Smitty

Krylon Fusion sucks. Rusto all the way Speaking of mixing brands...Dont mix brands on primers. Monday I stripped down my old TE2 and prepped it for a total repaint. I used Color place grey primer and ran out half way thru and finished up with a different brand of gray primer. In places where the 2 brands overlapped it has a sort of reptile skin going. Looks a little dry and cracked like sun baked mud. So then like an idiot I gave it a gloss white coat, hoping for the best. Now I'm waiting 2 weeks for it to cure so i can sand out the bad areas and prime it again.

This was a great time! I never miss a chance to troop this venue~!

I get the same message when I try to view my pics from work. I use fileden for my hosting. Ive been using it for several years now. There's no malware on the site but for some reason it triggers that message on some systems

A Run? Undecided at this point. I absolutely have to get a welder for my home shop. I can't do a run from my shop at work. We are getting too regulated at work so Work like this I'd have to do at home. Jesse, you were pretty much my inspiration to get started. I had been toying with the idea of ordering an APEX kit and when I saw your build I ordered a kit right away. I have a real hengstler Eagle Counter in my possession but it belongs to my friend Jeremy that owns the first blaster I ever built CS-1. He wants me to put it on that. I gotta try to talk him out of that. Mark, the back end of the blaster was the most stressfull. I examined 3 different ways of mating the back portion to my tube and decided that just a straight perpendicular cross section cut on both parts would be the easiest and most structurally sound. Now the imortant part is measurement so that your stock will lock in the deployed position. I kept test fitting all the parts and trimming a millimeter edge off the reciever. Wash, Rinse, repeat until you think youve got it. Mate up the two parts and use a welder to lightly tack it in 3 places around the tube. This will hold it together for a gentle test run of the stock. If it does not work no big deal. You just grind off the tacks and use a cutter wheel to separate the rest of the tacks. A little dremel clean up in those 3 spots and you're ready to try it again. Trim off another millimeter and re tack it again for another test run. Now its important to note that when mating the two parts you are forced to line up your cocking slots. For some reason my templates from BBC (the 1.5 inch plans) didnt match up perfectly resulting my rear sight and butt cap slightly twisted from the rest of the reciever. Once the scope's on there it will be unnoticeable. But anyway, once you are comfortable that your stock deploys and collapses the way you like run your bead around the reciever. You can clean up all your beads with a fine grit flapper wheel and this wonderful stuff I found. Its a metallic bondo called plastic metal. It was hanging on a peg right beside the red tube of bondo everyone uses on helmets. You can also use a dremel to mill out the grooves on the reciever where the butt cap attaches so that your buttcap travels about 2 millimeters further back. This will help out ALOT if your stock locking alignment isn't perfect.

This all started when I found a 38mm steel pipe. I got my hands on a destroyed British Sterling SMG and rebuilt it substituting the steel pipe for the destroyed reciever. I maintained the deactivation by sealing off the magazine from the chamber with a steel wall so nothing in the magazine can make it to the chamber and firing pin has been removed. The rest of it is fully funtional. You can swap mags, deploy the stock, Select Safe/Semi/Full automatic, it clicks when you pull the trigger. You can cycle the action and yes it's fully field strippable. All mig welded joints, all steel contruction and weighs a flippin ton! I have an authentic M39 scope to crown it ALL NEW PICS ADDED AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE!!! DEMO VIDEO ADDED ALSO!!!!

Thats good news. I still have mine but the gold has faded really bad and its practically all silver now It was a first run.

Bounty Hunter here. I'd be smuggler all the way if it was on the list.

It all depends on the type of ABS your armor is made from. My GF armor is over 10 years old and is still pristine white. My TE2 helmet is painted with Rustoleum and has yellowed quite a bit over time. My friend has ABS armor from another vendor and its a little over a year old and it has already begin to yellow.

I have been hearing the same thing. Apparently its is move by the Department of Homeland security who owns the TSA by the way. TSA and DHS have been guilty of government over reach in the past few years all in the name of protecting US citizens from terrorism. I could rant for hours about the DHS and TSA gestapos but I won't. Anybody that wants to look deeper into these sort of things should check out Alex Jones at Prisonplanet and Infowars. Also this new law only applies to air mail. Surface mail (by ship) does not have this restriction but you are looking at a much longer shipping time.

Great looking build! The rustoleum definitely explains the gloss! All my blasters get the 97 cent WalMart Colorplace Flat black spray can. I;m gonna use the Wal Mart gloss white on my next helmet build just to see how it turns out.

Welcome back Terry! definitely talk to ATA about his new ABS armor.

Erv thats awesome!!!! I absolutely love the screen and the predator laser is the cherrie on the cake! You know I had to edit and fawn over this thing some more. Dude its like you thought of everything! I mean really what more could an E-11 possibly do? It displays beautifully and gets my vote for coolest toy on the planet.

I found some good looking sunglasses replicas for $35 on ebay. Feedback is only a (1) Cant vouch for them. http://cgi.ebay.com/Visitor-Sunglasses-Replicas-Original-V-/280614851764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4155f2d4b4 Both he and Captain America are from Las Vegas Ahhh the perils of Ebay

This is awesome news bro! Will this be offered in black ABS as well?

If your mind is made up for TE or ATA, then get the ATA. TE is untrustworthy. I had a couple of test pull ATA buckets when they first came out and was very pleased with the quality. I must say though that my new favorite bucket is the CAP-W.

There's a guy on ebay that sells em. His name is something along the lines of Captain America. I've heard they are pretty close. They look good to me but Im no expert. I want to turn my girlfriend into Jane Badder (The original Diana) for dragoncon this year, so I've been dabbling myself If you cant find a helmet try for the glasses for a cheap alternative. I think the originals were S1000's by Papillion. You can find some pretty close knockoffs out there.

I had my pic taken with her at DragonCon a few years ago in her Slave Leia costume. Needless to say she is smokin' hot!

Ive seen that first helmet pictured on several ebay auctions....the exact same pictures. Usually a red flag. The second helmet by jedi robe is a poorly recast SDS piece of junk. You might want to get in on the CAP-W helmet run by Scootch right here at the FISD. You'll be much happier with your purchase.

Gorgeous blaster! Just think how popular the ROTJ theme is gonna be in 2013!

Here it is: http://www.facebook....nalStormtrooper More specifically look at the discussion regarding a red clay sculpt.

AA is a liar, plain and simple. For a real good laugh, track down AA's facebook. He's defending his lies in one of his blogs and a couple of familiar faces are busting his chops real good. Once or twice during the read you can almost see AA sitting in front of his computer with a deer in the head lights look on his Chevy Chase.

Very True

Sounds like a great screen cast ABS option for those of us in the USA. What guage ABS you plan on using? 80?

Yep coiled wire is a snap to make. I use about 14 or 16 guage stranded wire and just wrap it around a screwdriver shank. 2 part 5 minute epoxy from Loctite or Devcon works for EVERYTHING. A cool trick for exposing silver under black is like this: Paint it silver let it fully cure for a week. Anywhere you want exposed silver "paint" that area with mustard. Spray it black let it dry for a day when you wash away the mustard, your silver will be exposed

I saw someone mentioned the number 5 shade. In my experience number 5 has been too dark. Its great on a sunny day but has a tendency to leave you blind in places that are not well lit. Number 3 hides your eyes very well and wont blind you in darker areas.