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Hello all! After hours of work, I have finally been approved for the 501st, Central California Garrison! I can't wait to join you all on my first troop. I've been wanting to build my own TK armor for the longest time, and being mostly at home for the past 4 months was the perfect opportunity to do just that! It was hardest creative work I've ever attempted, but the journey was fun and the outcome was amazing

Greetings from the carolinas! I just turned 18 in december and have worked my tail off for years trying to get into the 501st legion since i was about 12 years old. I was finally put on the waiting list for an ATA kit last week and was wondering if i could get some tips on putting it together. I jave some experience building model kits but not much other than that. I also hope to convert it into an HWT. Thanks from the carolinas!

Ok I have been collecting bits for several years, this part from here, that part from there. (Details later) and yesterday, my biggest box finally arrived, my KB A- FOTK kit. The build can finally begin! (I’m sure there will be things I’m missing) Next, find time to sort and label things and continue researching others KB builds to get a better feel for how these kits go together. Parts: Armor - KB Props (May the 4th A-) Helmet - Anovos Standard (FA and TLJ) {also got a KB FA helmet, but I may sell it} Gaskets - Geeky Pink’s (Then perhaps rubber ones) Neckseal - Geeky Pinks or Anovos (have both) Belt - Belts of the First Order Belt Pouches - Trooperbay Gloves - Imperial Boots Boots - Imperial Boots Metal Holster - R2Dan (order request posted, no response at the moment) F-11D - Imperial Factory printed 5th Horseman and Anovos F-11D guts - BlastFX (in the T5H at some point) SE-44C - Imperial Factory printed 5th Horseman Voice Amp - TRamp

Name: Paxton Sanders TK ID: 36770 Forum Name: Paxjor91 Legion Profile: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32765 Garrison: Garrison Titan Height: 5' 10". Weight: 170 lbs. Armour maker: RS Propmasters Helmet maker: RS Propmasters Blaster maker: RS Propmasters Boot maker: Imperial boots. Belt supplier: RS Propmasters. Hand guard supplier: RS Propmasters. Holster maker: RS Propmasters Electronics: Ukswrath Icomm, Hovi Speakers and Cooling System NOTE: I added a couple of redo pictures from feedback I received. Full Body: Front Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Action Shot Armour Details: Abdomen Button Plates Cod and Posterior Plate Connections Interior Strapping Wrist Opening Left/Right sniper knee plate close up Left/Right thigh ammo pack rivet close up Helmet Details: Front Side Back Hovi Lense Color Accessory Photos: Neck seal TD (Thermal Detonator) front and rear showing screw type Holster attachment ABS/canvas belt (rear) Boots (showing tops and sides) Rubber gloves Blaster Detail Left side Right side Rear showing D-ring EDIT: I received some feedback for the way the blocks on the belt where centered on my body and also that the screws on the TD were not black. Fixes have replaced the incorrect photos!

Hi Everyone I'm just about to commission RWA for a fully built ANH TK Trooper armour, and would love eventually to join the UKG. Growing up during the O.T years, the Stormtrooper always resonated with me. I now have a once in a lifetime opportunity to have my own armour. I was directed here by a friend of mine that is a TS in the UKG

Hey all! Lady trooper here working on my first TK. I recently received kit from WTF, and hope to start trimming and all that jazz soon. This project is not going to set any speed records and truth be told I'm feeling a bit daunted by the prospect. My TIE was a completed set so no building required there, and my Maladi was mostly fabric work, so this is the first time I'm really working with armor of this type. Then there's the height consideration. I'm excited though and looking forward to advice!

Sorry only one coffee this morning, should have been this reference

Thank you for your super fast response .

Just sprayed some satin white inside today. Tomorrow I'll trim and barrel and the belt halves.

Hello and welcome aboard you will find a lot of build thread for the heightwardly challenged

A great thread on posting images using Imgur can be found here

Hmmm trying to get images from imgur to work rather than how I have been doing it.... not working. GOT IT!

After looking over a number of other Centurion applications, I decided to raise my brow trim to become a high brow-er! I think it looks pretty cool! I had always liked the low brow look, but the high brow look slowly grew on me.

So, I was having the boy try things on yesterday, and suddenly Cameron began complaining that the forearms were too tight around the wrist. Wait, whaaa??? They weren't too tight before! OMG, nooooooooo..... I Dremeled the insides of the wrist to open them up, but there really wasn't much to be removed. Cameron was gracious about the little bit of modding I did to the forearms by saying, "It's fine, Mom, really. It won't hurt that much. It'll look fine. I can take it." He was being really sweet because he knew how much work went into everything so far, and he didn't want me to have to make even more parts. I explained to him that the good thing about having a 3D printer is that we can make new parts as he grows, and I had expected this to happen. Welp, I knew it was bound to happen sooner or later... the boy needs larger forearms now- even before his first troop. Okaaaay, so those parts won't just magically appear themselves! I turned on the printer, scaled a larger forearm, resliced the file, and am currently reprinting new (larger) forearms and forearm greeblies. The old scale was 76, 76, 73, and the new scale is 78, 80, 73 to allow for a wider (and slightly more oval) opening at the wrist for more comfort. I printed out a test wrist piece first to verify the X and Y would be large enough, but not too big. Each forearm takes about 12 hours to print and the greeblies will take another 8 or so. Nice thing is that the forearms print all in one piece, so sanding and painting will be fairly easy. Time to buy some more 2K Gloss!

Thanks for the reply! Here are the requested photos that I was missing. Sniper Knee Thigh Ammo Rivet Ab Buttons Cod Piece/Butt Plate Lower Ear Screw In regards to the Hovi Mic Tip, I have this other wire mesh that I bought for the inside of the helmet. Would this work? I did essentially use the one provided by WTF, and I was under the assumption that it was approved even for Centurion status, but that's OK, easy fix anyway. Here are the two meshes as comparison. The left one was the one that was in the Hovi tip initially. Newly inserted

Done. Please see my new picture confirming this. Many thanks. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Welcome Kaitlin! I've sized down a WTF kit to fit a 4'11" garrison friend, so you can rest assured that the WTF armor can be modded to fit your height for sure. You've got this! How tall are you? Post lots of pics, ask tons of questions, and don't let the build scare you. We're here for you. Jump in and have fun!

Perfecto...Nunca los vi tan de cerca. Debería haberlos comprado Perfect ... I never saw them so closely. I should have bought them

Hola Chemi, esos son los speakers del sistema de voz de @ukswrath . aprobados para L3. saludos Hi Chemi those are the ukswrath voice system. they're approved for L3. Cheers

Hi Dylan, you are in for a wonderful journey and a ton of fun, welcome to FISD

One reason could very well be a small amount of mould release was still present on the surface of the armour, This is a silicon bases spray and can definitely prevent glue from bonding to an area.

Looking good

Very nice, I've been using the magnet closure for years and works great

So, do you do consulting work on full size FOTK armor (asking for a friend). Your spat idea is awesome and easy to understand, thanks for the photos.

Coming along nicely

Okay, let's talk SPATS. I mentioned earlier that I was working on assembling the spats, and now I can safely say that I am done! Here's my own take on these: First, I had to cut the file so the back seam and buckle part could be completely detached from the front part of the spat and still remain in one piece. A little time in Meshmixer took care of this easily. Next, I had to figure out how to attach the spat together, allow it to open, and still remain fixed to the shin. I read recently that the screen used suits closed using a snap popper and velcro, and the front half was attached to the shin with VHB tape. I decided to emulate this with some changes. If you've followed my magnetic shin mods for my TK builds, you can guess that it didn't take much for me to realize that a magnet would work perfectly in this application instead of a snap. I had an assortment of N52 magnets on hand, so I picked out something small that would fit nicely and still remain hidden. Here you can see the hole I drilled for the magnet. I made sure that the magnet would fit through the hole without any issues. It's a go! Next I made a few magnet buttons (one for each spat). I cleaned off the extra E6000 later. While the glue cured on the buttons, I made a mark for where the opposing magnet needed to be glued on the outer part of the spat. Here you can see the pencil mark where the opposite magnet will go. I used some blue tape to make sure that the spat was lined up well, then glued the magnet on the outer half of the spat. Here you can see how it fits inside the hole. And how it looks when it is open. I made sure to clean up the excess glue from around the magnet to ensure a tight closure. Here are the magnet buttons fully cured. I trimmed the extra plastic around them to make sure they fit nicely in the inner part of the spat. Inside button glued in place. Outside view so you can see how tightly the closure connects. Additional view of the installed magnets. The magnets stay locked with the magnetic attraction and the physical lock of the opposite magnet being seated inside the hole of the spat. Additional views: Next I took some VHB tape I had on hand to attach the spat to the shin. I stuck some leftover Velcro tape vellum to on the tape to make the VHB tape easier to work with while trimming. Stuck on. This is just a temporary test fit for now, which is why the segment is short. I then attached loop velcro to the spat and sewed some elastics with hook velcro for closures. Spat stuck on and it looks good to me! Back view of the half-assembled spat. The boots I bought for Cameron didn't work out (not at all like in the pics in the eBay listing!), so I picked up some leather-like Vans that will work well for him. I still need to paint the bottoms rubber black. I had Cameron try on the shoes and shin with the spat in place. Here you can see how the spat fits. The spat is only attached to the shin at the front, allowing flex of the two halves for the foot to go in the shin part. You can see the flap of elastic and velcro on the right. That will secure the spat and allow for a little flex if needed. The elastic flap allows for a hinge-type closure, with the magnet locking the halves together. Closed and easily locks. Magnets FTW! All together now! Ideally, I should have left the VHB tape alone for several hours before attempting to mess with it. I found it came off pretty easily once we removed the shin. This might also be because the 2K gloss is really slick stuff, and I think most tape adhesives would have a tough time sticking on it. I think a good solution to adhere the front of the spat to the shin would be to simply glue it there with E6000 and let it cure for a few days. That will be my next step for these. Overall, I'm pretty happy with my spat solution now. I'm still adjusting strapping and gaskets, so work now can proceed on other areas to take me to the finish line.

Well, now you can call that whole costume "screen used" [emoji6]

Hard to say for sure because our time in those two episodes was split over three days and we moved around quite a bit. I THINKKKK in that shot, I'm this guy? I remember having to step out of the way when Giancarlo walked up, then filled back in behind him. And honestly, I think it's good that I have such a hard time picking myself out. The troopers that stuck out usually weren't for good reasons - we should all just blend and look the same in armor! I know for sure that's me in the balaclava on the right in Episode 3 tho

I have. I've been selling it with my Shoretrooper rigging kit for about a year. This is a picture of my Shoretrooper armour with the brown/black elastic on it.

Some nice progress.

For those that just need to know

Going to be a pain but I think you may be asked to change all those images which show the drop boxes in the wrong place

Good catches! At least they are super easy fixes, thanks for the feedback! Pics are uploaded in the original post.

Dave M from Trooperbay, they emulate the hand painted look https://trooperbay.com/dave-m-helmet-decals

Test fitting today!!! Test fittings are awesome, but also a challenge to get through. I love seeing everything together for the first time. But I am not a fan of all the fine tuning that is so necessary at this stage. I still need to add black paint to the ab boxes. Adjustments need to be sewn into the belt for the thighs and rotations adjusted. Suspenders also need adjustment. The big one is that while I thought I had the biceps rigged in well, they just weren't hanging correctly with the strap I had installed in them. I have velcro sewn into the ends of the vest sleeves, so I used that to temporarily secure the biceps on the arms. The biceps kept slipping down as Cameron moved around, and as a result the forearm ends were cutting into his wrists. I'll have to make this connection more robust for the next fitting so the biceps stay put. Oh, and I put the leg gaskets on in the wrong orientation, so I couldn't put on the knee caps (and we weren't up for taking off parts again). D'oh! Now for the pics! Short test fit video. Again, biceps were slipping and will be fixed. Cameron is always so animated until I get the camera on him, then he's Mr. Serious! His boots arrived right after we took pics- how's that for timing? And I'm still adding paint to finish the helmet, but that should be done soon. Very close to being finished!!! Time for me to take a well-deserved break before finishing the detail work. I always get a little sad at the end of a build, so I want to prolong things just a little to enjoy it without feeling exhausted. EDIT: and spats are currently in assembly mode!

Gloves. Impossible to locate somewhat screen-accurate gloves in Cameron's size. I even bought a pair of FOTK gloves from Endor Finders in their smallest size, but they are huge on him. I decided to upgrade the old gloves he wore with the old suit instead. These are Rubie's kids size FOTK gloves. Essentially, they are made of stretchy polyester, white on the palm side, black on the back of the hand, and a piece of white foam stitched on the back of the hand to simulate a hand plate. It was simple to remove the foam plate with a seam ripper. Then I added velcro to the backs of the plates and back of the gloves. Done! Next, I decided that I could do better for Cameron's leggings for his undersuit. While they seemed somewhat suitable under the armor, they were really too big. I was constantly failing at finding a pair made from the stretchy shiny material I wanted that would actually fit his toothpick-legs. The only solution left was to make a pair. Which I have never done before. Still, sewing a pair of leggings looks easier than sewing a shirt... So I taped together a bunch of tissue paper to make a very large sheet I could draw on. I folded the "too-large" pair of leggings in half and traced the shape. Then I cut out the leggings shape slightly smaller than the original (ha! I now have a PATTERN!), and placed it on two layers of stretchy shiny black fabric. I traced the pattern piece on the fabric, cut out the fabric, sewed the edges, and voila, I ended up with some slick leggings. Big hurdle was trying to sew the waistband on these, though. The material likes to stick and stretch on the sewing machine plate. I ended up applying blue tape to the areas where I needed to sew to stabilize the material and allow for it to better slip under the presser foot. It worked well, but man, a total PITA to remove. Once I sewed the waistband and removed the tape, I had myself some leggings! Shiny! Here's what the old leggings vs the new leggings look like. Cameron is thrilled with the better fitting leggings! He reports that these new leggings are so comfortable that he did not want to take them off. Seriously, I had to do an incredible amount of pleading to get Cameron to change out of them. And I guess I'll keep the larger leggings for when he (eventually) grows.

Good progress made today. The belt is done. Biggest challenge of working with a scaled-down suit is that the belt has much more of a pronounced curve. I had to test fit each box to verify that the belt was properly stretched over the ab before making any holes. If the boxes had been installed while the belt was laying flat, the webbed part of the belt would have ended up too short. Below you can see the curve- the belt won't lay flat, but fits nicely on the ab.

I really liked Tony's bicep strapping bracket system, so I crafted one based on how he detailed his build. I eyeballed his template and made a crude drawing similar to what's in his pics. Smaller for Cameron's build, of course. I have extra ABS cover strip material from various TK builds, so that's what I used as my material for these. Traced mirrored halves onto the ABS. Cut them out. Hacked away at the holes with a Dremel. Mine aren't nearly as pretty as Tony's, but they will do! Stuck some self-adhesive 1/4" neoprene to the backs. Again, Tony's always look so much better than mine!!! I heat shaped them to Cameron's shoulder curves, then followed along with what Tony did to rig the brackets all up. I made a few deviations for Cameron's setup, but it's all pretty much the same kind of result. Top view from the back. Can't wait to hook the bells to this! Speaking of which, I've got shoulder bells and thighs waiting for their straps to cure on them. Gonna try to get the belt finished today.