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Oh, my oh my.... to see an original set of armor like this up close literally sends shivers through me. I will be making more than a few screen caps of this for reference images, and I believe mi hermanos @TKSpartan and @Chemi will be doing the same. Tack sa mycket, Daniel!

I hope these new photos do the job.

Not to disparage the Hengstler that came with it (below), as it was an actual Hengstler, but it lacked many of the details I wanted. I though about having one 3D printed, but since this will be my "swan-song" for this type of build I went with an alternative. Back to the Blaster Factory for a replacement! Their kit (seen below) is crazy accurate and has all the bells and whistles I was looking for. The kit is pretty easy to put together, and they have a great video to help with assembly. The only part I wanted to change was the numbers. When you order one, you choose one of 2 pre-printed selections (one seen below) that fit inside. BUT... I ended up cannibalizing the old one that came with it for the numbers to get the customized ones I wanted (pic 3). No surprise I used 10963, lol. I just glued the loose ones together and it fit perfectly. I lost the flat counter push button, so I ended up making one out of black ABS, which matches pretty darned good. I like the fact that the previous builder used metal for the power cylinders and mount (not an easy task to accomplish with store bought materials). I found them a little too long, though, and the mounting plate was not too accurate. This is how I received them (they were mounted to the magazine before removal). Again, the need for accuracy is gonna' cost me, but well worth it in my opinion. I looked around online and the best ones I found were again from the Blaster Factory. Fairly easy to build, and they even reproduced the Metalmite capacitors. There are several styles of mounts available, but I went with the "A". Not sure why, but I just like the look. I have built many set-ups like this using resin and 3D prints, but since these were all metal I figured I had better watch their tutorial. The only part I had a small issue with was mounting the ends of the cylinders to the little wing plates. They suggest to solder them, but I simply am at a loss on how to do that. I ended up using JB WELD "SteelStik" moldable epoxy in small amounts in the areas seen in red. This product is made for bonding metal, dries in less than 10 minutes and has bonded them fantastic. After a few coats of flat paint, the capacitors were CA glued in, wires connected and resistors attached.

The scope: Again, big props to the original builder for going with a real metal scope. Not just metal, but an original Sherman! The natural pitting on the body just adds to the authenticity, but sadly it is an M38-A2 model and this particular one was not used on any of the blasters seen in the film. So, another order from the BF for the 1942 M38 version was needed. Being machined the body didn't have the pitting, but the accuracy and details are phenomenal! A few coats of paint and the obligatory "lost greeb**" (yellow arrow) glued to the top and this part is DONE! ** What the heck is that? Link here to find out. T-tracks The T-tracks that were on it had a lot going for them (pic 1). Although they were a bit wide and covered up the holes in the shroud, they were rubber. Unfortunately they were glued on with an epoxy that I doubt even Emperor Palpatine could have removed with a light saber and were destroyed while trying to remove them. Instead of being tucked in to the holes (pic 2), they were cut off as squares (pic 1) due to the fact that the holes in the shroud were sealed closed from the black ABS pipe inside. I contemplated purchasing new T-tracks, but I ended up making one out of scrap ABS (pic 3), making another silicone mold and casting them in black plastic (I didn't think resin would hold up well when bending the ends). The ends were trimmed on the sides, cut to length, gently heated up over the burners on my stove and then inserted into the appropriate holes. I'm pretty danged happy with the result (last pic). By the way... As you may have picked up on I sculpt a lot of my own parts for my builds, make silicone molds and then cast them in either resin or plastic. Many (if not most) of the items I make are available either for free or just my cost for materials. All I ask is that you pay postage.

Those Blaster Factory power cylinders are SOOOO good. It's hard, if not impossible, to beat them at any price. Excellent choice! I'm a huge fan of their parts as well.

DISCLAIMER: Before I move on, no, I do not get any discounts or such from the Blaster Factory, lol. I have been ordering parts from them for many years for various builds. Their accuracy is unparalleled, and they are always available for questions/help. They are not the least expensive source for reproduction parts, but you get what you pay for, and I know I will never have an issue with their products.

A video to go with it

23rd of October 2023 Front-opening shins Because my Mini Imperial needed to be able to get the armour on and off by herself I had to rethink the tricky rear closure for the shins. So, I deviated from the CRL and went for front-opening/-closing, snapping shut with a magnet at the top and hinged at the back with an EVA foam cover strip. In order not to damage the EVA foam while glueing it to the shin I placed the original ABS cover strip over the top to even the clamping force. Top of left shin front with strong magnet closure Bottom front of shin with velcro strap inside (hooks facing out, loops facing in!) However: Creating a front opening was all well and good for the right shin but the sniper plate on the left shin presented a complication. I needed to make it removable but secure. Magnets were the obvious solution: And, to make sure the plate never got knocked off during trooping, I secured it with a strip of elastic:

Progress?

15th of September 2023 Safety modification The cutest tiny thermal detonator you ever saw I really wanted to avoid metal edges and anything that could hurt the Mini Imperial. Plus, I don’t have the tools to bend and shape metal. So for the TD brackets, I used ABS, scaled to sized and bent with a heat gun. Then covered the surfaces with adhesive foil tape. I cut them down to remove the portion that is normally hidden behind the belt. These do not need to be functional as I will bolt the TD directly onto the canvas belt itself.