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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/2023 in Posts

  1. Ok, right side not too bad either. Looks like I'll be painting this weekend. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    3 points
  2. Shots fired! So I'll just put a hold on the package going out to you with another meme coin? Equal opportunity merch acquisitionist here. Haha.
    3 points
  3. Celebration 501st and FISD group photos are starting to be shared, these from wayne.pictures WOW only 1 first order Stormtrooper More images here https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAyWtw
    2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. Oh yeah! Probably my favorite piece of merch ever. I used my Centurion approval # for the rear instead of my EI#, though. I don't get the chance to wear it much here in Florida, but this baby will be coming with me to Alaska in September.
    2 points
  6. ABS paste gap filling and repair night Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    2 points
  7. I feel attacked
    2 points
  8. Haha. We don’t limit our trades for only memes. We’ll take coins too.
    2 points
  9. Wayne was the Legion Photographer so these are the official photos.
    1 point
  10. My wife wonders when she gets her living room back. I said next paycheck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. So as promised here is a completely new build SE-44C with worming light
    1 point
  12. I’ve also added the drop boxes to the belt today
    1 point
  13. Can we put this up for a vote? I’m on my 3rd FOTK kit and the yoke has always been a problem. Recently I 3d printed the back/yoke and while trying to put it on, it snapped. Vacuum-formedABS doesn’t necessarily snap in that way, but it goes to show how much stress and repairs are needed in that area over time. There’s a reason why the Disney World troopers have the seam. It’s simply not easy to put on and take off. There are other CRLs that completely omit parts from level 1. Think the ANH stunt TK and the snaps/rivets. Seams IMO feel less important than components. And if someone is building a TK, “couldn’t they reasonably add snaps/rivets?” Let’s also not forget when the CRL allowed classic TK boots with the FOTK. It was an accommodation based on supply, but it was still an accommodation nonetheless. And at a much larger expense of accuracy than a seam. To me, this all comes across as exclusionary. We now have a new supply of FOTK kits that makes both the building process (no paint!) and the trooping much easier and accessible. It’s at the expense of a minor detail, but let’s be honest, the original kits were made of polyurethane which had flex capabilities. So if we are so stringent on accuracy then why aren’t we requiring poly kits? In summary: -We don’t have a supply of poly kits that flex -Current kits can be made to look like movie kits but break over time -People refuse to accommodate from the lack of supply of poly kits, but were perfectly fine to accommodate classic TK boots Makes total sense.
    1 point
  14. I didn't like how my forearms hung with 1" elastic. So I glued 2" nylon with snaps for the bells.
    1 point
  15. If these get sent back to Adam just because I'm at Celebration, I'm gonna cry
    1 point
  16. Also, when I get bored at work, I run to the forums. Finally I realized my shins were closing the wrong way (inside to out) so I spent the evening fixing that. If you want to see mistakes and then fixes, just hang out! Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. I’ll definitely do that, just wanted to see for the extra help there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  18. If you run a lighter or soldering iron across the ends of the elastic it will stop it from fraying
    1 point
  19. Used the supplied stuff. At least for now. I haven't gone back in to change it. Some day maybe.
    1 point
  20. So far, the ears are living up to their terrible reputation. Fortunately for me, the screen accurate helmets weren't perfectly flush either, but I'll leave it up to ya'll. How does the left ear look? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  21. Hey everyone! I've been at work applying the inner cover strip for the front after I trimmed the front of the right thigh piece down. With this fitting, the thigh piece feels snug enough based on the thumb rule. It's definitely a good thing that I decided to leave a few additional centimeters on each side on the front, as it looks like I don't have much margin for error on the backs on the top part of the thigh. It's not comfortable to walk in, but that's because the thigh piece is still sitting below the knee. I know that I'll also need to trim the bottom return edges out as the pieces moves up my leg as I trim the top of the thigh, but I'll get it assembled before I make those final trim cuts. Based on this fitting, these are the lines that I've established: As alway, any feedback before I made final cuts is appreciated! Also, It looks like the glue on my inner cover strip didn't take the best as it started to come off during the fitting process. I've got the inner strip re-glued and it is currently drying, so it'll be a few days before I get around to making final cuts on the backs.
    1 point
  22. +1 on that, I can't wait until larger resin printers become more viable for my budget
    1 point
  23. I looked like a dog chasing it's tail trying to reach it. Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    1 point
  24. If Glen retires...
    1 point
  25. Just to prove to everyone how much of a principle this is for me. I made more variations and here they are but I won’t be putting them on my blaster but they are here. Easy enough to Mount them but then I feel like I would be compromising a much larger point that I am making that I feel will help better FISD and change this course that I feel I have been seeing and hearing from many that we are going down. White with white, silver with black and silver with white
    1 point
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