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Finished

So, I finally put together my power cylinders - pleased with the results - not absolutely super-perfectly accurate, but closer than the Doopy's standard resin kit versions and cleaner and sharper... 3D-printed capacitors - small snips of staple wire glued in place for the connection wires 3D-printed end caps (couldn't find anything in the workshop or online that I could easily adapt to get more accuracy), a bit of aluminium tubing inside the brass tubing for the 'cores' Kept the red wiring super-simple as per Tino's guide - too fiddly to try and make it 1000% accurate Used offcuts of brass tubing for the resistors, filled the ends with super glue and sanded them flat Then it was time to drill and test-fit the scope rail and see how everything lines up: Determined to make sure I stay patient and layer up the paint over the next few days, so here's everything hit with a coat of filler primer. Tomorrow, a coat of grey primer, then wait a day, then it's silver, then two days for that to degass, etc., etc...

Thanks for all the feed back. I have removed the paint on the frown that was not on the teeth. I have also include photos of the sniper knee, the thigh ammo strip, back/check armor connection and the shoulder bridges. Here is the link of the additional photos: https://imgur.com/a/kHCE5r6 Thanks again for the feedback and please let me know if any additional changes are needed.

I like the big wheels of my Husky case, even though it's heavy. For troops where I can't fit my bin (very rare), I generally just opt for a simpler costume, rather than messing with repacking everything. It's easy to toss everything into the 50gal Husky bin, including extras, a substantial repair kit, helmet, etc... I could fit even more if I left out the padding, but there's really no need with a bin this size. I experimented with a lot of packing options, but have settled on this as the best comprise among ease of packing (with minimal disassembly), protection of the armor (I have 1/4" sheets of foam between each layer, and wanted to be extremely protective of the shoulder bridges so they're not under any strain), and fitting everything I need in there. Bottom layers: main clamshell halves, offset for betting protection of the shoulder bridges (also boots in the corners, not pictured) Next layers: Thighs, shins, arms, etc, all nested: Next layers: Pretty much everything else, including helmet: There's even room for a (plastic) mirror mounted in the lid! Super handy.

This is really a hack for people who already have a helmet and are working on the next one. If you already have a helmet and are pleased with the way the ears look (even if there is still a gap), your next set of ears can come ridiculously close to perfect! 1. Tear a wide sheet of aluminum foil about square. Fold it several times (for rigidity) until it is a little larger than an ear cover with good margins. 2. Press the foil tightly around the ear cover on the existing helmet. Capture as much of the detail as possible, as this serves to index the position of the foil template on the new ear cover. 3. Take a narrow implement with a straight edge and really press the foil to the edges of the ear cover that mate with the helmet. Be careful not to tear or puncture the foil. The curve at the cheek tube may require a little extra persuasion to conform completely. 4. Press and shape a second time to ensure the foil did not shift. 5. Carefully remove the foil from the helmet and place it over the new ear cover. 6. Trace the trim line. 7. Be conservative and trim close to the outside of the line first. Make small adjustments as needed. 8. Rinse and repeat with the other side. 9. You should have little to no gap with the new set of ears. 10. You're welcome!

i want to thank the Star Garrison and the Imperial Rough Riders Squad for helping me get to this point

I have only been stopped by the police once, (at a police sponsored event, actually). They wanted to check out my T-21 not for security, but because they thought it was cool. They got a kick out of the fact that it is made from rubber, and got a laugh when I reminded them that even if it were real, Stormtroopers are not known for their accuracy.

I was hoping you’d mention primer! I’ve got that from my e11 rubies conversion project.

I was actually able to. Granted I got a hand from a near by Mando. I move pretty well for an Old Man in Armor

These are all great suggestions! I will have to try them out next weekend. Been very busy with a summer class that is going on right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work so far! Happy to see that more blaster builds are coming up with mods ! :-) Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Hey gmr, I should have elaborated. The clips on my pictured TD are the SDS supplied ones. That's how it was delivered. I have an unbent piece of aluminum that will replace those The Velcro is the SDS supplied stuff as well. That has already been taken off. I haven't had a chance to hit the fabric store to get the white webbing for the drop boxes or shoulder strap. To confirm: The original drop boxes used loops that went around the belt, but then they were glued down. Right? I've separated the two ABS belt pieces (ammo portion and the wrap around). I now have a good piece of ABS to attempt my first cover strips. The rivets that SDS used were a bit of a pain to drill / cut out... The 3 tab buttons were a little rough from SDS. They had sharp corners and weren't cut very straight. I just cleaned them up a bit. Belt snaps I was just looking up the measurements on another forum (Ukswaths build) before adding: a) the female snaps on the fabric that attach belt to ab b) The Chicago screws I am using to attach ammo belt to fabric,

I've found a thinner magnet from another hard disk drive (before 2 mm -> now 1 mm). Almost invisible and still very strong.

Loctite superglue

As for rivets and other hardware, many (if not most) armorers include it, but if you are aiming for the higher levels, some makers send the correct hardware, some do not. Once you get your kit you can compare what is sent to the photos in my Supply List thread. If you need any replacements I sell all those items at my cost, and if you need more that one type of item I give a big discount on shipping.

I use yellow foam a lot softer than most, 2 x 2 inch pieces, one on ether side of the head and a 1/2 inch piece in the shape of a clover leaf for the top similar to original helmets. If you do a forum or google search you will find lots of different ways people have padded helmets https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37272-helmet-padding-options/?tab=comments#comment-494153 https://www.google.com.au/search?q=stormtrooper+helmet+padding&client=safari&hl=en-au&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwimmPilm4PfAhUSfisKHUDRDbIQ_AUoAXoECBIQAQ&biw=768&bih=922

Definitely ok. I recommend it instead of pop rivets, because then you can swap the belt easier.

So many different ways to make snap plates, ABS plastic or nylon webbing, really depends what you have available. ABS plates will need to be heated and bent to the contours of the armor where nylon webbing doesn't. I do like using a soldering iron to make the hole in the nylon webbing as it seals and doesn't allow the snap to pull through Snaps different ways thread here Also this great thread here from Joseph Also I suggest using double snaps on the plates, for just in case one pops off you have a spare

I used some contact sheet, not sure what it’s called in US but it’s thin plastic sticky backed sheeting used for covering school books. Just used a hole punch to get the circle, stuck a piece around each button, painted thin coat of white first to prevent colour bleed under any edges, then applied two thin coats of the grey and blue. I find my hands aren’t as steady as they used to be to freehand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007G8VHEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078S7R8GB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Would these work? The shirt's stitching is way more noticeable in person than it looks online.