FunkyTrigger

Hi Dennis Thanks for posting up more pics. All of the required pictures should be in this thread, so please don't be offended at being asked to produce them. The forearm pic shows no cover strip, probably as it is a WIP pic. I wanted to see the outside facing rivet heads on your holster to belt connection, not the inside, so sorry for the confusion. And finally, I was referring the the two rivet heads that are at the top of your AB plate, located next to and above your side AB rivets. If I had photoshop on my mobile phone, I would draw a circle, but I am hoping that my description is enough to guide you, however my question about these rivets are diverted to the DO or a bars and bolts expert as I am not familiar with them being positioned on the outside face. I thought that the bars and bolts mounts were on the return edge only, hence my question, and hence my learning.

I am glad you asked and shared. It would have been fantastic, if you had discovered another boot supplier

I am not a bars n bolts expert, And therefore the following question is asked for my continued learning experience, The D.O. is currently "hot" on rivet shapes and sizes and the outside look of the armour, Can you please explain the rivet heads showing (top left) next to the 6 AB rivets please? Thank you

Hi Dennis, Congratulations on passing your EIB today. Your hero build is very good, and I learnt something new today regarding your holster thigh strap. That said, you are missing a few standard required pictures for your Centurion application. I am sure that you have your no return edge forearms covered, but these need to be shown. Your thigh ammo pack mounting also needs to be shown. I haven't compiled a full missing list, but these will get you started. Good luck with your application. Ps. If you don't mind, can we see a close up of where the holster is connected to your canvas belt?

The UK Garrison would not clear that boot due to the additional stitching towards the front, and the non standard stitching to the side. I guess that you would have to run it past your local GML for basic clearance. I am sure that this boot would hinder your progress to EIB and Centurion.

This indeed has been a great build thread.

Congrats trooper.

Your Armour looks good and on you, fits well. There is a nice attention to detail on all components. The only critism from me, would be your straight on picture with your helmet. The shoulder bell gaps. Do you have an issue with them staying in the right place? Good luck with your application.

Is the white strap on your left thigh for your holster ?

Oh well. Two totally different suggestions. Both backed up with facts. Both will work, The choice is yours and shows what flexibility and choices you have when you are form fitting your closed Armour parts to fit you and be comfortable.

This thread has diagrams and more info on arm strapping. Good luck. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/21610-Shoulder-Bell-Rotation-Issue

TK-8461 You are definitely on the right track working through the required changes for the Centurion award. These actions are commendable. When you re-submit your pictures, can you please ask the photographer to tell you if your forearms are not sitting correctly. I personally feel they look too big. This is backed up by the fact that you have a lot of padding foam in there to fit them round your arm. I am not going to Suggest that you have to split and reform them to be closer to your arm shape, but this is what I am going to suggest. Try and make good with what you have. The first frontal picture doesn't show both forearms in the same rotated position. The gap between your elbows looks quite large and that your forearms appear to be resting on your hands. How you choose to apply the position of your forearms will be your personal choice. I chosen to have popper connection elastics connecting my biceps to shoulder bell, and a connection elastic from the bicep to the forearm. I have measured where I wanted the bicep to sit, and that was just above my elbow, and not resting on my elbow. I then wanted my forearm to stay positioned closer to my elbow. This is why a connection elastic is there. The poppered connection elastics are not a requirement. In fact they are not part of the original film strapping. They are merely a field trooping modification to help keep Armour in place and to help stop the components rotating, and to keep them together. Please don't be offended by my suggestion. Please don't feel that I am contributing in moving your centurion goal posts further away. It is hard for people to people to stick their necks out and comment on other people's hard work. This is a case of Troopers helping other troopers.

I would trim at the hand end, <br />I think that this was,your picture A, <br />from your choice between the two pics where you showed the overlap at the hand end.<br /><br />The reasoning behind this suggestion is...<br />because at this end, you are required to have no return edge. <br />This end in effect can quite simply be a straight chopped off cut.

Hi Moritz Sorry if we came across in a non positive manner. You can be assured that we are actually trying to encourage you. In answer to one of your questions, you can either add frown mesh to your helmet teeth or wear a balaclava. "When you wear the Stormtrooper, you become the Stormtrooper" Stay in character, Hiding your eyes, and flesh through the mesh, removes the human element.

Sorry, no. They have cornered the market well there. Your alternative would be to get the correct style Chelsea / jodhpur boots and dye them white. This is easy to do, and completely how the original film boots became white. Caboots, a white alternative boot, I can't recommend

Hi Moritz, You are close and on the right track, you have done a good job of forming your armour to suit your frame, but there are some unfinished items to attend to. You are going to loose your drop boxes when you troop if they are just gaffa taped on. What is the gaffa tape and additional elastics doing on your biceps? There are threads on how to strap your arms. Your face can be seen through your helmet teeth. Not having a holster is making your armour look incomplete. You say you have TK boots, or order, this will be best as your current ones are not the correct type. Your chosen method to mount the snaps to support your AB belt is unusual but will not be seen behind your belt. You could have put the snaps straight through the AB plate rather than gluing then to tab. You have given your height at 1.72, approx 5'8" I don't know why your chest plate is overlapping your AB buttons so much, but this is not a clearance issue. I am sure that you will have these issues attended to in no time. Good luck trooper.

I have to re type my comments Some of them went missing.

Don't think of your holster as a cheap un important item on the side. A good leather holster is a beautiful part of your costume and functional. I regularly holster and de holster my blaster during troops for various reasons and goings on. The difference has only got to be around $20 over there. My advice is either make your own from the real leather scraps, or save up and order it next week.

There was no easy way to break this news

Here are 4 easy to correct niglies 1. Left shin not closed properly at bottom. 2. AB belt a touch low. It should be just below your AB buttons. 3. Shorten left shoulder bell elastic at the top to bring it closer to your chest plate. 4. Your thigh ammo pack appears to be twisted awkwardly. Can you link your pictures so that they appear in your thread? For clearance pics and to help other people see your pics easier, it's better that way. Keep on trooping and good luck

Your older ANH build thread was showing up fine. Hopefully a moderator can join your two build threads back together.

In it's holster. In a safe place.

Have you considered upgrading to the Flexi Hand-guards?? Much better

I wouldn't cut right up to the final cut lines until the closed Armour parts have been joined. Each half of a closed Armour part will marry up to the other half at different positions for different people as you form it to match your body size. For example if you are shimming to Make a part bigger, or cutting out to make it slimmer. Once the internal diameters have been measured to match your body size then glued and formed, I would consider the final trim and line so that they can then flow into each other. You can remove plastic but not add it later, when you find the parts don't match up.

Hi Eric. It's not just off centre. It gets even simpler. If you imagine that you are wearing the Armour components, you will find that the snap positioning is where you can easily reach with your thumb and forefinger.