rhapsodyred99

when I worked on my animated clone I used extra thick CA glue (so it would't run) and kicker. I also used 3M Acrylwhite Glazing putty to fill cracks. I was afraid to use the trusty e6000 for the seam glue as its flexible and I was afraid that would lead to cracks. The CA held fine, and the extra thick stuff helped fill the small seams. The larger seams I used the glazing putty on. It does nto need to be mixed, dries fairly quickly sands easily, takes paint very well, and I was very happy with it through multiple troops. I had planned to take the same route when I start building my TFA.

Vader fits. I use the Stanley box but it's near Identical.

Heck with the tks. How about those flame troopers and mini gun hwt??? Those are the ones I hope someone gets on quick!

hey heh Donald made it to Celebration! -----------------

I may need to check into this. My issue with the acustic mikes are that they start out working great, but after a few hours under my lid they stop. I find its because I apparently have very moist breath that messes up the sound transmission as the moisture builds up. In helmet I basically breath through my mouth alot for some reason. I feel im not getting enough air through my nose, which means moist breath hits the foam and starts condensing. I may seriously look into this through mike option. I like the acoustic sound better based on the vid, but if its only going to work a short time the throat mike may trump it.

I'm sure it will be like clones. We see them, I even have one, but you still see plenty of ANH stunts at all events.

Completely a motorcycle lid... Or tron without the lights.

Grats brother!

Awesome work kev!

Excellent, now we need legacy armor for the guys as well

Now who's working on the legacy lid?

too funny! I love the elbows! they must think they are clones! My wife just got back from Vegas and had a horrendous Darth Vader she snapped a pic of to rile me up since she knows the pains I take with my costumes.

Non acrylic capped TM.

I have both an RS suit and a TM suit. I prefer the TM for all the reasons posted (especially the shins) but I do use an RS ABS lid for my ESB Tk on a TM suit I also Use an RS khaki fishpond lid on my ANH Stunt TM Suit. I do use a TM helmet for my Hero version.. My RS I made into a sandy, which I think helps offset some of the grumps I have with the suit itself. If it were up to me to buy another TK, I would buy a TM and with an RS Lid again. Not that TM's lids are not great, but its hard to knock the honest to god molded from the real helmet deal RS has going on. The problem with the suit is that it was a pieced together incorrectly assembled suit to begin with, and IMHO what they have done to 'correct" the suit is not all that grand when compared to the great work TM dis on his suit.

I prefer my TM to my RS. If you can get a TM do so.

Looks good, another inch of padding at the top will allow more movement, but plenty of film TDs had the helmets on the chest too.

RS is made from 1.5 mm ABS which is prop accurate. All helmets are thin around the mic tips. I know from experience you will feel you have to treat it like glass, but pretty soon you realize the thin stuff is amazing and flexible and works great. My TD is an RS and it is thin, but that is prop accurate and it is surprisingly comfortable because of it (compared to my FX, or 2mmm CFO, or the 2-3mm Clone) My TM is also 1.5 mm and I love the light, flexible nature of it. You are not supposed to be doing accrobatics in it

The differences in ESB vs ANH are: Handguards are plastic clamshells not latex flat plates the holster is on the right and is on the belt with loops not rivets The Helmet has a black painted frown, and the tears and tube stripes are decals or stickers. Thats pretty much it, you can get into more hitpicky things like silk glove liners and sewn on handguards but basically the above list handles ESB. That being said nearly all armor makers offer clamshell handguards. TM, and RS both do, and I am fairly sure most others do as well. The armor for ANH and ESB are the same. The belt is the same, you just have to buy a looped ESB holster instead of a holster you rivet on like in ANH. As far as the lid, the basic construction is the same so ANH helmets and ESB helmets are Identical, its just the finishing that differs. you would paint the frown black, and see if the armor maker (again TM and RS do) has stickers. You can also go to trooperbay and get ESB style stickers for most helmets. I use my ANH armor as ESB armor, I just switch lids, gloves/handguard, and belts.

If you gave paul the right measurements, and you are not over large in the waist you should have zero issues getting EIB out of the box, however if your waist is over 34 inches or so, you better ask him for some spare ABS for side shims.

First thing I thought when I saw the SWR Tks "at least now all those folks with FX lids can say they are SWR Tks..."

Hey all I am headed to New York and was wondering if some folks might point me in the direction of a few shops that may still have stock of the museum replicas costumes. Thanks!

You will always run into those Idealized vs Prop Replica Types. It is hard sometimes to balance as sometimes Prop Replica, does not work so well for trooping/general public. I have a SWAT level sandy that I tried very very hard to replicate everything I could to make him seem like he stepped off the set, which works for a sandy because he is supposed to be banged up, dirty and worn out. My TM suit that goes for ANH Stunt, Hero, and ESB, also uses original strapping, because as TM says, it DOES work great for trooping, but that being said It is assembled with care and looks more "finished" than perhaps most of the screen used suits. Now I am letting it get natural wear and tear from blaster marks scuffs etc, and I do have an RS fishpond lid with some chips, and chipped Latex Handguards I use for Stunt, because I like to look like I have seen some action yeah? you know how I got this? That's right. Punching Rebels. In. The. Face. and this? This I got from Head buttin a Wookie! In. The. Chest. (hey they are too tall to hit em in their nasty hairy mugs!) I ain't no wet behind the ears shiney, I work for a lIvin' boy. Kickin Rebel Butt is my Biznas. And. Biznas. Is. GOOD!

oh well if wea re just talking assemble, then I am for a Screen acurate TK armor, assembled with care, and with the normal wear and tear of use to add realism. I would never use gaffer tape or purposely assemble my TK to look hurredly tossed together. I have an RS fishpond lid, but the wear is minimal and more reminicent of battle damage than a 40 year old found in some guys basement prop replica. So Idealized Screen Accurate

No mixing is not taboo. The TM abs is not 100% the same color as RS abs but its not a big difference as you can see in the con photo with an RS abs lid and a TM suit.

Both actually. When I first started I wanted a super white, but then I started realizing that real TKS were not gloss white. I now prefer a more prop accurate non gloss abs (abs is still shiny, just not glossy). I also like being able to repair. Honestly my TM ABS has not cracked once in the 4 or 5 times Iv'e trooped in it, so I do not think its going to be a big issue, its just nice to have the option of an easy repair. My PVC Chest has actually cracked a a bit but that was my fault not ear and tear. The rest of the PVC suit is super durable. I just prefer prop replica to Idealized. and a super bright white PVC suit is not as Prop replica ish as the ABS. You are not going to go wrong with either plastic choice. You might also want to talk to Troopermaster about his armor. His does not suffer from the realy fat shin syndrome that RS has due to the suit they molded having repeat parts instead of the correctly assembled shins. RS shins had all outer (or inner iI forget) shin parts glued together in their armor as opposed to a correctly assembled inner shin matched to an outer shin on each leg. TM suit: See how the shins actually contour to the right shape of the leg as opposed to the RS in my Post above?