Leaderboard

No problem! I'll get on that asap

@TheSwede - It's pretty hard to photograph and the paint is definitely on the dark side (see what I did there?) to match the darker blue tube stripes included with the AM kit, but it's Humbrol blue and Admiralty Grey. Hope this helps!

Thanks. PLA is pretty lightweight so it's comfortable, it's also decently strong and aluminium pipes give it a solid frame, but if you bump it a lot it may be a little more prone to denting than solid resin. And I'm surely gonna bump it, giving how big it is Thanks brothers!

Hi bros, I bought a DLT-19 3dprinted kits from 3DpropsNL on Etsy last october, and finally managed to complete building&customizing&painting. First of all the kit, it came sorta like that (more red than black on mine): The kit is solid (two aluminium pipes inside) and surprisingly lightweight. Phase one was of course heavy sanding and glueing. I decided to keep it one piece to avoid paint scratching on connecting parts. (sanded parts are matte, unsanded are gloss) Phase two was the fun part: looking at tons of reference pics, I found out that the kit, although very detailed, is missing some stuff here and there; so I decided to add some details using some techniques I learned from the E-11 build. Some knurled patterns in a couple of strategic spots: A fatter, knurled handgrip: Viewfinder details: Another pattern for the bottom lever: Replaced both printed flaps with two plastic pieces, screwed directly to the pipe: Added a small tab and other details to the ammo load: Replaced the plastic tip of the locking stud with a long screw (secured into the pipe), adding a sculpted tip (that's for folded bipod stability): Carved the butt stock, adding pattern and a big screw: I also replaced the incorrect socket caps screws with flat ones neext to the handle and replaced all the moveable parts pins with headless allen screws. Phase three was a couple of layers of filler/primer: and a generous amount of gunmetal paint for the main gun, brown for the butt stock: Phase four was final assembly of remaining parts: Folded bipod was permanently glued to its locking stud: Flat black handle was added (also using headless allen screws, to be covered with round caps for accuracy): An accurate two pieces metal cover, painted flat black, was added to the ammo exit port: Phase five was final touch-ups with slight sanding overall, different shades of metal paint: Some good old rusty effect (also covering up for potential paint chip revealing the orange below): Accurate heavy weathering on the metal cover and round disc: Accurate round covers for the handle screws: And some brown patterns on the butt stock trying to simulate bakelite: Last but not least, I replaced the t-tracks that came with the kit with flat black PVC ones from Super6props, accurately shaped with knife: So here's the final result: I'm still undecided if I need the accurate (was it accurate for all used DLT-19?) metal wire around the t-tracks.

Mandatory Information Name = Max P. TKID = 42199 Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=30527 Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Forum Name = mpedno Armor = AM Armor Helmet = AM 4.5 Blaster = Hyperfirm Optional Information Height = 6'1 Weight = 185 Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = Imperial Issue Neck Seal = Darman Props Holster = Darman Props Application Photos Armor Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Helmet Detail Photos Front Left Side Right Side Back Interior S-trim Detail Hovi Tip Detail Lens Color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Belt Detail Holster Attachment Neckseal Gloves Blaster left side Blaster right side Blaster D-Ring Thermal Detonator Back Boots Action Shot Optional Interior Strapping Right Side ("Han") Snap Detail Left Side Rivet and Kidney Notch Detail Abdomen Detail Cod Attachment Detail Sniper Knee Attachment (glue) Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment (rivets) Shoulder Bridge Attachment Detail Thank you!

Ab buttons were painted with the older-style Humbrol 14 French Blue, not the lighter Testors/Model Master. It was an older can too, so it looks pretty dark with the lighting is all, I think. I think Max is gonna try to take a better-lit photo for ya soon.

Hey buddy, thank you and I just checked and they seem to be fine. Thank you. I will upload that photo as well of the snaps. Thank you very much for everything

Good Luck Pam great build !!!

Ah, never mind. It’s not too tricky to swap. It could have been worse. ;-) Looking great, btw. That Centurion badge is calling. [emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji2956]

Nice work, Pam. :-) Just a little something that might get flagged by the D.O. team - your left shin appears to be overlapping from the wrong side. The shins should overlap from the outside over inside. Should be quite a quick fix. [emoji1303] Best of luck with approval. :-) Dan

Lol thanks!!

I didnt even notice it on mine either until my application. Super easy thing

Nope. The end result has the Aker hanging pretty much right where it would have been mounted in the Chest Plate, so I wouldn't expect any more or less feedback than mounting it in the chest.

OP updated again! You're very thorough, @TheSwede

Found it! Lol Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Hi Malcolm, No that should be good. We'll be with you soon. Thanks!

Just an FYI and something cannot be seen from the pics. WTF shoulder bells are not interchangable (unless something changed with the molds) There is a small swoop on the bottom of them that indicates which side is which. It got called out on my centurion app, so just wanted to share it with you. Everything else looks amazing!

Ok, wasn’t sure how much of that return edge I needed to keep for accuracy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi again Pam - looking good I need you to include a link to your EIB application, also, I´m currently in progress reviewing 2 other applications but I´ll be with you as soon as possible

Good luck Pam, you look great Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fantastic job on your build Pam, good luck

Left side

Thanks. I see you're in Pitt Meadows. Cool! Great to know there's someone nearby.

How much of this can I cut off? And is this the correct amount to cut off the cod?

Here’s a few pictures of what the kit entails. I’m stilling finishing up my RS armor & the helmet arrived a few days ago, so I likely won’t get started on the R1 for a few weeks. 3D printed parts: Some parts are familiar, others not so much. The squares aren’t obvious to me. The arms and legs for the most part look like mirror images and are symmetrical. Thickness difference in the shin halves. Biceps in the foreground, shins and one set of thighs in the back, some hand guards, and 1 of 2 I don’t knows. And some boots I got from Groupon for $15. Obviously they need to be dyed, and a zipper added for Centurion, but for the price failure is an option.

Thanks! The glazing putty Im using (Evercoat Polyflex 411 is specifically designed for flexible material applications and is rated to bend 70°+ at 1/4" thickness . It is amazing stuff

If you can afford RS I'd go for that being it's one, if not the most accurate ANH kit available. Anovos delivery is spotty and unpredictable at best and the details have already been discussed above. ATA detail is not at accurate or sharp as RS but it's half the price. I own a set and love it.

Hi gang; guess who? Yeah, still tweaking my build thread as much as I'm tweaking my armor. Just did my 5th troop last week, and it was a blast. Not only was it a fun outdoor event with absolutely perfect weather, but it was the first time I used a sound system. Up till now, I've eschewed adding sound mainly because I wanted to focus on the armor itself in my first troops. Concentrating on walking without falling down, not trampling small children, and making sure all the armor stays where it's supposed to has been top-of-mind for me, and I didn't want any distractions caused by worrying about sounding good. I've had my sound gear for more than a year (got it way back during the build), and it consists of an Aker 1506 and an iPod with the outstanding TrooperTalk app installed. And, since I've had everything for so long I've had a lot of time to think about how I wanted to implement it. I didn't like the idea of mounting it into the armor itself, as I wanted to be able to adjust the sound and get it perfect before getting the armor on, so I finally decided to use a neck-hanging system. Here's what I came up with: I picked up some black plastic mesh at the craft store (the kind used for stitched needlepoint, or whatever it's called), and cut it to size to accommodate the Aker amp at the top, and an inexpensive folding iPod wallet at the bottom. The wallet is very thin, not bulky at all, but has slots for my driver's license and a bit of cash. The wallet folds closed with a magnetic tab. You can find the wallet here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NY2G8S1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I attached both the Aker amp and the wallet to the plastic mesh with E6000 slathered on the back of each, then just weighted them down on the mesh till dry. Then I just corralled all the wiring, folded it neatly, and bundled it into place with twist-ties along one edge of the mesh. The neck strap is the same one that came with the Aker amp, but I disconnected it from the amp and reattached it to the top corners of the mesh. It took some trial and error to adjust the strap to get everything to hang at the optimum level, but the neck strap is easy to adjust. The system worked perfectly on its first troop, and I found that the hanging system is fairly easy to reach inside and adjust by just leaning to one side so that it hangs closer to the side opening of the chest plate, allowing me to reach in and adjust as needed. The volume wheel on the Aker is at the top right (as you're wearing it), so all it really takes is reaching a finger in to adjust the volume level. A.J.

More progress! The shins are sized, trimmed, and final gluing! This is where it got wonky. I don’t have a whole lot of in-progress photos, because I was focused elsewhere. Mainly trying to understand what was going on and what Johnny was doing when explaining how to trim and trimming. I got to the point where I intellectually understood what was going on, but could I explain it, or write it out? Nope. Basically this is a kit-specific thing. KB’s shins and thighs are straight lines/connections, while aNOvos and the CRL aren’t a straight join, they have a curve to them. Examples: CRL, which matches the aNOvos FOTK I have as reference: KB thighs (I don’t have a before picture of the shins, but it was the same thing just in a different part): And yes, the KB back thigh is just a straight half circle/tube, with no cut down for where your butt would be. More on that later. I did an image search and didn’t find any good shots of the outer thighs on any movie shots, or even any other approved 501st Phasmas. So I just looked at my Black Series figure, because they’re known for being at least decent in accuracy, even if a toy. There’s definitely a curve on the thigh: The deeper shin curve is on the inside, not the outside like the thigh, so definitely no pictures of that one that were easy to find. And the Black Series looked kinda straight. It is basically the same curve. The other half is then just the opposite, so they fit together nicely. The outside seems more relaxed but I still see a curve in the CRL photos. What Johnny did, and then what I attempted to do based on that, was take all the measurements of different points of Izzy’s FOTK I have as reference, and then use those measurements to plot the curve on my pieces. Johnny was the true mastermind there- I basically started and tried to understand and then used his template for the remaining thigh piece we didn’t get to that night. I realize that helps no one without an FOTK lying around for visuals and physical measurements. Have I told Izzy lately thank you for letting me borrow his FOTK? I should do it again. I will also say that his aNOvos is a first wave or maybe the first of the B wave they did, so I have no idea if they’ve changed their design since. Oh wait no one who’s ordered has received anything so we don’t know the answer to that. I don’t actually know if doing a straight line would affect approval. I’d defer to the appropriate GML, of course, but the CRL text doesn’t indicate it, but the photos clearly do. And the approval is based on the combo of the text and photos. I suppose without a physical reference I’d just wing it and lightly sketch the curve on the parts until you like it and then cut. It is a bit subtle. I’m also not very good at winging it, but I’ve gotten better at it the more kits I build and help build. Pretty sure we’ve winged just about everything on the WTF Inferno TIE I’m helping a friend build (don’t even get me started). But back to that wonky thigh back with no cut out for human butts. I’m going to use both my OT TK and Izzy’s FOTK to get an idea of where to trim, and then hold it up to myself and see what works. I’m really not sure what was up with that, it’s very obviously not another piece, it is the back of the thigh. The front had the dip for the inner leg. I also have a V1 KB, and Johnny had a V2, and I think they’re on V3, now. So maybe all of the above is fixed/makes more sense now. I sat down to do the second thigh, and just couldn’t wrap my mind around how to even use the template. I got frustrated, and kept asking myself why every step of this was so hard. I’ve knocked out a bunch of other projects and little things in between working on this and this kit just keeps fighting me at every turn. Thankfully Johnny was able to come by and help me out and it’s now done and gluing. The first thigh is final gluing and the second will have its full closure gluing done in the next few days. The backs aren’t totally trimmed but will be easier to work with once assembled, so I can slip them on and adjust as necessary. Did I mention it’s also 100+ degrees here, and we’ve been in an excessive heat warning for the last three days, though at least tomorrow? The garage and the outside are rough to work in right now. (Arizonans shush, I know, it could be worse, and it will get worse here, though not quite like you poor smucks). Anyway… As far as chroming goes: I got ahold of my uncle and he has two possibilities for me, one guy who’s the best in town but pricey, and one guy who’s great and the bang-for-buck guy, but referral only. Thankfully I have a referral. I contacted him and he’s supposed to get back to me with some paint costs. I have a feeling he’s not going to be the one- he’s not a cosplay guy, he doesn’t know quite what I’m asking of him. I did end up with two extra leads, though- one is another local guy, who has (per a Yelp review I found) done Cosplay paint work before, and he’s more than happy to take a look at it and give me a quote. We’ll be meeting sometimes next week. A third option is Chrome Factory LV out of Las Vegas (https://www.chromefactorylv.com/), which Johnny found via Instagram. Their work is beautiful, and I do know an approximate cost. Basically on cost… I’m torn, frustrated, and afraid. I finally sat down with myself and thought it out, and I came up with this plan: If I can get it chromed for $1k, I will be ecstatic. I’m willing to go up to $1.5k, and still feel okay. If that just isn’t feasible or realistic, I will consider $2k, but I will have to think long and hard about it. But anything about that and I simply can’t justify it and can’t afford it (someday, but not in the next while, and especially not if I even want to think about Celebration Anaheim). I’m already afraid I won’t be able to afford the $1k - $1.5k, and am working through ever scenario I can to make it work, and on the timeline I still desperately want to stick to. The worst-case scenario is I don’t get it done in time for the premiere. Not disastrous, I suppose, but I need to strike while the iron is hot, and I’m afraid that if she doesn’t show up in this new movie, then the public will have lost interest in her. I am doing the costume for myself, and for my love of Gwendoline Christie, and all the character should have been, but I have trouble justifying it if the public isn’t also into it. I’m feeling the monetary crunch and that just kills me on a good day. I normally don’t talk specific monetary details, unless one-to-one, and generally when someone is already started or very serious about a costume, but it’s a hang-up point for me on this one, and I do think it is important for other potential Phasmas to know the possibilities and the realities, and if they can or still want to pursue her. I feel the need to be brutally honest about my experiances with this build because sugar coating it won’t help me and could set someone else up in the future for a real shock and I don’t want to do that. Money is just such an awkward topic (maybe if it weren’t people would have less problems with it). I have about $1k into her currently, so even if I dropped $1.5k on chroming, that’d still be a reasonable and even cheap Phasma. Thankfully I only have minor expenses left other than chroming (final balance of cape, I have the misc. supplies already just in my stash), so that end is in sight. I firmly believe she will be worth every penny. For my blasters, I ordered Alclad II in chrome and pale gold- I’m going to mix the two to get that champagne color for her blasters. Or maybe I’ll get lucky and the pale gold will mimic it well and I won’t need the other. Based on photos I think it needs a mix, but maybe in person it will be different. We’ll see. I did get an airbrush with compressor kit for my birthday, so we’re in good shape there! I also did a bunch of clean up work on the helmet. It needs quite a bit more, but it is cleaning up better than I expected. Tiny Dremel bits used by hand to get in those grooves, wet 1000 grit sandpaper for the ridges, more Dremel work for some of the extra mold bits, and we’re getting somewhere. Basically, what I decided while working on it, however, is that I will never be totally happy with it. I can’t get it out of my head I’m convinced it’s a B Grade. I ordered a Tripon which should be here in 3 – 4 weeks. The nose cone isn’t separate like Thorrson’s, but hell, I’m not painting the thing most likely, so it’s someone else’s problem. I’m going to keep this one and try and clean it up the best I can, but it will be converted to the broken one from TLJ. (Dumb, nothing made out of a spaceship should crack that easy, but hero v. villain and we all know how that ends in Hollywood). It will be an awesome table prop and show piece. To save on costs, I will chrome it myself with the Alclad since it’s just a prop piece and won’t have the wear-and-tear of use like the main one will. The 3 – 4 week plan will hopefully keep me motivated to finish everything else by then, so then I can just finish the new helmet and send it all for chroming. If I can get this to chroming in July, then I’ll still have four and a half months before the premiere to wrap everything up. I really do think once the chroming is done, the rest is assembly and strapping, which I can start now, but not glue in, and anyway that part is the quick easy part anyway. I’d love to be able to have the funds to chrome her by July, but if I have to wait another month, then I’ll still have enough time to make it to the finish line before the premiere. Updated list of completed/nearly completed/needing to be finished: Still needing finishing finesse and greeblies, etc.: Chest plate Back/yoke Biceps Forearms Boot spats Shoulder bells Cod piece Butt plate Knee plates Hand plates Up next: Secondary hand plates- received from KB, just need some trimming Attach all greeblies/boxes (forearms, thighs, shins) Clean up 3D print lines from blasters 1st Helmet: more sanding and clean up 2nd Helmet: sanding and prep once received Maybe finish/assemble thermal detonator. Still on the fence about it. More likely than not going to skip it to try and keep costs down as much as possible. Work up connections so they’re ready to install I’m going to have to get a taped up shot of everything on and roughly in place to show off. I'm also hopeful this will help with my motivation and my desire to keep going. I have all the desire for a finished Phasma of my own. I have much less desire to keep going to do the work necessary to get to that point.