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Welcome back, Mark! Those should be fine, and it was wise to post up a photo before gluing them but it would help to have a pic of how they look on the raised plates of the ab. You did a great job making sure the corners are square instead of round, but note that ideally the edges of both should stay inside those raised areas, preferably with a slight space around them. Keep up the great work and keep those photos coming!

Hi Linz, Thanks for your application and thank you for making the corrections as well as posting the additional photos! You've done an incredible job fitting your armor to you (you are over a foot taller than I am!) and it's clear you have done your research. CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to the Expert Infantry rank! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Starting from the top, just a few details with your helmet that will make it look like you walked right off the movie set. Your vocoder paint could be sharpened up to better match the screen-used helmets, and there is one area where the paint leaves the raised plastic area, so we're suggesting you clean that up. Additionally, I can see that you've painted the inside of your hovi tips white, but for that extra bit of accuracy, you can put a bit of white paint on the rims as well. Reference Images: Continuing with your helmet, most ANH helmets tended have their ears follow the rear edge of the helmet trap, while yours are sitting a bit too far forward and a bit too vertically. While it's certainly not an easy adjustment, if you're up for the challenge, you could try adjusting their position. Reference Images: Next, the borders of your decals look quite thick when compared to screen-used helmets. We're suggesting you find decals with thinner borders, or for ultimate accuracy, hand paint them. I found the technique in this thread of laying down the black first and then overlaying the grey worked really well. Reference Images: . Finally, a very minor detail is that the tube stripes should lean towards the front of the helmet, not the rear: Reference Image: Moving along, as I mentioned you've done a great job fitting your armor to you. Ideally we want to see minimal black between armor pieces, but for a trooper your size where gaps are inevitable, it does clean up the look to at least even out the gaps. Your forearms are sitting a bit low and nearly touching your hand plates, so you might consider barely shortening the strapping between your biceps and forearms. Additionally, the black between the ab pieces and upper thighs looks great, but it leaves quite a large gap between the thighs and shins, so you could also try dropping the thigh pieces just a half inch or so if it doesn't affect your mobility. Reference Images: Continuing on, just a small nitpick with your belt. I'm not exactly sure how you have the plastic of your belt attached to the cloth, but the plastic seems to want to pull away from the cloth belt. There's no requirements for how it's actually attached, but normally the ends of the plastic are riveted to the cloth, which help keep them close. In your case from the photo of the inside of your belt it doesn't look like that's the case, so you could consider adding some sort of fastener like a rivet, or in my case I prefer Chicago screws so that the belt is easier to disassemble if necessary. Reference Image: Moving to the rear, just pointing out a small dressing issue: your TD is sitting quite high on your belt. Next time you're at a troop, just have a handler take a quick peak to make sure it's sitting securely on your belt. Reference Image: Finally, just the smallest of details: there is a slight gap in the bottom ridge of your left thigh piece. It actually looks like you've already backed most of the gap with a square of ABS, so it looks like you just have to include the return edge. Reference Image: Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The L3 CRL states: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. The gap when viewed from the rear actually looks pretty good, but you have a larger gap in the front. Some things you can do are: shorten the elastic connecting the shoulder bells to the white shoulder elastic or even reposition the snap holding them on, making sure there is no return edge on the bottom of the shoulder bells, rotating the bells forward to even out the back/front gap, or even relaxing your posture when your photos are taken. Reference Images: Congratulations again, and we'll see you at Centurion! Get out there and make us proud!

This is a warning for those looking to purchase from Diversity Props. There are numerous people in a kit collectors group on facebook reporting of unanswered communication attempts with Diversity Props. Some are saying Wayne has gone out of business, some get the "its almost done" bit and then nothing more, and a few having difficulties getting a refund, having to go through paypal by filing a claim. If you currently have a kit on order, I recommend attempting to contact him to get a firm update on your kits status. If you are thinking of purchasing a kit from them, make sure you have solid communication with them before attempting to purchase, and when using paypal, make sure that there is a fee for good and services, in the event you may need a refund. There may be a reason why Wayne is unavailable right now, and hopefully that is rectified quickly. Please note, this is not an attempt to slander Wayne or Diversity Props, but merely a warning to those who are financially involved and may be at risk. I hope that whatever is going on gets fixed asap, so I can delete this post, and the membership can continue to have a trusted armor supplier.

Big Brown Box day! Helmet assembled and working on paint. Suggestions and tips much appreciated! Whats the best best place to start strapping and glueing? My photos so far: https://photos.app.goo.gl/97ayAhPF38Ser53M8 imgur: http://imgur.com/a/n36IFZH

The display I saw had seams at the shoulders and at the side Ab, so yes this armor would not be 501st approvable in its current assembled state. Keep in mind not everyone that buys a costume wants to be apart of club, or even wear it. That said I'd imagine neither Disney, LFL or Anovos are too concerned about 501st requirements.

Think I’ll stick with my contact lenses. Just out of curiosity, where does all this fit exactly?

Thank you Tony. Appreciate it sir and honored to be with you guys.

Congratulations Ardeshir, great job.

After a pause for over 2 months I’m back. So hopefully I can make a dint in the build. Tidied up the buttons today? Passable? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations Ardeshir, welcome to EIB

Congratulations Linz, welcome to the rank

Many congratulations, Linz. :-)

Congratulations trooper, Welcome to EIB.

Galaxies Edge has mine lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UPDATE: First place! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations and welcome to ranks of Centurion!

After reducing the size of the biceps, I found that they looked too small in relation to the forearms. I've taken them apart again and opened up the bottoms a little bit where they meet the forearms. I'll have to fill a little on the inside, but that won't be noticeable. I'm trying to meet the requirements for the new Centurion CRL. I figure I might as well try and get it right now rather than have to make modifications later.

Thank you everyone! Since the last post I've accomplished tow projects. First is the Husky Storage bin. It was time to move the kit from the BBB and into its new home. Here is the before and after pictures. Yuu can barely see the top of one of cat's head next to the bin on the far right. Open box seems to be an invite to them! Found this foam at Wal-Mart. Depending on how much space is available once the kit is trimmed, I am considering adding another 1/2 inch of foam on the bottom. The fabric came from Jo-Anns Fabric (3 1/2 yards long for those like me who are fabric shopping challenged). After measuring the interior we (my daughter is my official build-assistant) cut the foam to fit. In hindsight, cutting foam with a retractable razor on your dining room table is not smart. After a small cut line on the table, all work shifted to my portable workbench! We then used the foam to cut the fabric to size. The Fabric was attached to the foam using spray adhesive (see below picture). This was bought at Wal-Mart. Cost less there than the fabric store. It starts drying quickly so had to spray over the foam surface and then we placed the fabric on the foam holding it tight and then smoothing out wrinkles. You definitely need to do this outside as the spray makes everything it touches tacky, plus has a somewhat strong odor. Attached velcro to the back of the foam on all four corners. The top, and front/back sides also have velcro in the middle along the top edge and bottom edge due to the overall length. Here is the final product. And with the tool box (soft goods holder) inserted. All in all rather happy with how this turned out!