RogueTrooper

Hi Elwyn! I see that this is your first post on the FISD, I just want to say welcome aboard! Do just like Graham said above, let the plactic completely cure/dry and wet sand with either 2000 to 3000 grit Wet or Dry sandpaper. BTW, 2000 to 3000 Wet or Dry grit is also used for polishing porcelain and natural stones counter tops. You can purchase the higher grit of wet or dry sandpaper at pro paint shops. Just google for local pro paint stores in your area. I would suggest doing the wet sanding process. The process of wet sanding is to help keep the material that you are sanding clean of debris, by rinsing the build up of sanding dust from the sandpaper and surface. Sanding dust can cause uneven sanding and possibly make scrapes in the surface. So by dipping your sandpaper in a large bowl of clear clean water several times throughout the sanding process will clean the sand paper. Also rinse the surface periodically to keep sanding debris off of it. If the bowl of water starts looking murky, dump and replace with fresh, clean water. You can also find plastic rubbing compounds to bring the luster back. I would suggest the Novus Plastic Polish Kit, as well. ---------

No one in the Midsouth Garrison comes to mind... I just did a FISD members search and 11 members of the Midsouth Garrison popped up. All Midsouth members on the FISD Out of the 11 on the FISD, only two say they are in Tennessee ( 124-KT/Jason TK1532, and MxPxRobbie/ Robbie CT8231) Link to FISD members of the Midsouth Garrison in Tennessee I also looked at the Midsouth Garrison active members list. They say the have 138 right now. 124-KT/Jason looks to be in-active. I would say for the quickest response from MSG members is to jump on the Midsouth Garrison's forum and ask them there. Here's the link: http://midsouthgarrison.com/members/ As you can see from the map below, there is a big cluster of members in and around Nashville, and there are 3 MSG members close to Memphis. William R. Alexander TK2417 Erik J. Jensen TK4892 Kell SL9997

Well a few days ago, I hit my 2000th post and my rank changed to a 6 star General, but I thought it was a little too gaudy, so I took one star away. LOL

After seeing Karin/Sonnenscheins' riveting tutorial on: -------------I was inspired to post a great "HOW TO" So here is a video tutorial on "How To Tie Your Shoes".... *Warning* Please note, the people in the videos are experts. Do not attempt this without proper training. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKWL1md7Dv4

WOW!!! and I thought that the microwave was only for drying your cat or dog.... who woulda thunk.

Check out the ATA ABS kits!

Hey Eric glad to see ya pop back on the FISD! CONGRATZ! to you and your Bride to be!!!!! I hope you both will have a long and wonderful life together! No make that order 67

Another idea that I thought of that may help people that are new to building. The FISD has all this great information, like tutorials, how tos, but it is only in web form. Is it possible to make at least the tutorials and how tos in a PDF format so if the person that is working on something can have it in hand as a hard copy, rather than having to go back and forth to their computer and maybe loosing their place where they were in the information of the tutorial or how to. It is kind of like Map Questing directions and then be able to print them out. Just a thought.

Just like Panda said above, if you need advice on where to trim/cut, just post pix of the armor with pencil lines where you think you need to cut/trim BEFORE doing any cutting/trimming. Here is a tip: Print out a hard copy of which ever tutorial, build thread, and pix that you want to use to help you with your build. Break each section down, like an instructional manual (Step 1, Step 2, Step 3, etc.) Look one section over a couple of times before actually attempting to do anything to those specific parts. Only look at and work on one part at a time. This will keep you from being overwhelmed and becoming frustrated with your project. #1 Shoulder Bells: #2. Biceps: #3. Forearms: So forth and so on..... We are here if you need help. One thing, and this is very important..to have fun!!

Looks like you are set for go.....Have fun man!!!... I am ready to watch

Have a look at the lid now Mr. Set for Stun!

I thought your name is Mr. Set For Stun, not Stephen. Actually my middle name is Stephen/Steve, since the lid has my name in it, I claim it first. I have been trying to tell LFL for years that it was my lid, and asked them, can't you see my name in it? The only thing that I have gotten back from them are some letters that said "Cease and Desist". Its got too many big fancy words for me to worry about, so I just keep contacting them everyday in plain english telling them I want my helmet, don't you undestand? Hopefully one day they will get the message.

Answer to Q1: Very common for troopers to split the crotch/cod area from the AB area. Also detaching (un-snap) the butt plate for more compfortable when sitting or using the men's room. Answer to Q2: It maybe the way you are wearing it or it could be that the area was not trimmed properly. If you can post a close up pic of that section of armor, we can diagnose if it needs trimming or not or if it is just the way you are wearing it.

Correct. Plus, the ANH TDs (Sandtroopers) are also hand painted details.

I guess you now know why Luke Skywalker say, "I can't see a thing in this helmet" But, actually as you can see the original lids did had a lot of padding to them... Just the one piece of the foam padding (like for seat cushions) cut in a rough four leaf pattern.

Your lid looks great, but the tube stripes don't have enough curve like you said. The length of them, to help you out, should be 5/8" or 16mm long, by about 1/8" or 3mm wide. Here is a paint chart for the proper colors and what paint you can buy in two different brands; Humbrol or Testors: BTW, are you doing a Sandtrooper?

Take your time with your mods, we are in no rush to see any results.. Eagerness is the quicker way for a build or mod to turn to the darkside. Twisted and evil it can get, so take your time.... BTW, be careful when using the heat gun. If you have question or need advice, just post.

Billy (Billhag) started a topic along the same lines as this. Here is the link:------ BTW, the people who wore the TK armor in the OT movies had to turn their head sideways or turn the helmet sideways. Take a look at the 1978 "Making of Star Wars" at 5:56 minute mark you will see one of the TK lids being put on: Also, watch Luke and Han when they take off and put on the Stormtrooper helmets, they do the twist/turn deal as well.

If you are asking what would I do? I say, do the hand paint details, instead of sticker/decals. If you are worried about the hand painting the detail not being perfect, don't sweat about it. The hand painted details on the original ANH lids were far from perfect. But it is up to the individual what they want to do with there build. But, just take a look at this link and you will see what I am talking about: http://starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm Below are a couple of reference comparison collages of original hand painted ANH TKs and TDs to help you:

Billy!! I hate to tell ya mate, but you got your upside down ... You don't have 666 but you got 999.... Just kidding I had to do it...

Paul beat me to it....

I like Paul/TM's idea about shimming the bottom of the kidney plate to give you a little bit more height. Here is another similar idea. Mark the top and bottom edges of where your belt goes around the kidney plate. Then find the center of the two marks and make a line all the way around the kidney plate. Then cut the line that is center of where you belt goes around the kidney plate. For making the shim to give you extra height to the kidney plate, you can either use one of two things. Purchase a sheet of sturdy HIPS, or go to you Home Improvement or hardware store and purchase the plastic "For Sale by Owner" sign. The plastic "For Sale By Owner" signs are made of HIPS as well. Then cut the shim to the width and length that you need to make the shim. Glue and clamp the shim to the inside of the kidney plate. Once the glue is dried, you can then take model putty and fill in and blend the outside of the kidney plate where the shim is. Then sand, prime and paint the whole thing. If you use the "For Sale Owner" sign, turn the printed side to the inside. For me, this way leaves the return edge on the kidney plate like it was originally formed and your belt will still hide any little imperfections that you may have with the shim.

To my knowledge, to this point there hasn't been a good picture showing (SA) if the sight glass was painted solid or if you are still able to see the counters. I am taking a stab at this and saying since this was a very quickly put together prop, they probably painted the whole Hengstler and didn't worry about if you could see through to the counter/numbers. Here is a suggestion, a lot of the 501st members dial the counter to their TK, TD, etc. number like the pic below of Ward/TK2187/TD2187 Hengstler. So you could do that when you get your number. But it is all up to the individual as to how they want to do it.

BTW, 3/32" equals 0.0938 which is just a little over .090

You said .80, dont you mean, .080. .80 equals 4/5" .080 equals 5/64" Hope it helps.