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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2021 in Posts

  1. Name: Adam Wolf Height: 5'11" Weight: 165 lbs Armor: AP Helmet: AP Blaster: HyperFirm E-11 Boots: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates: Rubber (AP) Electronics: Ukswrath (Hovi-tip Speakers, Hearing Assist, & Fans) Neck Seal: Darman's Props Holster: AP Build Thread: EIB Thread: Full Body Photos: Front Back Right Left Right Detail Left Detail Action shot Action shot 2 Armor Details: Cod/Posterior connection Shoulder bridge front Shoulder bridge side Shoulder bridge rear Ammo pack Ammo pack Ammo pack Sniper knee Sniper knee Sniper knee Wrist openings Ab plates Butt/kidney connection Interior strapping Arm strapping Helmet Details: Front Back Left Right Hovi tips and vocoder S-trim Ear screw details - Left Ear screw details - Right Interior build (showing green lenses) Accessories: TD Front TD Rear Rubber gloves Holster attachment Whole belt, rear Boots Blaster: Left Right Rear / D-ring Thank you for your time, consideration, and helping me build the best armor I can build!
    3 points
  2. Hello everyone. Been a little MIA due to work. Here is my TLJ Executioner submission. This is the same suit that is EIB approved already. That TFA is being submitted for Centurion. Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Armor Maker = KB Armor - Trimmed to fit like Anovos Helmet Maker = Anovos Plastic Helmet Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Gloves = Endor Finders Belt = Trooperbay Belt Pouches = Trooperbay Pauldron = Trooperbay Neck Seal = Imperial Seamstress Holster Maker = Dan Sczudlik Gaskets = production made silicon rubber gaskets F-11 = Branfuhr Studios Resin Kit- Custom built by me with custom light system. SE-44C = 3DPrintMerchant Electronics = Wireless Microphone with Acker Amp Custom Parts = Chest yoke and Backplate welded together with ABS Slurry. Chest Pills and Chest cut out backed with Textured Fabric, TD slurry welded. Entire armor painted with Rustoleum 2x Glossy White. Belt, Cod, Butt Plate attached to armer with Anovos leather waist tassets EIB Approval for SAME TFA Suit EIB Approval UPDATED TLJ COD PIECE Updated Gray Painted Rail Button
    2 points
  3. This thread was a huge help to me while installing my SHA, so I thought I'd share my own mounting solution. I started out trying to fit a set of cheap Sony headphones in my bucket. They're model MDR-ZX110 if anyone is interested and about $20 from amazon. They mount on the ear instead of over the ear. I snipped off the over-head part and stuck on some velcro to hold them in place. The sony units did indeed fit, but I had to remove one (or BOTH! ugh) to put on or remove the helmet. Not too hard to do honestly. Just slide them up and then the velcro holds them in place. But this was unfortunately impossible to do while wearing armor. I just don't have that much arm articulation or finger dexterity with the plastic in the way. But omg, the sound from these things! Gloriously loud and very clear. So I sliced open some of my tactical armor pads. Each consists of three pieces - a fluffy open cell foam, a closed cell pad, and a sheet of vinyl. I hollowed out the closed cell pad for a headphone. PLEASEIGNORE THE ABOVE HEADPHONE. This was a cheap pillow speaker that didn't work nearly as nice as the ZX110. But it was a good proof of concept. Then I figured out that the Sony headphones could be unscrewed and disassembled. Each driver had two screws holding it in place. Removing it made these just slightly thicker than the pillow headphones. The padding got sliced up a bit more and the Sony drivers mounted inside. I put a healthy amount of gaffer tape over the back of each headphone to protect the delicate wires and everything else. I left the padded ear cups in place. This is my final helmet configuration. The ICOMM and amp live at the very top and are covered in fuzzy velcro. These act as pads at the top edge of my head and are actually comfortable. The SHA lives in the very back and gets covered by a neutered helmet pad. The headphones live inside those ear pads and fit perfectly. I can take the helmet on and off. It's a tight fit, but not a bad one. Fans and fan battery are mounted at the front. The battery lives inside the vocoder recess. Sound is amazing. With the SHA turned all the way up, I have much more acute hearing than without the bucket on. It's painful if there's a lot of noise nearby and I have to turn it down. With a bit of careful tuning, I was able to get the SHA to output basically normal hearing levels. Nothing's muffled or overly boosted. It's like not having my bucket on. Note: I was not able to achieve adequate volume with the pillow speakers. I needed these "big" Sony ones. But they kick out the volume. Well worth the effort to fit them. Posting the headphones first may be a bit backwards, but it was actually much more work for me to get the headphones working. Next up, the mics. Enormous thanks to @fishgoh0nk for all the info on mounting those mics, otherwise the headphones would not have been the hard part.
    2 points
  4. In case anyone hasn't seen it yet:
    2 points
  5. I happened to have a spare set of Trooperbay vinyl stripes on hand, so I did this fix immediately. Mr No Stripes Saves Christmas. Spacing on the left with my CORRECT new stripes. Spacing on the right. So much better! FIXED!!! Ready to apply for Centurion.
    2 points
  6. The project that I have been working on has been chugging along - about to have an announcement in a couple of days so I thought that I'd create a landing zone for here. I'll start by gathering the production photos already posted around the net:
    1 point
  7. So, after quite a few evenings spent reading various threads on here, I ordered a kit from RS Propmasters. It only took around 10 days to arrive, despite the horrendous problems we are having with supply lines and shipping at the moment. However, when the BBB arrived last weekend, it looked like it had been thrown out of the back of the plane onto the tarmac. So I took several photos, more than I will post here, then unpacked everything, thankfully no damage was found on the armour :-)
    1 point
  8. This was my original mic mounting plan. This thread convinced me to not do this. But I had the hole pre-drilled and wanted to show how nice the mics fit in there. They also fit THROUGH a hole that size very nicely. A quick test with the mics taped into place here and the fans turned on discouraged me from doing anything with this mounting solution. I made some pencil marks at my approximate ear hole locations and test fitted the ears back on to see how much room there was for the SHA mics. And there was room! Plenty in fact. And the wires allow this sort of mounting. They bend nicely and there's space behind the ears in my AP bucket for this kind of mounting. This is a small rectangle of closed cell foam. It's high-impact seat foam I used to use in a racing bucket for Autocross. You do not need to use something this exotic. It was simply what I had laying around. A few layers of EVA foam would likely work, or even some open cell couch foam. Just something to isolate the mics from the helmet and confine them to inside the ears. My rectangles are about 32mm by 16mm. Full height of the material at about 25mm. They wedge into the ears quite nicely. I then hollowed out a recess for each mic. The foam is just there to isolate the mics, not to rigidly mount them. This type of cushion/foam has a canvas backing. I left that in place to hold the mics in as securely as possible. The mic and foam is gaffer taped in place. This seemed like a ghetto solution at the time, but it has the benefit of being accessible for service if needed. The mics are held in place securely, and it has performed very well for the past several weeks. I think the gaffer tape is a good mounting solution for this. The blue foam helped with mic alignment. If I saw blue foam while shoving the mic around, that meant it wasn't aligned right with the holes. Black = good alignment. I finished off the ear packet with some open cell packing foam that was laying around the garage. It's rather thick, but it compressed nicely. It further isolates the mics from inner bucket sounds. After being installed a few days I opened things back up to check on them. The packing foam compressed beautifully and there's not much stress on anything. Everything fits extremely well and there's no gap that wasn't there before. Fan noise with the helmet on and SHA running is precisely as loud as it is inside the helmet without the SHA running. So, while I can still hear the fans, the mics aren't picking them up at all. It's just what I hear inside the helmet anyway. I don't have words for how much I love the SHA and my hacked up headphones. Best bucket upgrade ever. Thanks again to @ukswrath, @fishgoh0nk and everyone else who has contributed to this thread.
    1 point
  9. Turned out great! It looks super clean and comfy!
    1 point
  10. Great video, well done troops, looked like an amazing event
    1 point
  11. What's his number? We'll never know... script v english v German I'm actually kind of curious if other languages got any more IDs for this guy.
    1 point
  12. Hang in there, Adam. I'll be with ya' as soon as possible!
    1 point
  13. Yes!! Blast through this approval as well!! Good luck!!
    1 point
  14. Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper
    1 point
  15. I received EIB today!!!! Approval 1037!!! And my one big thing to fix for Centurion is my tube stripes. Which is... embarrassing. See, I was told that my tube stripes were backwards back in 2019. And I have a clear memory of fixing them! I ordered two sets of the tube stripe vinyl from trooperbay and have one set left. I knoowwwwww I fixed them. However, the stripes on my bucket exactly matched the original pix showing my backwards stripes, down to the millimeter. Even if I managed to re-apply the stripes backwards, I don't think I would have had the placement so exact... I can only surmise that I never did that fix. Very embarrassing. Anyways, here's a bunch of pix of tube stripes. WRONG. Backwards. I have no idea how I didn't fix this. OR where that second set of spare stripes went. Mr No Stripes Saves Christmas. Carefully measured and laid out. And fixed! It's so subtle but so much better. My left side was quite a bit too low. I had the right really good, but this one wasn't at the level. Careful alignment. Have I mentioned that I love these vinyl stripes? Yeah. That's the good stuff. Spacing on the right. FIXED!!! Ready to apply for Centurion.
    1 point
  16. Hi Jessie, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/ additional reference images) when reviewing/approving submissions. Not all items may be specifically listed in the CRLs but may be required for higher levels. Thank you again for your patience, Jessie. Just a couple of things to mention here. -Ideally , the ear screws should go aligned with the rear edge of the Traps. It is mentioned for your consideration only (we know this is a difficult issue to fix). Reference images -The angle on the top of the sniper knee plate. It's close, but for a better look we are recommending that you trim it down (to closer match the reference images). Reference images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Your left side is perfect. You just need to adjust the strapping on the right side a little...An easy fix. Reference images CRL L3: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. The position of the belt is ok (according to crl). You just need to raise it a little for a better look. Reference images CRL L3: "Ideally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor". Although it's not much gap, we think that we can see them a bit closer. Maybe just a matter of tightening up the canvas belt. Reference images As seen in the reference images, there are no gaps on the lower ridge of the thighs. Although the gap is very small, we suggest gluing a small piece of ABS behind that gap. You can then fill it with some ABS paste for a perfect finish. Reference images Finally, you can give to the blaster a light coat of paint in these areas(to remove weathering), since according to the CRL, "T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic". And that' s all Jessie. We hope to see your Centurion application soon.
    1 point
  17. It is with a heavy heart that I mourn the passing of Terrell Reber, who was my XO for many of the early years of FISD and later became DL in his own right. In that time, he contributed his insight and wisdom in many areas most particular in the areas of armor, molds, and armor making. He was the first person to find a legitimate, conflict free path to selling TE derived armor when he founded ATA. It may be hard to believe, but there was a time those years back when a decent set of FX armor was $1200 and TE type armor was hard to acquire from a reputable person. ATA changed much of that, and ATA set the bar for providing quality armor at an affordable price. Hence ATA: affordable trooper armor. He was very picky about quality and hunted for plastic suppliers who would provide virgin material with the right shade of white. He could have charged more and had a long wait list, however felt that would be against his principles. These days there are many options for people to procure quality TE type armor at an affordable price, and we have a solid list of reputable makers. It can be hard to believe that it wasn’t always this way, or that even having a public list of vetted armor makers was considered taboo. With a glance at a picture, he could tell you the make of the armor or helmet and could spot all the “tells” that was uncanny. He gave selflessly his experience and advice to FISD members time and again. However, most of all I will remember him as someone who was always there to take a phone call when needed. Who gave selflessly to this hobby that he loved. 43 is just too young. Buckets off, as I drain it of my tears.
    1 point
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