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Miss you guys.. things have been tough for me lately.. I was diagnosed in Jan 2020 with Young Onset Parkinson's so I have a new challenge in my life. I hope to get out trooping once Covid is more manageable, but things have been tough in Canada lately. Keep well all!!

I finally got around to adding the finishing touch, the metal side -late I had my brother make for me. (minus the screws, because I need to sort out the holster first) First scuffed up the side of blaster with a small Dremel engraving bit to let the e6000 grab something other than paint. I think it turned out nice!

Detachments are separate to the legion and garrisons websites, you need to request higher access on each detachment. You also need to post a link to your legion membership profile, have a look at the other posts

Some slow but steady progress. I had to add in a few wire extensions so components could fit where I wanted them. Attached the main display to gun. I still have to cover up the bit of circuit board you see closet to the receiver. I painted the little fake buttons with Tamiya metallic blue and orange paints for some visual interest. I also inserted the scope display and worked out a good distance to the lenses. They have to be at an optimal distance as the lenses magnify the tiny screen image. Just waiting for the scope display mount glue to dry. Here is the display inserted into the gun. The little white thing to the right is a small piece of scrap plastic I used as a tab or holder to manouvre the display inside the cavity. It doesn't need to be trimmed as it won't be seen when it is buttoned up. And yes, once it's all put together I will be posting a video.

As Glen said, don't go near it. Not just because there are dozens of issues with it's terrible details, but also the fact that it is way (and I mean WAY) overpriced. There are lots of "vetted" sellers listed in the thread he gave you a link to that can supply a fantastic kit for less money. You can also find kits on ebay etc. where you can pick up a set for a few hundred dollars, but you get what you pay for. Cheap re-cast garbage. Other advantages to purchasing from one of our "tried and true" sellers is that you know you are getting not just quality, but great customer service. Whoever you decide on, know that we are here for you every step of the way, from helping you find a kit to the build and beyond, so never be shy about asking questions. It's what we do here!

I am sorry to hear Angie, but i really hope you can get out and troop. Sometimes it's those little things that make such a huge difference to our lives and those we touch through what we do. Keep us posted on you, and your troops, we will always be hear for you.

Tarkan Koçoglu 23011 Letter @TKSpartan (Mario) Thank you! You are quite welcome, and congrats! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/23011-eib.png

Adding height to the kidney plate. Made a wooden form and cut a 3 inch piece and a 2 inch inside joiner strip. At 8.5 inches tall, adding the additional 3 inches looks huge. Will cut the arm locations and trim as necessary. This will keep me moving forward on the build (hopefully I will get a new kidney from Walt when he has formed them).

Thank you for the pointers. My wife helped me and did the best she could but doesn't really know what she is looking for even though I explained it and provided example pictures. I noticed those things and a couple other minor issues. I am already working to correct them.

This.... looks... FANTASTIC! Well worth all that effort, Adam. Your OCTKD is in full-on mode... (welcome to the club). Looking forward to the next batch of photos!

Worked on the armor some more today. Got the shoulder bells all glued up (E6000), and started work on one of the biceps. I cut out trapezoid to put in a resin cast detail later. Started taping it up to see how it fits. Tomorrow I will work on sanding edges and gluing up seems. On the seam that needs to be filled, I cut it flush so it would be easy to get smooth. I plan on filling with Evercoat Polyflex. The main question I debating at the moment is if I cut out the holes and back them with black gaffer tape I bought, or just put stickers on the after I paint. So here are progress pictures.

While that tip would have been probably been nice before the dremeling, I've apparently never had a set of spade bits. There's a couple in my drill drawer but not enough, so I've now got a nice set on the way from amazon for the next project that needs them. Thanks Tino!! It's always nice to expand the tool collection. Today's update - the Hengstler counter. I originally ordered the hollow/empty counter from Tino to keep my options on this build open. I thought it might be good for electronics. I also wanted to print my own numbers as I did on my Hellhounds build. And then I was installing a set of early Miata gauges in a cluster for photos and spotted the odometer size. Look at those numbers... those 6 digits. Perfect? MAYBE!!! I make mostly Miata parts for a living, specifically gauge components, so I have a lot of clusters laying around. I fished a parts cluster out of the shed and harvested the odometer from it. A few minutes of work got some digits free and shoved in the Hengstler box for sizing. The box both closed and showed the numbers through the window. Proof of concept! Then I spent the next hour carefully hacking the odometer into place in the counter. The reset shaft (the "top" shaft seen in the pic where I'm holding the odometer) is the exact size for the holes in the Hengstler. It's a bit too long, but a quick snip got it cut down to size. I kept the security spacers between the digits for nice spacing. I moved that blank column from after the ones to before the hundred thousands. And I had to neuter the reset ability. The white teeth got nearly completely cut out and the springy reset button no longer springs. But that's okay. Having an NA Miata odometer inside my Hengstler with my TK number is maybe the best thing I could ever hope for. I've owned an NA Miata for almost 22 years now. It's part of my soul. And now it's part of my blaster.

Very good progress, Adam. Glad to see it worked and you are happy with the result. Sorry for being late with that tip, but spade drill bits are ideal for hollowing resin scopes because these create 'flakes' instead of fine dust and do the job pretty fast. Maybe it still helps future builders... Can't wait for your next update.

I managed to not take a pic of my new Sterling folding stock from Joseph. I'm trying to decide if I'm brave enough to integrate this into the Questdesign. I did manage to get a bit of work done. I started with the spring. I printed the excellent spring forming tool from this thread... It worked a treat after I read the part mentioning that the tool needed to be glued to the PVC pipe. It doesn't work too great without being glued on there. But man did it produce a nice spring. Just perfect. Unfortunately it didn't fit the Quest blaster. The tube walls are apparently super super thick. So I shrunk the spring down to the 1/2" pipe size annnd... still too big. WTF blaster? Then I finally got out the calipers and measured the tube. I wandered all over the garage and house looking for a decent pipe or handle that would go in the E11 and found a random bamboo butterfly net from last summer. It fit just right. I shrunk the spring down to fit the bamboo but had just terrible spacing on the coils, so I smashed it down to full compression and then manually opened each coil up to a mostly-even spacing. Once inside the barrel I rotated things to show 11 exposed coils. It scratched the heck out of the inside, so I carefully repainted with a small brush... and got paint on the spring. It has since been fixed. No visible paint is currently on that spring. Then I got brave and whipped out the dremel. Off came the blobs on the front barrel and in went Tino's correct socket head capscrews. I'll fill any imperfections with green stuff. But holy crap is this a lot better by itself. And the Quest Design resin cuts easily. I decided I was bold enough to hack out this incorrectly pointing screw... and then I discovered it was aluminum under the paint. Some careful work with a screwdriver has it pointing the right way.

Fantastic to hear, James! My Stunt and HWT armor are AM, and even after many years no cracks or yellowing. LOVE IT! As a bonus, Dave is a great guy to deal with. As Glen mentioned, since (if built to specs) you should consider planning on Centurion! We are here if you need any help, and be sure to post up lots of photos

You will find links to most tricks and tips in this thread And when in doubt check with our gallery sections https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ Make sure you check with the CRL when building so you include all the EIB requirements https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt And if building to EIB why not take that extra step and build to centurion, there really isn't that much work You can also check the EIB photo requirements here For adjusting your old kit to your partners sizing check out a few of these threads https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/ Good luck, looking forward to seeing your BBB photos soon.

The final touch is ready. (Holster screws will come later once I sort that thing out) Bad paint job fake metal part to be replaced with real aluminum part my brother milled for me!