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To clarify, you have both outer parts on your right leg and both inner parts on your left leg as in this configuration below. This is how they should look below.

CHEST First up, I wanted to tackle the chest piece, as this to me was the most iconic of the FOTK. To cut out the 6 oval pill holes, I sanded down the indents from the back. By doing this, you are ensured of identical holes once you sand the indents flat. Here's all six of them sanded flat from the back: And this is how it finally looks from the front. Pretty satisfied with it, I must say. Next up, to tackle the chest pill box. I drew the outline of the resin attachment from the back, and then proceeded to cut the rectangle out CAREFULLY. Truly a heart-stopping step. I test-fitted it onto the chest. Glad it was a good fit, and I didn't have much to fill later. Next, I removed the slot from the pillbox, and from the back, I also created notches so that later when I apply epoxy putty around the pillbox, it would hold much better, compared to just the being held by only the rectangular frame of the cut-out. Glued the pillbox in place using CA, and then proceeded to apply 2-part epoxy putty around the back and front. This is how it looked dried and sanded down. That pillbox is not going anywhere! The front after sanding down. And finally, after a coat of primer. Again, pretty satisfied with the result. It does not look like 2 pieces. Calling the chest piece done! Stay tuned for the next part... UPDATE: I realised that my head is small enough for me to slot through the yoke WITH the chest piece attached. As such, I will be fixing the chest piece onto the yoke. I didn't like the way the 2 sharp ends of the chest piece will pop up, and since I can now put my head through, I decided to drill 2 holes onto the yoke, where the chest piece sharp ends are going to be. Then I will glue 2 bolts under the chest piece, go through the yoke, and secure the other side with nuts. Here are the holes: And here is the chest piece attached to the yoke via the 2 bolts. This is how it looks like from the inside. The excess bolt will be shaved off. I reinforced the bolts with epoxy putty, making the sharp ends much stronger, and the bolts secure. Finally, the chest piece with the greeblies added, primed and sanded with 1500 grit. This piece is now ready for the painters.

Finally, after having bits and pieces except the armour since 2017, I managed to get my hands on an ANOVOS TFA kit, and so finally my build can commence! Armour, Helmet and Neck Seal: Anovos TFA Gaskets: Imperial Gaskets (rubber) Boots and Gloves: Imperial boots Undersuit: Stormtrooperundersuit F11D Blaster: 3D Print As I build, I will be linking those parts here for easy reference instead of scrolling through every post. Disclaimer: I am intending to build this to Level 3 certification, so hopefully the CRL doesn't change drastically during my build. Comments are welcome! And here's the kit in all its glory. Washed with mild soap to remove any release agents that might be on the plastic. The basic tools that I am using: Cutting and Sanding Proxxon Handheld Jigsaw for cutting ABS: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38530.php Belt Sander for fast sanding Proxxon Handheld Belt Sander for finer but still fast sanding: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38536.php Files, various grades of sandpaper for final sanding Adhesives CA Glue for small quick joints Weicon epoxy for final and large joints: https://www.weicon.de/en/applications/bonding-and-sealing/linking-major-parts/for-large-bond-gaps/54/easy-mix-n-50-epoxy-adhesive Weicon Epoxy glue dispenser gun and mixing nozzle Cutting the pieces Every piece was first outlined with a marker pen to understand where to cut off. I tool care to use references and other build threads to see where there would be return edges, and where there wouldn't. Golden rule: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. BUILD INDEX CHEST PART 1 CHEST PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 1 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 3 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 4 YOKE AND BACK FOREARMS PART 1 FOREARM BAD PULL REPAIR FOREARMS PART 2 THIGHS BICEPS HELMET HANDPLATES COD PIECE PART 1 COD PIECE PART 2 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 1 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 2 SHOULDER BELLS PART 1 SHOULDER BELLS PART 2 ABDOMEN PART 1 ABDOMEN PART 2 SHOULDER TABS SHINS PART 1 SHINS PART 2 BELT BOXES PART 1 BELT BOXES PART 2 BELT POUCHES PART 1 BELT POUCHES PART 2 BELT ASSEMBLY ANKLE SPATS PART 1 ANKLE SPATS PART 2 GASKETS PART 1 GASKETS PART 2 LEGS ASSEMBLY COMPLETED PHOTOS SUITED UP PHOTOS CRL CLARIFICATIONS THIGHS AND BICEPS INNER SEAM OVERLAP

Thank you

Did a full armour put on with the shims this is how it looks. Strapping on one side of my chest plate needs to be replaced what is making one side go up more then the other. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You've got them paired up wrong. You have two outer parts together and two inner parts together.

http:// Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.sportscard.trade Another small mod to the forearms, first time using a different image coder please let me know if it can’t be seen.

Calves are measured up there is an overlap of about 12mm on each leg, so that will allow me to trim enough to get the 20mm cover strip positioned well. Going to save thighs to the armour party as may be able to taper back of thigh to narrow near knee. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome Jasper, looking forward to watching your progression.

Great news trooper, looking forward to seeing you with TKID, once approved you can request higher access here

I received my Garrison Approval today! Just waiting on my Legion ID! Thank you everyone for your help!

Hi Thomas, Take a look to this building thread, I think it can be si usefull . Cheers

Using a long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help get trim lines straighter, very handing when cutting long pieces such as thighs, shins etc I've not had a lot to do with AM so never noticed the width before. Also pays to have a look through other AM centurion build threads to see what has passed previously, here is one of the last

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Great work Jasper! Knowing you this kit will be nailed in no time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice work looking forward to the progress. FYI the TFA CRL went under an updated only a few months ago so shouldn't change. TLJ will be undergoing some updates in the next few months. Good luck with the build

In addition to subtle weathering, something you might consider is applying various shades and sheens of paint. This can make the prop look more realistic when the individual components work together. Using real fasteners can also add realism to the prop. For my resin build I used a variety of techniques and paints.

Yeah, but, add 30% for us Canadian...I'm trying to avoid over paying loll. Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk