to get tacky then apply together. I just like the ability to remove and was foam, some troops can be pretty sweaty

I had seen that thread after I found the RS info on the French 501st site http://www.501stfrenchgarrison.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7155&sid=0bcd03a8ec1e7f1d8f64d19417a48b1b . It's amazing what obscure things you find using a search button

I use velcro glued to the foam and inside the lid, that allows you to remove it and give it a wash from time to time, did the same with my forearm foam