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Please read the first post of this thread, you need to add a link to your legion membership profile, if you have any problems please send me a DM

Just had to chime in and I understand the complete overwhelming feeling of building not only a stormtrooper, but a stormtrooper to the highest degree of movie accuracy. I still remember opening my pile of armor and having no clue whatsoever of what I was looking at. Like others have said, I bookmarked dozens of build threads and crossed referenced everything I found with the CRL and just started little by little. I'd spend a few days researching biceps, then forearms, then Calves, thighs, boots, shoulders, back armor, front, belt, helmet, under suit, then fitting it all together. It was a TON of work but what got me through it all was I enjoyed it. I loved the challenge. The hardest part with any new skill is you're always going to start out as a total dummy. I felt the same with my other hobbies and careers in life. But once you start to learn how it all goes together it's a rewarding experience unlike anything else. If it helps I documented my personal build from knowing nothing to approval here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zDc4mtEDg0A_SfHcZXgXtmkzhSrBwaReTHWvdrcmMJg/edit?tab=t.0

https://www.denix.es/en/suggestions/ Denix offers an option for new product suggestions on their site. Maybe people would be interested in filling it with requests for Sterling SMG (L2A3 and C1)

1: Riddick (Rick) Fanny 2: TK-31022 3: FISD-Riddick322 4: Garrison Carida https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=30334&costumeID=452 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/56809-tk-31022-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-am-1088/#comment-794170 Armor: AM Helmet: AM Blaster: RS Prop Masters Social Media Consent: Yes

An iPhone speaker? In a blaster? Madness surely? No, and you can blame model train people. I just stole it from them. To an extent a speaker is a speaker is a speaker. There's a few things you need to know about. One is the impedance measured in ohms (Ω) and the other one is wattage. When you drive the speaker most drivers will state what impedance they need, and how many watts they put out. So something like "4-8Ω 3W", which is what's on the driver I am using. You'll also find that most of these will put out more power, and so be louder, at the lower impedance so you want to shoot for 4 if you can. For this one it's 3W at 4ohms and only 1.8 at 8ohms. So with that in mind on to the speaker. I am using a speaker for an iPhone 8 plus, but anything in the iPhone 5-8 range is all similar in size for a give phone class (e.g. normal vs the larger plus models). These came from AliExpress and are quite affordable, I got a 5 pack for £2.93 (with free postage as I made my order over £8 to qualify for choice). I went with the bigger speaker as I have room, and in general bigger is better with speakers. If space is limited get a non-plus speaker and it will be around half the size but volume will probably suffer. The specs on these online are sparse so first job is to work out what impedance these are. Using a multi meter over the 2 contacts (not photos sorry those pins are tiny and needs both hands) and I got about 8.7 ohms. This is DC resistance, which isn't the same as impedance but close enough. 8 ohm speakers. We don't know what wattage they will take but the train people seem to drive them hard, but if yours blows up then sorry no warrantee here. But we want 4ohms for maximum loud from our pew pew so how do we do that. We use 2 speakers, and wire them in parallel. Thanks to physics 2 speakers (resistors) in parallel make a smaller one. I won't cover the maths but simply if you have 2 of the same resistance in parallel you halve the resistance. So our 8 ohm speakers will be one 4 ohm one once wired up. Now on how to do it. If you've got a different speaker, you're on your own but basically join both of + sides together and both of the - sides together. None of of this is marked, so just join them "the same" on each. If you don't it will work but the speakers will be backwards to each other and sound awful and weak (they will be out of phase). This is how I did it: First the speakers have a few bits of plastic sticking out so those where trimmed with a pair of flush cutters. This isn't 100% needed but makes the package tidier. In order to parallel the speakers I decided to "piggy back them". So started by picking one speaker and bending out the contacts so they stuck straight out and so would fit over the side of the lower speaker. I then stacked the speakers. Due to the shape I sandwiched in a bit of 1.5mm HIPS I had lying around to pack out the air gap. With them carefully positioned so that the bent leg touched the unbent leg on the lower speaker, I applied a tiny bit of flux from a flux pen and tack soldered one side, then the same on the other side. Now things where stable I applied a little more solder to make the joint more solid. Care is needed here, these are small pins and you also don't want to cook the speaker by applying too much heat for too long. To attach the leads I pre soldered (aka tinned) both the wire and the connections again with some flux. This means the join is just a case of holding the wire in place and re-heating which makes the whole process far easier, but was still fiddly. I did add a touch more solder but this is probably unnecessary. At this point it's probably wise to test things. Hook it up make sure it works and sounds good. All okay, then you can move on. If not check things like you haven't created a short or melted the speaker by checking the resistance across the speaker if you have a meter, you're looking for something like 4-5 ohms of DC resistance. Things work but are fragile so lets try add some strength. First grab som 2-3mm heat shrink about 2-3cm long and slide it over the leads and slide it up close as you can whilst still being gentle. Ideally use a heat gun to shrink this in a more controlled manor than a lighter. Next we want to glue things in place to further strengthen things. You can use hot glue if you want, but this can be messy so I went with 8 year old E6000 as I had some left and seemed perfect for the job. This looks messy but the E6000 self levelled quickly and looked a lot cleaner. We want to glue the contacts, and also the wire it's self so hopefully there will be no strain on the contacts. Really you should now wait 12 hours or so for the glue to go off, but I am lazy and wanted it done. The final step in adding strength is more heat shrink. I want to say this was in the region of 13mm dia but may have been more like 15mm. I just grabbed some the right size from my stash. Cut a bit the right length to cover the whole assembly and shrink down again. And you're all done. Here is a comparison vs the typical 28mm speaker people generally use in blasters and lightsabres. It's a a little bigger but I think the shape means it will fit inside a blaster a bit easier and be less awkward to mount. It also sounds significantly nicer.

Very nice, hadn't thought of using a mobile speaker, now who's Iphone can I procure

Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery Looking forward to seeing your Centurion applications

Payment made, glad we can help.

This is the sort of thing we love on the forum. You've clearly spent a good amount of time gathering resources and documenting the build, having it on the forum makes it available to anyone who's working on a build.

Hi Mario, Here are the new photos. I didn't have my studio lighting kit handy this time, so I hope that the light is OK. Thanks again for your guidance and consideration! Hanson

Done! 1UY40723JC995072G

I found some more time! Glued the cover strips onto the front of the thighs.

I was able to sharpen the knee plate as suggested.

My pleasure, good luck with the researching

Seeing the issue would better help us to give some advice. At the end of the day though it is entirely up to your GML as they look after base approval, we only look after higher levels. You can also ask for help at MEPD Personally I have not seen anyone increase the backplate before, for larger troopers we advise looking at AM armor as it's the biggest out there.

You don't need to wait or look for an event specifically for recruiting new members. You can attend any event they are at that is open to the public and chat them up. A lot of the bigger ones will have people on hand specifically to chat with the public and they will be more than happy to talk with you. I can tell you from first hand experience when working at a club table that the day is much more fun when people come up to talk about joining. Bart

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Updated @jenswaldinger

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