gmrhodes13

Still there is nothing in there that says anyone who agreed to terms in their pre order can't request a refund now, it depends how you read into what is there, so if anyone on the pre order list is still thinking of a refund I'd suggest asking for one

Well they will consider refunds once they are in stock: "We will continue to honor any existing refund requests made prior to this policy change as business permits, and will still consider future refunds for customers after a product is in-stock and ready to ship, but only on a case-by-case review." So essentially if you have a pre order and want to cancel you may not receive funds unlit after the pre order is in stock, even then it's on a case by case basis.

Looking better, nice work

I'd try a different permanent marker or a fabric dye just applied with a brush to the area need. You are only going to need to cover the areas which will be seen, around knees, thigh tops and so on so there won't be a lot that needs covering

Normally we try to add larger cover strips to the rear as they are not seen as much by the public but if you do need to add larger to the front there shouldn't be an issue going 1" or 1.5"

188 Guide Dogs WA Street Appeal 2019

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper, good luck and can't wait to see photos of your first troop

Nice work, came out a treat, I use a similar method for making 3 or 5 button ab plates.

I'm not missing your point at all but OT TK has gone under some changes over the years, as more references had become available changes had been made BUT some are still there from day one, a lot of information wasn't as easily available way back then BUT with the internet and social media also higher res images being released many more recent CRL's have been more screen accurate as we see with most costumes from TFA and TLJ they are based on what we know and screen images as I've said, the costumes and CRL's have become a lot more accurate compared to 20 years ago so there really isn't a comparison. If A New Hope came out now I can definitely tell you the CRL would be a lot different to what we see now.

Depends on how long the lines are but I covered some logos with Tshirt transfer paper before, just coloured black before printing, allowed to dry then ironed on worked great. Some markers are permanent and won't wash out as quickly as others so there may be other options out there too. You could also use a dye, just brush it on the lines and allow to dry before washing.

Well all I can say is there are a lot of approved FOTK's out there, all had to fill, sand and paint their armor, no matter what their abilities all are painted, the CRL's won't change to suit a manufacturers product no matter how many are out there, CRL's are based off screen references. There are other options to paint, ABS paste can be applied, sanded and polished to give the look of seamless, so that's an option. I've seen some have success with using white silicon too.

The undersuit will stop you getting armor bites (pinching) but as mentioned won't make a lot of difference. Off to a good start, looking forward to the progress

They are not the best and you will be surprised the more research you do the more you will notice, anyone with an OT TK can't not look at A New Hope without noticing a lot of the armor issues in that movie, it's the same for TFA and TLJ as well as Disney troopers You may notice though they try to keep the troopers with a uniformed size and height, makes swapping out pieces a lot easier if you are all one generic size

There are no seams on screen version so no seams in the CRL's, the costume is based of screen references not what is best for wearing or comfort or the way a manufacturer makes them. There are other sections which will need to be glued and filled also which I've gone in to in this thread like the sides of the ab section. If you join and add support under the chest/yoke shoulder section this with reducing cracking, a lot was not known before the alpha kits had been built and what sections would get stressed but by time we beta's started assembly we added supports. Yes I still have a couple of cracks but that's from constantly flexing open to get your arms in, cracks can form in any armor even OT TK's

You may be over engineering what you have, I've cut my armor to the minimal trim lines and I have loose sections, seems we have a similar frame, I have some foam in the forearms and biceps to stop them rotating and flapping, and foam behind my ab which helps keep the ab and chest align much better.

Great work, can't quite see the Hovi tips but they should be white inside with a white rim

As already mentioned in this thread a lot of the helmets had the trim cut straight on the end as you can see in these references so either is acceptable

If you do shorten your cod the chances are your not going to be able to trim very much out before it's going to look weird under the belt, the V section wouldn't be very wide. Some with issues in height have taken some material off their chest and back sections, here are a few builds which may help. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ But while doing a quick search I also found Sha Sha's build, she did actually cut her cod so you may get away with it. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

Confirming it's not an alpha/beta kit, the one shown has updated pieces that where definitely not in the early sets. Remember not everyone who has purchased are members, many are from the public, some may also be recruits who have not yet joined some of the FB groups or FISD. Just because they're not posted on FB doesn't mean there aren't more out there. There seems no rules with Anovos with shipping, I ordered my beta then a friend I had told about the beta run ordered his a few weeks later, months went by and he received his kit while mine took another 3 weeks I asked why and never got a clear answer only "it's how it left the shipping/sorting facility"

I wouldn't say there has been naysayers dead set against it, people here offer advise on what we know and to date there aren't very many happy people who have 3D printed armor By all means print away and I hope it works out for you but for the majority of costumers who want a durable kit that needs little prep work, which can be 501st approved and trooped in without worry of failing I'll always advise plastic or fibreglass, whether 3D printing is the future or not.

I'm not an expert but I do have an beta Anovos kit, I've not had one of the new kits in my hands yet to check the differences but if Anovos are shipping these kits as TLJ then I'd gather that is what they would be easier to be approved as. At the moment there aren't many difference in the CRL's between TFA and TLJ, helmet being the obvious main difference, with both CRL's it's acceptable to use the TFA cod piece, but that being said this may change, when the CRL's had been made there wasn't an armor maker offering a TLJ cod but for higher levels a TLJ version was needed so some made their own as did I. So could you use a TLJ cod for TFA?, perhaps I don't think many GML's would pick that but I would suggest it would be noticed for higher level clearance. If you really want to get picky there are quite a few minor differences in the versions so it just depends on what will be reviewed and changed in the future, CRL's are on this years calendar for a review so I'd keep an eye on the boards as well as check the CRL's while building

Hello and welcome aboard. KB did have a change in location at one stage but I'm pretty sure he's back up and running (although I'm not frequent on FB). Good luck and looking forward to the progress.

Nice work, a couple of extra photos the DO's like are: Inside and outside close up rivets thigh ammo strip Sides and front close up sniper plate attachment. Close up of the teeth area, be aware paint shouldn't leave the teeth and be on the gums. Close up of the side ab/back rivets. A couple of accuracy adjustments: Hovi/mic tips mesh on Anovos helmets are too fine Larger Ab plate could be trimmed a little more and lose the rounded edges of the smaller plate Just a note on your blaster, T tracks and main handle shouldn't have weathering, these where plastic and painted either gloss or satin black. Good luck with approval

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Managed to find some pretty nice ones on eBay when I was building a couple of blasters, think they where $8