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Hey Mike, this is Greg. Yeah I’m happy to share my mods with anyone that has purchased Nico’s original files. Feel free to DM me with some sort of proof of purchase and I can get you the files Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

started to work on the helmet some. I'm not happy with how it printed, so I reached out to @TKModder421 to see about getting his modified files for the Nico R1TK helmet. He sent them on to me, so I'll start printing those today. I've sent some of the smaller bits (ears, ear caps, traps and tears) to one of my friend for resin printing. I hope that they will turn out as well as Greg's pictures did on his post. Here is what I was working, with. I'll hold on to it to practice finishing work on.

Oh shoot, I saw that post before and totally forgot about it!

This is my trick for stubborn snap posts A block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help when sanding parts to get straight lines/cuts.

Yeah, the mods look awesome. Maybe someday I’ll build one. And make this current one a Mimban for Display. Will Greg share with anyone that has purchased Nico’s files? Or? I’m pretty green in the FISD community, so I don’t know many people. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep you found it. Greg did some amazing updates, and I can't wait to get these printed, and see how it compares to what I have. The alignment pegs alone will be worth the extra print time IMHO.

So the journey started back in December, now completed this week. Below are the images of the final build along with individual parts in high definition so you can capture the details. In the next threads below, I will explain how I did end up with this final result. I will also try to share the tips and tricks for you guys to make your life easier. I based all the design and parts on the reference document I have put together (you can find it in the reference section in my post). Here's the build: Boots from Crowprops Leather gloves from Crowprops Abs section made out of urethane foam rubber molded, per screen reference Suit from Keeptrooping a good portion of the 3D models are from Big Fred Customs who did an amazing job already (I did modify almost all of them for screen accuracy and trooping) Several parts modeled by me (single piece Shin/spat, abs mold, dart launcher and greeblies on gauntlets, top box on chest plate, jetpack, jetpack attachment to the back plate, cod piece, etc) Soft goods made by my girlfriend (MW11271)- belt and holster, velcros, harness,...!) I will post the build process of these parts in the following threads. I will show how everything was printed/ prepared, painted, assembled. I will make the models available when possible (only the parts 100% designed by me, for the modified parts, I will sync with Big Fred to see how they could be shared. Goal is to provide you info on how to build a suit that is designed by a guy who knows the pain of wearing the armor (my Sithtrooper is a tuff one to troop... Front top to bottom:

77) 25/04/2024 - HOTTOYS Darkside of the Force Event Press & Media Tour @ CityPlaza

I Believe while they are making their latest run the web site won't let you order anything until the next run opens. I could be wrong but I think that's how it worked with me.

Mighty impressive numbers you have here, congratulations on hitting 125!!! New badge available!

Hey @TKModder421, I resent the DM and shot you an email on your FISD listed email address.

I looked into the garder system for the thighs, but decided to just add a loop of elastic, snapped to the inside of the thighs. I use a 1" black leather belt to hold them up and have never had any issues with them.

Thanks! Since my first go around was an ANH hero, I’m tempted to try a RO build but I know I would be in for quite a bit more work to get everything fitting and looking correctly. The strapping and garter is very attractive when completed though.

Troop 125: 4/23/2024 - Thomas Jefferson Middle School READCON - Vancouver, WA (292nd troop overall)

Keep Trooping does monthly runs. You likely could not get one in a couple weeks. If it was about 6 weeks away, it would be no problem. You're looking for model 421 on the keeptrooping website. They're just white chelsea boots though. If you can find a set locally, you can paint with any leather paint.

Yes I certainly do, however I have not decided which costume I want to build for approval.

And now we have the chest glued together. This took a while because I wanted to let each piece sit for at least 24 hours to fully cure. The Gaps in the armor are from slight misalignment. Some of the edges I had over done with the mouse sander. As previously stated, gaps are covered with Bondo. There seems to be very little that I cannot fix with Bondo and sanding thus far. Bondo to the rescue!Dont forget the edges, they will be visible! I used 400 grit sandpaper by hand. Finished the 1st round of Bondo, and I sprayed a layer of white paint so I can see just how visible these gaps are. After drying, more Bondo will be added to any remaining gaps in the part.

Hovi Mic Tips have been attached with E600. The Frown still needs to be painted Gray. and I have a few parts I need to address on the helmet. Some of the helmet has some black speckles on it from when I taped off and sprayed the brow black. There was slight leaking and I plan to fix this by blocking the black off with painters' tape and spraying the helmet with white once more. I also have a few parts that I need to re-sand to make it smoother as in the right lighting, I can still see some layer lines. Prior to this, I need to add some Bondo to fill in the small gaps where I glued together the 3 sections of the helmet from printing. Pictured Below: As per the last picture, the CRL States: "Any gap between the ears and the helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger." I am unsure if the current gap is too large, or if I will need to fill in the gap. and if so, must I fill this gap completely? Separate from the Helmet, I have printed the Butt-Plate, Cod Piece, Front and Back Belt, Thermal Detonator and the "O II" Details for the back plate. I mentioned earlier that I had a few rolls of small amounts of filament left over from larger prints, and I used those rolls for these pieces. A real Filament killer is how much support these parts need. To save filament I recommend either cutting your print to fit to your build plate in several pieces or orient your prints in a few directions to see what costs the least amount of filament. With that being said, it would also help you with cleaning your prints off afterwards if you make sure that any of the detailed parts do not have a lot of support around it. You can see my mistake in the 3rd picture below. First, I will say that I moved across the United States, and a few of my printed parts were damaged in the move. It's nothing that some superglue, Bondo, and paint can't fix though! I also ran into a slight issue with my printer once I unboxed it. I was in a new climate, and I do not have a heat shield to help retain the printer's temperature, so it loses a lot of heat in radiation. Secondly, as I was excited to start up my printer and get going on my TK, I did not ensure that the printer bed was leveled still! I have a few small scratches on my printed, but nothing that requires a new bed. Previously, I had been printing with just the bed and nothing on it to help with adhesion other than heat. Over time, my bed became dirty, and it needed cleaning. MAKE SURE YOUR PRINTBED IS CLEAN! I have sense put blue painters' tape on my printed to help with adhesion. I started up the 1st piece of the chest, and as it reached 90% completion, the PLA unstuck from the bed, and I had a big spaghetti mess of plastic when I checked after I ate my dinner. I restarted the print after leveling the bed. and again, around 90% it failed. But this time, I had a layer shift. You can see the layer shift at the very top of the chest piece. What happened was the adhesion to the build plate was not strong enough, and when the extruder moved back and forth, it pushed the print slightly to its side. From here, I used Elmers stick glue in combination with the blue painter's tape. I put a small bit under the tape, and an even layer on top of the tape to give the 1st layer something to really grab onto and stay. After this, the prints were coming out fine. In the last 2 weeks, I have printed the Main Chest, and Back plates. With support on still With Supports removed

Nice work, one thing that has been noticing is any pieces of armor that would open for dressing has the wraps wrapped each of the opening sides, not wrapped when dressed.

Well after hundreds of questions, I finally made a video to help explain how I built this first order armor. It’s an hour and twenty five minites long. Some of the information is for new potential builder. So everyone can fast forward to whatever pertains to them. So this is the build for The Last Jedi and The Rise of Skywalker variation. However it will touch a bit on The Force Awakens variation as well. This is the new Denuo Novo First Order Stormtrooper armor and helmets. there are a lot of exceptional builders here and build threads. This is not to override any of them, but rather a video aid to them.