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I haven't been slacking. well... I've kinda been slacking. Instead of working on my armor I decided to build my E-11b. Because you need a blaster for EIB, right?! Back around Christmas, Santa brought me THIS! It's the Sterling airsoft gun that was the E-11b base. Same blaster used in the movie for the hero shots and from which molds were taken. I'd planned to use Bryan's @trooper96 excellent 3D files, but since this metal one dropped in my lap, who was I to say no? And I used a lot of Bryan's 3D files anyway. They're all accurate to the E-11b and are based on this same airsoft gun, so they all fit. I was surprised to see this Siraya resin mix come out translucent. Once cured it's far less clear, but it sure looks cool on the build plate. The funky power cylinder straight from the printer. Everything required extremely minor sanding to get perfectly smooth. Since it's the airsoft gun, I went for the all metal hero blaster rail variant. I printed up the little blocks for rail mounting, but this way just seemed nicer. I also drilled and tapped the resin printed scope for mounting. Pretty sweet that the resin is that resilient. (Siraya 80% Fast ABS-like / 20% Tenacious FTW!) I splurged on the short magazine from evike. It's fully functional and apparently holds about 50 pellets. Instead of destroying my long magazine to cut it down, spending $28 on this seemed like a good choice. And the length matches the R1 screen-used ones. The weather has been terrible here lately. I've been waiting for a day warm enough to paint for ages. I finally just did some small spraying in the garage. Here's everything after about 5 coats of Krylon Fuzion. A last step with the scope getting lenses fitted to it. I love the red lens in my resin Quest Design blaster and thought it would be fun to have in this one as well. annnnd... here's the result of about two week's work. I tried to weather it the same as the promo blaster in the reference thread including the slight bend in the scope rail. . I've got the large eagle scope on this one since that's what I had laying around. This counter came from Blaster Factory and was meant to hold the BlastFX electronics in my Leia Leveller... but I've given up ever receiving that kit. I think it looks lovely on this blaster and am planning to keep it. Hopefully the small eagle counter isn't a CRL requirement. .... literally after typing that I looked at the CRL and discovered the small eagle IS required for Centurion. Guess I'll be printing another counter soon. ugh. Anyways, continuing on... Replica M300 flashlight and a VERY hard to find picatinny rail with the mounting holes outside of the three rails. It's not perfectly accurate since the far edges of the rail don't slope inwards, but it IS metal and works very nicely. The flashlight also works. Correct 1943 scope and R1 power cylinder. The folding stock is back in this shot, but I seem to have not taken one with the stock out and the blaster laying flat... You can even see an image though the scope. It's not very sharp, but you can see through it! I also printed my TK number on the counter. And lastly... a glimpse into my disorder. How does this happen you might ask? Gradually. It happens gradually. Next up I hope to start tearing into some helmets.

Dude I can relate to the ears.

Here comes the leg updates: I have attached the cover strips on all leg parts. I think about to add cover strips on inside too, because i don't trust the glue. Thighs: Shins: In the next days I will try the hot water bath because the back doesn't fit at all:

Hey, @T-Jay, found your twin (Oh, and I hope you didn't expect to escape ever having any memes made about you) It's a wonderful E-11 Also, no memes about the E-11 Blaster Reference so far? Shame on me

I do love my shoulder snaps. 0 time. The shoulders and biceps stay connected in my bin.

I have to say I reluctantly do this and just to prove a point I am actually mounting all variations. Here is your request. But below to stay true to my principle are the other variations which ARE accurate and screen represented. The CRL needs to allow for these. white and white silver and white silver and black

No I’ll probably use Velcro. I chatted with equuspolo (Ardeshir) and he recommended overlapping for extra support. Time to bite the bullet and glue the inner chest and back: Started cuttings for a batch of ABS paste:

Glueing the boxes on the forearms: And last to be glued, the back to the inner chest, but I’m still in the planning stage here, no glue, just magnets: I think the width of the pieces dictates where they will meet: I tried it on with just magnets and I can get my head thru, so that’s good. I guess I’m going to have to fix this seam also on the return edge: Before I actually glue, I’m gonna need to make sure my head will still fit thru once the outer chest is attached. I’m going to review lots of reference photos for this part.

I discovered this on our garrison calendar after yesterday's troop. It called for a high effort meme.

Me: I won't post any more memes today. Also me: I certainly am very proud -- this whole thread is awesome Did you know that you can get push-up notifications on your phone for the FISD?

Here's a couple of threads that may help, troopers with similar heights and modifications they have made to allow gaps and movement https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

Nice work so far! Glad you tested the yolk with magnets first for fitment-I did the same thing so I could get a feel for it. I think that overlap on the yolk will be fine. I had a butt joint on mine however, it was a 3 piece set-up from WTF. I used Devcon and then Proflex to blend the joint.

Just had to post this from the FISD Meme Thread:

SE-44C mounted

Thanks everyone for the welcome back and for the resources. I've started looking through the build threads and watching the videos by Captain's Drydock on YouTube. I'll be starting my own build thread soon!

Yeah definitely straighten and bring the belt up. The top of the plastic part of the belt should just barely touch the bottom of the lowest blue center ab button. I think you may be able to raise your biceps up a bit to have a little more overlap with the shoulder bells. That will then impact forearm placement. Your chest piece actually appears to have an appropriate amount of overlap with the ab piece, but you do appear to be a little shorter in stature (any chance you’d share your height?), so extra overlap could help overall fitment. Do you already have your chest-to-ab strapping in place? If so, it could be tightened as the chest appears to pulling up and away from the ab. There’s also some overlap in your back and kidney piece, and as you already mentioned, there is armor bunching around your cod/posterior and thigh pieces. So certainly some adjustment may be necessary.

OMG this is quality

Thanks so much for this, will head out and grab some today.

SUPER nice job on that weapon, Adam! "And lastly... a glimpse into my disorder. How does this happen you might ask? Gradually. It happens gradually". Amen, brother. It becomes an obsession.

Nice upgrade

SE-44C also now has working light

Sure enough. I was aware some of the screen used member costumes went for auction but I didn't know one of them wound up at Planet Hollywood. Funny I just happened to stumble upon it by chance. Thanks for sharing the additional photos and the article. They did not do that armor any justice with the way they have it displayed. Here's mine on a PVC and duct tape mannequin that didn't cost $14,000.00 to have on display in my living room.

Love the photos Ardeshir, no bad path here, only the fact that we asked for your patience sir. There is a lot going on in the background for election preparation which currently is a priority over CRL work. We have a process that allows our members to participate in the shaping of our CRL's, why should that be circumvented?, how is it a bad path for our members to be involved?

This is pure Gold, Caleb Your own ear collection is just as impressive! I'm a bit scared of Adam's snaps though... How long does it take to put the armor together?

@revlimiter & @Morgi

If Glen retires...

Seems you're as obsessed with ears as I am about TDs. Also: True story.

@justjoseph63 and @Deployment Officer Team - I've now updated first post in this submission with new frown paint images as requested. Thank you for your review! EDIT: The updates with full image set are shown at the very bottom of the first post, but here is a preview.

I have now completed our Membership Database update. It is now up to legion to do the sync before the election cycle begins.

Looking at the step I would probably look at trimming and butt join with a metal backing for more strength, having a step would definitely be a little hard to flatten. It's really down to how it is going to look once finished and if it will be ok for GML approval. This area can flex when putting on and off so stress cracks down the sides are very common. I've seen a couple add a hinge to this area like Phasma but you have to make it look seamless, Phasma's is covered with her cape.

Yup. Again.

When I help troopers assemble their armors, I ask for their second pair of ears, usually. Don't ask me why, I don't know either, but I got a nice bag of ears by now. If anyone has theirs and no use for them, feel free to let me know Look, the R1TKs, FOTKs, and Blasters are all super fascinating, but I honestly got no clue what you're talking about. I'll keep on reading and learning

Worked on getting the forearm polished up where I sanded off the trim lines. I had already sanded with 80 and 320 to get rid of the lines. Not a great picture, but here is where is was: Today I sanded with 400, 1000, and 2000, then I remembered I have Novus scratch remover, so I polished with some Novus 3, followed by 2. I’m really happy with how this turned out. This was practice for the rest of the seam removals.

Right forearm glueing complete, left forearm glueing: I also bought the supplies needed for the next phase of my build: Acetone to make ABS paste. White spray paint for the resin greeblies. Various grit sandpapers for prepping the ABS surfaces. Headlight polish for the final step of the seam hiding process.

Glueing the right forearm:

You really want to try this on to make sure you don't make it too short, as it goes over your ab, backplate and detonator plate.

Ab glueing complete: These seams are ready for abs paste. Next up was the shoulder bell tabs: Question: Anybody have tips on how much to overlap the inner chest and back?

So I did a test to see if I could just sand off the forearm trim lines, and be able to keep the proper TLJ shape (as described in a post I made above). So I carefully sanded with some 80, followed by some 220, and the results look really promising: After additional fine sanding, and then polishing, I think this is going to work great.